Author Topic: Milling 1.6 Hydro Head  (Read 5287 times)

Reply #15April 03, 2011, 01:04:17 pm

RustyCaddy

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Re: Milling 1.6 Hydro Head
« Reply #15 on: April 03, 2011, 01:04:17 pm »
Quote
If  a nickel goes in there, you might  possibly have a problem, but  equally well might not.

 :o

Woow... that is a big gap.  Thanks, guess it is worth tearing down and having a pressure test on the head with "only" a dime sized
crack

 ;)

Thanks

Reply #16April 03, 2011, 09:34:14 pm

fatmobile

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Re: Milling 1.6 Hydro Head
« Reply #16 on: April 03, 2011, 09:34:14 pm »
I'm building a 1.6NA that was overheated. The head has no cracks, but I could pull an .011" feeler gauge out when I straight edged it.
Is there a special milling process due to the pre-chamber inserts? Also, the original head gasket was a three hole. Will milling the head necessitate a different head gasket thickness or can I go back with a three hole gasket?
I'm going to plastiguage the cam tomorrow to check for journal warpage.

 Hard to believe it was warped that much and didn't have cracks between the valves.
 There's a local place that has bent a head straight and line bored it,.. before I sent it to be rebuilt.
Tornado red, '91 Golf 4 door, with M-TDI 12mm pump, south bend clutch, VNT-15 turbo, 02A trany
MK4s: 2000 TDI jetta, 2003 TDI wagon, 2000 golf 2.0 gasser.
'84 Rabbit with 1.7TD KY block pistons bored to 80mm, VNT-15
'84 GTI with stock 1.6TD starion intercooler.

Reply #17April 04, 2011, 01:11:58 am

745 turbogreasel

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Re: Milling 1.6 Hydro Head
« Reply #17 on: April 04, 2011, 01:11:58 am »
The amount you mill off will not affect the head gasket thickness. It's determined by the amount the pistons project above the block. But, I would measure it to be sure. There are too many people out there with that same misconception (milled head=thicker gasket), to be sure that the gasket you pulled is correct for the block.

Yep, I got one from VW with a too thick gasket.  It runs sooo much better now.

Reply #18April 04, 2011, 01:37:49 pm

Jory

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Re: Milling 1.6 Hydro Head
« Reply #18 on: April 04, 2011, 01:37:49 pm »
Probably not a bad idea. I wouldn't junk the head. Anything can be fixed with the right knowledge, tools and/or money. But yeah, it would probably run about $400+ in work to get that head right again.

That's my thinking. Having the head straightened, milled, align bored, and custom cam bearings fitted would be pricey.
I'll be grinding the valves and seats and knurling and reaming the guides myself.

Hard to believe it was warped that much and didn't have cracks between the valves.
I thought the same thing... strange.