running a boost controller

[Jimmy Diesel Junior]

Ok so after reading that useful link i have just realised that i have a bleeder valve and not a manual boost controller  :oops:  Is this still ok for my installation???Cheers..Shane

[vanbcguy]

I just used a bleeder valve on mine... I found a humidifier needle valve at Home Depot along with a brass 'T' fitting and a bit of nylon line that was the right ID for the OD of the steel line on my turbo.  I cut a small piece out of the steel line, slipped the nylon line over the steel line and put it in to the brass 'T', then connected the needle valve to the remaining leg of the 'T'.  I have my boost set at about 15 PSI max now - works great.  About $8 in parts...

The downside of the bleeder valve type system is it doesn't allow as precise control as a proper boost controller would, and it wastes boost since it's essentially a boost leak.  A "real" boost controller would block all pressure to the wastegate until it reached the 'set' pressure on the boost controller.  It would then 'POP' and the wastegate similarly would pop open.  With the bleeder type system the wastegate will slowly start to open as the pressure to it reaches its factory setting which may limit you from making really big boost numbers.  Upside to the bleeder type system is a lot of the wastegates are air-cooled from the wastegate pressure line (like the K24 on my car).  It relies on airflow coming through the wastegate line to cool down the internals.  The "proper" type of boost controller doesn't flow any air until the set boost pressure is reached, so no cooling airflow through the wastegate.  I think that's probably why the Garret turbos have two air lines instead of one - one is for cooling, the other is the actual boost control.  Of course if your waste gate is separate from the turbo and relies on an actuator rod like a lot of the AAZ's then this isn't a concern either.

[Jettagli16v]

My T3 has a metal hard line, bent to the curvature of the turbo, for most of the run, but then just about 2.5-3" of rubber hose.

Though I am not familiar with any turbos using all metal pipe to hit the wastegate actuator, they may exist (My turbo experience is slim)

Even if it were a metal line (make SURE this is the right one!!!)
there are no troubles cutting it and clamping a rubber hose to it to go to the MBC.

For what it is worth, there will only be one line that is screwed into the compressor housing, and goes down to the wastegate.
That is where the magic happens!

Beware,
boost is addictive, and the MBC will easily give you the ability to float your head at the turn of a screw, but you will have fun until that happens!!

-Brad

[vanbcguy]

Mine's a K24 - I think the all-metal wastegate line is more common on the KKK turbos than it is on the Garrets...