Author Topic: Clutch Replacement  (Read 2117 times)

September 01, 2009, 03:11:53 pm

Doakster

  • Veteran

  • Offline
  • ***

  • 291
Clutch Replacement
« on: September 01, 2009, 03:11:53 pm »
I'm doing a clutch replacement this weekend, anyone have any tips on transmission removal? First time for me doing a removal in an A2 chasis, I've done one in an A3

The bently manual says you have to loosen/remove all motor mounts and push engine/trans forward, this true?
1991 VW Jetta 1.6TD (Formally an ECO), Giles LDA Pump and Injectors, Techtonics 2.25" Down Pipe and Exhaust system, Rebuilt Trans with 3.94 final drive and a Peloquin Limited Slip Diff, Front H&R Sport Springs, MK4 VR6/1.8T front brakes, Single Round Headlight Conversion.

Reply #1September 01, 2009, 05:17:56 pm

sawedoffgolf

  • Junior

  • Offline
  • **

  • 213
Re: Clutch Replacement
« Reply #1 on: September 01, 2009, 05:17:56 pm »
if you have done one in a A3 its exactly the same setup in the A2 and need the same tools. ive done countless clutch jobs in gas and diesel vw's that it usually takes 45 minutes to drop the tranny/clutch.

Reply #2September 02, 2009, 04:13:41 am

Doakster

  • Veteran

  • Offline
  • ***

  • 291
Re: Clutch Replacement
« Reply #2 on: September 02, 2009, 04:13:41 am »
if you have done one in a A3 its exactly the same setup in the A2 and need the same tools. ive done countless clutch jobs in gas and diesel vw's that it usually takes 45 minutes to drop the tranny/clutch.

So do you usually push the engine toward the passenger side for clearance?
1991 VW Jetta 1.6TD (Formally an ECO), Giles LDA Pump and Injectors, Techtonics 2.25" Down Pipe and Exhaust system, Rebuilt Trans with 3.94 final drive and a Peloquin Limited Slip Diff, Front H&R Sport Springs, MK4 VR6/1.8T front brakes, Single Round Headlight Conversion.

Reply #3September 02, 2009, 07:46:27 pm

sawedoffgolf

  • Junior

  • Offline
  • **

  • 213
Re: Clutch Replacement
« Reply #3 on: September 02, 2009, 07:46:27 pm »
nope never had to, if your getting the diff housing caught on the mount/firewall area then turn the transmission counter clockwise and pull it straight off. some time it takes a bit of wrestling but ive never had to push the engine or anything, i just leave a jack under to support it.

Reply #4September 03, 2009, 04:18:48 pm

Doakster

  • Veteran

  • Offline
  • ***

  • 291
Re: Clutch Replacement
« Reply #4 on: September 03, 2009, 04:18:48 pm »
nope never had to, if your getting the diff housing caught on the mount/firewall area then turn the transmission counter clockwise and pull it straight off. some time it takes a bit of wrestling but ive never had to push the engine or anything, i just leave a jack under to support it.

Sounds straight forward, so there is enough clearance between the driver side frame for the trans to come back way from the engine and separate? it seems like there is not much clearance.

Also when you say rotate, you're talking about rotating it before you separate it from the engine, so when you do pull it way it will have enough clearance to get by the subframe/firewall, correct?
1991 VW Jetta 1.6TD (Formally an ECO), Giles LDA Pump and Injectors, Techtonics 2.25" Down Pipe and Exhaust system, Rebuilt Trans with 3.94 final drive and a Peloquin Limited Slip Diff, Front H&R Sport Springs, MK4 VR6/1.8T front brakes, Single Round Headlight Conversion.

Reply #5September 03, 2009, 05:44:14 pm

Rabbit on Roids

  • Guest
Re: Clutch Replacement
« Reply #5 on: September 03, 2009, 05:44:14 pm »
ive done a fair amount of transmission work on various FWD cars, and let me tell you what, VW's are BY FAR THE EASIEST TO WORK ON! im working on a 94 mercury topaz (50 dollar throw away car in my oppinion) right now, and let me tell you what, i will never work on another one again. and its just a "simple" job of swapping transmissions. pfft, nothing on fords is simple it seems.