1.6 TDC and camshaft timing???

[Greenthings]

Doing a timing belt  and waterpump, gaskets, and Pump change.  Whewww

Cam locked with proper lock-plate tool... Injector pump pin installed...... At perfect, arrow point to arrow point TDC (on flywheel-not locked), Cam Lock-Plate was Firm on One side (.04-.05 feeler g.) and Loose on the other side (.07 feeler g.). From there I proceded to take off the crank pulley to remove cover, belt, and clean.... While removing crank pulley bolts.... Crank and Flywheel moved BACKWARDS of TDC approx. ( 3-4 mm )...Cam lock-plate is still tight on the same side of head after the TDC moved backwards. Looking at the cam locking plate(from the pulley end) it is the right side feeler that is still tight (Meaning it is just a little (ahead) and TDC flywheel is a little( back). What's the procedure here to getting to perfect TDC with-out CRUNCHING anything? The cam pulley is off. The belt is off. 1. Do I have to release all the CAM holders ( 1 bolt, 1 side... a little.. and big wrench a lobe backwards till the feeler gauge depths are the same...2..Can I do this with-out loosening all the cam holder bolts on one side. 3. How loose should the bolts get to move the cam( a hair-backwards) with-out disturbing the lifters. 4. What's the cam-holder bolts torque #S. 5 Am I just being a bit too anal? I know the flywheel has to move backwards a considerable amount for timing the pump with gauge, but I am concerned about the initial un-eveness at locking plate. I am wondering if things will start to crunch if I tap the crank a bit forward ( 3-4mm) now without tweaking the cam back to dead-level first. Anyone deal with this little head-ache before? 

[745 turbogreasel]

Gently by hand rotate the crank back to where the flywheel 0 mark lines up with the  transmission pointer.

[Doakster]

Did you ever loosen the cam sprocket bolt first? If not you need to break it loose, then with you cam lock tool still in place, confirm that the cam sprocket can spin freely, if it doesn't tap the back side of the sprocket with a chisel/punch to pop it loose. The cam sprocket bolt stays loose until the belt it put back on and tensioned.

What you need to do is the following: (and you don't even really need to do all this until you are ready to put the new belt on and time the pump)

1. Have the cam sprocket loose, have your cam lock tool in place when you #1 is at TDC, sounds like you already did this, shim the cam lock tool evenly if needed. I have never shimmed one, and have always has good luck on the timing.

2. Install your new belt (don't tension yet), reinstall your crank pulley and bottom cover.

3. Make sure you IP lock pin is in.

4. Rotate the motor/flywheel back to the TDC mark.

5. Now you have cam at TDC, flywheel/motor at TDC, IP at TDC.

6. Tension the new belt to spec. Tighten the cam sprocket (having the cam sprocket loose while tightening the belt allows the belt to be tensioned and any torque or rotation that wants to be transmitted into moving the motor while tensioning the belt will simply be transmitted into spinning the loose cam spocket, which doesn't matter because the cam lock tool is keeping the cam at #1 TDC )

7. Check to see if flywheel is still at TDC, it should be, if it isn't you did something wrong.

8. Remove cam lock tool and pump lock pin, then i usually rotate the motor one or two full revolutions, and back to TDC on the flywheel, check to see if you can still install your cam lock tool easily and the IP lock pin slides in, if it does you are good to go, if not something moved and you have to start the process over.

9. If you are good, now you can rotate back to TDC on the flywheel and start the IP timing procedure, which is another subject. Discussion of timing the pump can be found here.

If this is the first time for you timing a pump it might take an hour or more, after doing it a handful of times myself, i can do it in about 30mins now, not all that tough just follow the write-up or the directions in the bentley manual.

http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=28

[Doakster]

Sorry, just re-read and you said you already removed the cam pulley, no problem, put it back on when you're ready to install the belt, just rotate your flywheel back to TDC, and have your cam lock tool in at #1TDC, you don't need to be as picky about getting it as level as you are. If you need to rotate the cam by hand you do not need to loosen any cam hold down bolts, just take a large crescent wrench and go around one of the lobes of the cam with it and move the cam, you won't damage the cam at all this way, this is commonly done to hold the cam in place while removing the cam sprocket nut, it's also mentioned in the write up. After you have your belt tensioned and cam sprocket nut tight, start in on your pump timing.

Another thing to keep in mind about being "picky" is that during this entire process you are relying on visually looking at the TDC mark on the flywheel, nobody will be perfect when looking at these marks and you will still be off a little, so the few thousands that you are trying to set you cam to, doesn't make much of a difference when you think of the "calibrated eye" your using to look at the TDC mark on the flywheel.