I installed my aftermarket turbo. it is being drained via a bung welded high on the oil pan. i am getting enough pressure through the crank to push oil back up that line and out the turbine side of the turbo.
Quote from: "saurkraut".My oil bung is located below the oil level. i need to investigate this a partial problem before the head but after that maybe i will pull the head, and pull out each piston, see if i cant find something, and then install another set of rings? i dont know what else to do?The return Bung for the turbo in the pan? It should be draining into the pan above oil level. Should also be a large tube, Should be made out of SS (I've seen rubber ones melt...)What was break-in procedure? Normal break-in is Using Rotella-t 30wt. oil. Start it in Neutral, bring it up to around 3k rpms, let it wind out for 15 mins. This prevents the cam from wiping. Using Rotella is recommended, as it has a high zinc content (lacking in all modern oil) A few hours of freeway driving will conclude break in. Drain oil, replace with fresh. Change 1k from that also.
.My oil bung is located below the oil level. i need to investigate this a partial problem before the head but after that maybe i will pull the head, and pull out each piston, see if i cant find something, and then install another set of rings? i dont know what else to do?
Quote from: "Jet A"Quote from: "saurkraut".My oil bung is located below the oil level. i need to investigate this a partial problem before the head but after that maybe i will pull the head, and pull out each piston, see if i cant find something, and then install another set of rings? i dont know what else to do?The return Bung for the turbo in the pan? It should be draining into the pan above oil level. Should also be a large tube, Should be made out of SS (I've seen rubber ones melt...)What was break-in procedure? Normal break-in is Using Rotella-t 30wt. oil. Start it in Neutral, bring it up to around 3k rpms, let it wind out for 15 mins. This prevents the cam from wiping. Using Rotella is recommended, as it has a high zinc content (lacking in all modern oil) A few hours of freeway driving will conclude break in. Drain oil, replace with fresh. Change 1k from that also.Oil bung should be above oil level correct. i must have miss measure or not takin engine angle into accoutn when i welded the bung. Bung is made from 1/2npt ss half coupler. standoff on turbo is 1/2" so i should be good to go there. I cant break in due to loosing oil. cam is not new so it doesnt need to be broke in.Rabbit man, it does not take much oil backpressure on the the turbo seal to leak. I would aggree that the pressure should push into the pan, my concern is i am getting either a backup of pressure, or my oil is being pushed up to the turbo. which would cause said backpressure in turbo, which would cause the turbo to leak.I am just not sure which is coming first, the chicken or the egg. maybe i have to much flow restriction, or maybe the bung being below the pan, or maybe i have blow by. i deff have some things to try before pulling the head. I would say that most likely i do not have a broken, or miss installed rings, but as mentioned it is a possiblity.
Quote from: "Jet A"Quote from: "saurkraut".My oil bung is located below the oil level. i need to investigate this a partial problem before the head but after that maybe i will pull the head, and pull out each piston, see if i cant find something, and then install another set of rings? i dont know what else to do?The return Bung for the turbo in the pan? It should be draining into the pan above oil level. Should also be a large tube, Should be made out of SS (I've seen rubber ones melt...)What was break-in procedure? Normal break-in is Using Rotella-t 30wt. oil. Start it in Neutral, bring it up to around 3k rpms, let it wind out for 15 mins. This prevents the cam from wiping. Using Rotella is recommended, as it has a high zinc content (lacking in all modern oil) A few hours of freeway driving will conclude break in. Drain oil, replace with fresh. Change 1k from that also.Definitely need drain bung above oil in pan. High pressure oil enters turbo from oil pump, and then relies on being able to fall into the large drain pipe. Sump pressure does not prevent the oil from falling, but if sump oil is above the bung then it will push up drain, and meet high pressure oil at the bearings. oil will then take the easier route out ie into intake or exhaust pipes.Did the high pressure oil occur right from the start? Or maybe after a mile or so... Enough time to break a ring perhaps. Normally dip stick [on a Quantum at least] is a slopppy fit, yet doesn't leak oil; even with some blowby.Is it happening because oil level is too high, and reaching the dipstick sheath? Do you have a compression tester?Hydraulic lifters can be duff from day one. Usually lazy, so they fail to lift the valve.I don't understand why a faulty valve opening creates clack. Noise most likely injector issue. Try retarding pump a few pencil lines. What is the timing setting for a 1.9?
...BTW your Bieber avatar is awesome.-Malone
You guys are scaring me. I am all ready to build and spending tons and if I have these problems I am going to scream...please figure it out before I get my engine back and installed.
