Piston damage from valve contact....thoughts please

[CoolAirVw]

 Actually, the timing of both the pump and cam are infinitely adjustable and so the orientation of the crank sprocket on the crank is not important.

Actually just realizing that what Andrew said is true makes me want to just grind the Tdi slot with a dremel.  (actually I would make a jig to to get it close)

Seems like it would be real easy.

Now if only I had a 1.9 with a crank slot problem.

[zukgod1]

If you're planning on a swap anyway in the not-too-distant future and the bore came in within spec or even slightly out of spec, I'd button it up and run it.

Andrew

X2

[CoolAirVw]

If you're planning on a swap anyway in the not-too-distant future and the bore came in within spec or even slightly out of spec, I'd button it up and run it.

Andrew

My engine was running fine, with .024 clearance between the piston and cylinder wall. Yes, thats 24 thousandths!  It also had one broken ring.  I guess that turbo can make up for loss of compression.  Also, I really had no hard starting problems though.

I pulled it out for mounts, clutch and head gasket.  Turned out my head gasket wasn't leaking though.  But it got a thorough rebuild, due to the piston to cylinder clearance.

[jtanguay]

there was quite a bit of slop in my pistons (didnt measure how much) and that when i had some head work done over 2 years ago... my car is still running (albeit rough, but she can still move if you know what i mean  :wink:)

i did have new rings installed though... i'd say put it back together with whatever new parts you need, and run it until it won't run anymore!!!! (or until you get your engine swap ready to go)

[dave friday]

Just a small point, if you cut a keyway [on the crank] in a differant place wont this put the vibration damper [in/on the crank v belt pulley] in the wrong place?.

[dave friday]

Cheers, just wondered, spose you could turn the crank pulley 180deg and cut the keyway if it was a problem?.

[vwt4]

Cheers, just wondered, spose you could turn the crank pulley 180deg and cut the keyway if it was a problem?.

That would have been an ideal solution however it would have meant removing whats left in there of the engine (the block basically) and the T4 is parked in the most awkward place to work on it never mind remove the engine and transport it 100m down the road to my workshop!

So I decided to go for the 'in situ' fix if at all possible. If I had removed the engine I would have rebuilt it completely ground up, and I didnt really have the time at present. Also, the bottom end seems in very good order (apart from the damage of course!).

Heres the results of my labour (only got the new head the other day so can now start putting it back together   )


how it was before



I firstly used a grinding stone on the end of the drill and then a flat file to get the crank nose completely flat, as it had taken a beating from the wobbly pulley.


Intermediate stage (the weld had good penetration but it was soooo awkward getting in there with the van only on 10" high ramps - not fun). My head was outside the van as I couldnt fit under with the welding mask on  :lol:  Take aim - weld..



Weld now prepped and ground back paintakingly checking to see if I could get a proper fit for the pulley




End result phase 2 - a perfectly fitting crank pulley, rock solid

[zukgod1]

Sweet!!

Congrats man.  

[vwt4]

Hope this is of use to someone.

heres what I found doing this repair -

The weld is the 'easy' bit (but its not, its quite awkward especially if you dont have a 4 poster), reshaping the groove with such limited space was very tricky though.
A mini file was useless as the material was too hard and the 'stroke' I could get was tiny due to the block in the way!

my dremel paid for itself yet again and after several painstaking hours and trying a variety of different disks and grinding stones I got the shape and technique needed.
As you are effectively working blind (as the woodruff key is hidden on the back of the pulley) it is paintaking work shaping the groove again. But a little at a time is the order of the day otherwise you will end up needing to add more material and start over!! Also, you need to be very careful to keep as much of the original groove shape as possible as it makes it easier to resculpt one side.

So fingers crossed once its back together she will run sweetly and my work wont have been in vain  :lol:
Once the bolt is torqued and loctited in though (properly) I dont think this pulley will come loose again ass it is rock solid and so is the crank nose after a littel work...

[zukgod1]

Maybe you should look into the Stud option being discussed?

[vwt4]

Sweet!!

Congrats man.  

Thanks Dan  

I will likely have a few more questions as I button her back up!!

[vwt4]

Maybe you should look into the Stud option being discussed?

Edited as Im half asleep//

yes Dan!! Was just thinking the same thing...well worth while I think

http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=17557&highlight=torque+exhaust+manifold

what a mighty fine idea a stud is!!

[dave friday]

Very nice job, i must get my daughter to teach me how to weld!.

[vwt4]

Very nice job, i must get my daughter to teach me how to weld!.

Cheers Dave. Hopefully has saved me a packet!

[vwt4]

ok guys,a question.

I want to change the crank seal while Ive got it easily accessible.
If you look at the 4th picture down you can see the bolts involved (one is trapped under the PS pump assembly so I think I need to remove this first?)

 Anyway, how easy is it to change the seal by doiuung this (or is it possible?) ? Will the cover plate looking thing just lift off once the bolts are removed? Im guessing I will need to buy a new gasket for behind there as well?

I was thinking of doing it the way Ive done it on other cars before and just prise the old one out with a screwdriver and ease the new one on using a pipe or socket to get it back on there.

But Im curious if the cover plate bit actually lifts off!

Any info appreciated!