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Engine Restore
by
dennis
on 05 Nov, 2009 17:56
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Tried a can about 200 miles ago in the Volvo 245 D24. Still burning oil but smoother (I think). Gonna put more in next time the oil level drops. Just used enough for a 4 cylinder.
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#1
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 06 Nov, 2009 11:20
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once they start burning oil, they dont stop. unless you rebuild them. does it burn a quart every 100 miles like my 2.0 TD?
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#2
by
OM617
on 06 Nov, 2009 14:05
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Oil additives should never be used. They cause more harm than benefit, especially anything with PTFE (teflon). The oil you put in the engine is already nearly 1/2 additives to begin with.
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#3
by
dennis
on 06 Nov, 2009 15:41
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Yeah I know about additives. Its just that I am milking this engine untill I get my Caddy on the road. Im planning a D24T for the Volvo. Shes showing over 230k right now with a re-build tag on the instrument cluster, (probably more) and I am commuting 180 miles a day round trip. I think I like Smoke be gone better. The tranny is making noise too. (Saw dust may help???) The body is great though. Think I'll keep it. I can make it better.
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#4
by
dennis
on 06 Nov, 2009 16:35
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once they start burning oil, they dont stop. unless you rebuild them. does it burn a quart every 100 miles like my 2.0 TD?
half a quart every 200. Some is just condensed blowby dripping out of my crankcase vent onto the intake. Takes a couple of shop towels to sopp it up.
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#5
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 07 Nov, 2009 10:16
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thats not even that bad yet dude. im surprised my audi doesnt run away with how much oil it burns. it has such bad rings that if you rod on it, to about 4000 rpms, and then let off and hold it in gear, it will make the biggest cloud of white oil smoke you have ever seen.
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#6
by
dennis
on 09 Nov, 2009 08:16
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Same here with the smoke. Seems worse some days than others. Think I'll do some work on my Caddy's down pipe today if I can getaway from the customer cars.
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#7
by
expanty09
on 30 Nov, 2009 14:16
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Anybody ever use engine restore oil in a bike with wet clutches? Im burning a little oil and dont have the cash to sping for new rings but i got 4 bucks for a can of this stuff. Just wondering if it will affect the clutches
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#8
by
clbanman
on 01 Dec, 2009 12:44
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If this stuff really worked like they say, it would still likely not "repair" the surface of your cylinder walls. The stuff gets mixed with your engine oil. Supposedly small particles get "pressed" into the grooves of your cylinder wall and restore compression.
-If the particles fill up gaps, your bearings should be the first thing that gets "restored". A small percentage of your oil hits the cylinder walls. Your piston rings act like scrapers, so I don't understand how exactly they turn into a tool to "press" the particles into the grooves.
-Most worn engines have extremely smooth cylinder walls. You see grooves once parts start to break and get between the piston/skirts and damage the cylinder walls. How does something in suspension in a can even begin to build up a coating over the entire cylinder wall? How does it compensate for out of round cylinder walls? Taper?
-The vendor focuses on "testimonials". "I put it in and I think it runs better". This is because they can't be sued or nailed for false advertising because they are just repeating what satisfied customers say.
-Note they also tell you to use at every oil change, which tends to contradict any expectation of a "repair".
I tried the product on a badly worn Ford (Mazda) 2.0 l engine. I checked compression prior to use, used as per instructions, ran for the specified length of time, and rechecked compression. No change.
I had a co-worker a few years ago who had a Cordoba that burned oil badly. He ran 50% mix of his normal motor oil and 85W-140 gear oil. The oil burning almost completely stopped. It didn't "repair' the engine though.
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#9
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 04 Dec, 2009 12:49
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thicker oil is harder to suck past the rings and valve guides.
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#10
by
8v-of-fury
on 06 Dec, 2009 22:27
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thicker oil is harder to suck past the rings and valve guides.
15w40 for my engine lol.. helps the engine to NOT puke from every orifice. lol
However I do believe Barhdals (sp?) to actually work. Oil consumption in my 90 went down almost completely. its a viscous liquid.. why not use it if it helps stop leaks? Obviously it isn't repairing the rings or valve seats.. who gives a crap though.. unless you NEED the engine to last the next 15 years.. why bother?
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#11
by
OM617
on 06 Dec, 2009 23:10
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why not use it if it helps stop leaks?
Repair fixes leaks.
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#12
by
8v-of-fury
on 06 Dec, 2009 23:13
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why not use it if it helps stop leaks?
Repair fixes leaks.
Repair is not usually a $4 bottle though. If the motor were new.. and i just invested several thousand in to it to last me.. i could understand repairing it.. and i would repair it if it was feasible.. but that $4 bottle that will lower my oil consumption over doing a bottom end.. ill take the bottle. IMHO, Time is money to me, time working on cars is time not making money at work. easier to use additives, and swap the engine when it pops. I follow the disposable way of life. lol
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#13
by
OM617
on 06 Dec, 2009 23:17
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A $4 bottle won't fix leaks. If viscosity is your goal, use 15W50 or mix gear oil with it.
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#14
by
8v-of-fury
on 06 Dec, 2009 23:18
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A $4 bottle won't fix leaks. If viscosity is your goal, use 15W50 or mix gear oil with it.
I will thank-you.
How much gear oil would you say to mix with? and what weight gear oil?