Sorry for two posts in a row. I just got the car. I want to change the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump since the previous owner had the car for about 3 years (50k miles) and never did. The car drives fine now, so I know the timing is fine. I tried searching, but I couldn't find an answer to these questions:
1)I just want to lock the cam and pump. From what I read, I can use a piece of metal and a socket to do this. What size for each would I need? Any pics would be helpful.
2)Do I need a special tool to install or adjust the tensioner? Are there any home made solutions to this?
3)Are any special tools needed to replace the water pump?
4)Any writeups on these procedures? If so, links please.
Thanks very much in advance for any info.
Now this particular site I am about to link you to.. He is a good guy, and sells good parts that aren't big money parts. (ie. timing belts, tensioners, tools, seal kits)
He has a kit, that gets you the Pump locking tool, Cam locking Tool, Dial gauge, Tensioner, and Timing belt for $82.
I have ordered this from him before when i got my first diesel.. last fall, the kit is really good quality for the price, and includes everything needed.
People swear against supporting him, however there are tons of people who have gotten big money items from him (ie. pumps, heads, turbo's, pistons and what not) and have had zero problems with the quality of the parts. I would stray away from his big money parts unless you need them dirt cheap, and quality isn't really an issue. lol
The waterpump does not require special tools, just 3 nuts and a bolt mount it. However it is tough to reach as it is below the IP on the diesel. Also you have to take off the alternator and AC compressor (if you have AC) to get to it. Typically you replace the only the impeller not the housing and there is a gasket between them, which will have a different number of holes depending on your pump I believe it is 8 or 9. So you need to count. Go ahead and do a new Thermostat and replace its seal as well as the seal between the water pump and the block.
The reason to knock all this out is because it is a lot easier to take off your injection pump to get to it, but that means retiming it. You will need a dial indicator with an adaptor for this. Also this way you can be certain that your timing is correct.
If you have the cork valvecover gasket you will need to replace it. So don't forget to grab one.
If I were you, I would just go ahead and get a timing kit on ebay or from someone like Prothe. they are like $70USD and come with a cam-lock, a lock for the IP pulley, a spanner wrench to do the tensioner, and the dial indicator and adaptor for the pump.
As far as write-ups, I would highly recommend getting a Bentley Publishing manual ASAP it will be the best $60 dollars you spend on this car. Procedures, pictures, torque specs. Don't go cheap on this, you will regret it.
I guess if you wanted to rig it up. A 10mm deepdish would work for the IP pulley lock, and a couple inch long piece of bar stock 3/16" thick (5mm) could be used for the cam.
I hope this helps
Cheers,
Ryan
I have to disagree.
The timing kit should be fine from prothe. The timing stuff from that guy has been known to be bad. Not nessesarily the belts but many have said the tentioners have failed. Do what you want but Myke W supports this site *MOD* and sells the stuff too try here as well...
http://oak.cats.ohiou.edu/~mw105397/dubdoctor/parts_site/idiparts.htmlNOW for the part I disagree with...The water pump is horrible to do if it is original or if no one used anti-seeze on the threads if it has been replaced. The complete housing unbolts well, but the water pump to the housing is right up there to a heater core on these for me SUCKS. I usually leave them on the car and just try to get the pump itself off and that is why it is bad. When the through bolts comes off fine, but the other 8 bolts break off in the housing is when I realize I shouldn't have tried it like this again. Then I get the torch and start to heat and get the bolts out. I melted part of one of my housings torching the bolts once because it wouldn't come out until it was molten....Have fun I guess is what I am saying:D
I must have been really lucky. I have only done 2 waterpumps but not a single stripped or broken bolt. I am with you guys on pulling it from the block and working on the bench. I was just trying to save our friend a few$$ on the housing. Also I'm with you on the penetrating oil and torch. I have found it pretty necessary to do that to almost every bolt on this thing.
I just looked at the prices at Mike W's website, and they're pretty good.
Amazon will sell you a new Bentley for $32 to your door.
Check your waterpump size before ordering. All the online parts suppliers (and Pep Boys) said I needed a 30mm pump. Mine was 40mm. Not sure if mine is an early 82, but I've heard others run into the same thing.
A new housing for the pump will cost you about $30 more. I usually snap the heads off the bolts when I use handtools. The impact does a much better job, but I should heat them. Everything is reassembled with anti-sieze.
-Todd
All you guys seriously hating up on Pete Rothenbacher eh?
Haha.. Yeah I shouldn't have linked to his tensioner and belt.. but his gauge and tools are worth the money. I have successfully timed a diesel a half dozen times with them... they get the job done.
Mike W is probably the best place to go for stuff. plus a good chunk of his sales comes back to the forum
