Author Topic: Cylinder Head  (Read 9908 times)

Reply #15April 08, 2010, 09:08:39 pm

theman53

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Re: Cylinder Head
« Reply #15 on: April 08, 2010, 09:08:39 pm »
I would imagine that the head is flat, so to get the notch you need you would just measure piston protrusion. It was flat from the factory, now it is just .008" closer, but still flat and needs the quench.

Reply #16April 08, 2010, 09:11:14 pm

Vincent Waldon

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Re: Cylinder Head
« Reply #16 on: April 08, 2010, 09:11:14 pm »
Yup, head gasket thickness is determined by measuring piston protrusion... shaving the head don't factor into it. ;)
Vince

Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
2001 silver TDI Jetta Malone Stage 1.5 , 2001 blue TDI Jetta SBIII 216s Malone Stage 3, 1970 Bay Window bus

Gone but not forgotten: 1969/1971 Beetles, 1969/1974 Westies, 1979 Rabbit, 1986 TD Jetta, 1992 gas Jetta, 1994 TD Jetta

Reply #17April 08, 2010, 10:09:23 pm

ffgb

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Re: Cylinder Head
« Reply #17 on: April 08, 2010, 10:09:23 pm »
cool-thanks

Reply #18April 09, 2010, 03:21:04 am

sdwarf36

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Re: Cylinder Head
« Reply #18 on: April 09, 2010, 03:21:04 am »
I took a 3 holer off-and put a 3 holler back on. Like was said-its the pertrusion.
 One reason why a machinist would suggest a thicker gasket is: unless there is a spec for head thickness, (most shops are members of AERA for $800 a year-one of the thing you get is access to "prosis" which list specs for 1000's of engines-sometimes there is listings for min head thickness-sometimes not-there isnt a thickness listed for our engine) is its hard to find a virgin. If you were the original owner,and you KNEW this was the head 1st time off, then it would be plenty safe to cut that .008--but how old is the head? 25 years? Has it been cut before? once? twice? Unsure? So he cut it just a little-but now the valves hit the piston--again it now HIS fault. (BEEN THERE!) So to cover his ass he suggests a thicker gasket-no power would be lost-and both you and he are happy.
91 Jetta on WVO na / td swap in progress.

 "VW happiness is having 4 working door handles."

Reply #19April 09, 2010, 06:12:33 am

sdwarf36

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Re: Cylinder Head
« Reply #19 on: April 09, 2010, 06:12:33 am »
I take back something i said--there is a thickness spec---5.238 new---min 5.215.
91 Jetta on WVO na / td swap in progress.

 "VW happiness is having 4 working door handles."

Reply #20April 09, 2010, 07:58:46 am

Vincent Waldon

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Re: Cylinder Head
« Reply #20 on: April 09, 2010, 07:58:46 am »
So he cut it just a little-but now the valves hit the piston--again it now HIS fault. (BEEN THERE!) So to cover his ass he suggests a thicker gasket-no power would be lost-and both you and he are happy.

Yup... I think that happens quite a bit.  The really thorough shop will cut the valve seats (re-sinking, if required) and valve stems by the same amount he's shaved the head... now everything is as the VW God's designed.  ;)
Vince

Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
2001 silver TDI Jetta Malone Stage 1.5 , 2001 blue TDI Jetta SBIII 216s Malone Stage 3, 1970 Bay Window bus

Gone but not forgotten: 1969/1971 Beetles, 1969/1974 Westies, 1979 Rabbit, 1986 TD Jetta, 1992 gas Jetta, 1994 TD Jetta

Reply #21April 09, 2010, 09:46:54 am

doonboggle

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Re: Cylinder Head
« Reply #21 on: April 09, 2010, 09:46:54 am »
Is it possible to plug weld (or whatever) the water flange holes in the head, and then have them redrilled and re-threaded by a machine shop?

If so, and if anyone has had something like this done by a reputable shop, who/where was the shop?
Not being versed in this, don't know how to shop the job, so one experienced would be nice to know.

TIA
doonboggle

1981 Rabbit pickup; 1.6L diesel
2006 Jetta TDI
1971 VW Karman Ghia convertible

Reply #22April 09, 2010, 09:49:01 am

sdwarf36

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Re: Cylinder Head
« Reply #22 on: April 09, 2010, 09:49:01 am »
So he cut it just a little-but now the valves hit the piston--again it now HIS fault. (BEEN THERE!) So to cover his ass he suggests a thicker gasket-no power would be lost-and both you and he are happy.

Yup... I think that happens quite a bit.  The really thorough shop will cut the valve seats (re-sinking, if required) and valve stems by the same amount he's shaved the head... now everything is as the VW God's designed.  ;)

VW-describe "really thorough"-is it the machinist does a bunch of work for free-or the "thiefin' jerk at the machine shop that tried to whack me $350 to surface my head?'  :-\

BTW-looking at the Prosis for my 82-84 CY motor--it list valve rescession at .040-.060-so you got a plenty safe range.-Mine were .045 before I started. Its probably totally against the rules  :-X-but I think i might bring it home + scan it + post up all the specs it lists.
91 Jetta on WVO na / td swap in progress.

 "VW happiness is having 4 working door handles."

Reply #23April 11, 2010, 09:36:27 pm

ffgb

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Re: Cylinder Head
« Reply #23 on: April 11, 2010, 09:36:27 pm »
Hey Chris, you said Rimco shaved your cylinder head.  After all that material was removed, did you see any cracks in your PC's.  Did you have any problems later down the road with your PC's.  Did them peen them or not?  I haven't picked up my head yet.  Will do that tuesday.  I know it will be nice, clean, and shiny, but should I asked him to peen the PC's if he hasn't?

Reply #24April 11, 2010, 10:33:45 pm

Luckypabst

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Re: Cylinder Head
« Reply #24 on: April 11, 2010, 10:33:45 pm »
They did not peen the chambers...
It's been a while but I seem to remember at least one crack in the face of one of the chambers which was there before the machine work.
No issues yet and I don't baby the van, other than keeping EGT limited to 1200 degrees.
Rimco didn't make any mention and I didn't think to ask but peening wouldn't hurt things. Stoning the high spots back down could cost a little bit, for the labor involved if you're not up to the task...


Chris
'82 TD Westy
'81 NA Caddy

Reply #25April 12, 2010, 12:58:25 pm

ffgb

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Re: Cylinder Head
« Reply #25 on: April 12, 2010, 12:58:25 pm »
Well, the machinist at the shop who rebuilt my head has never peened in the PC's, even though he said he was worried when resurfacing my head because in his experience, he said he had PC's fly from the resurfacing machine because they were knocked loose.  I guess I will peen them in myself.  Can someone recommend the actual tools used and angles used to peen the PC's?  Also, can someone post a pic of a finished peen on the PC's, so I know exactly where to start and finish?
Thank You