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#15
by
Smokey Eddy
on 29 Sep, 2008 21:07
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Holy frick!
Okay thanks. good grief.
I'm taking mine apart for boreing within the month and i've never done it before and i need to minimize the amount of time it's apart for.
Thanks for looking that up for me i really appreciate that
ps. my jetta's at 395,775km
Noice tach. I have a useless clock
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#16
by
RabbitJockey
on 29 Sep, 2008 21:31
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alot of people have issues removing the later crank bolt. i;ve heard its easier to cut the head off sometimes. my half inch impact wouldn't take one off.
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#17
by
Smokey Eddy
on 29 Sep, 2008 21:37
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Grade 12 physics tells me a 4 foot cheater bar adds an enormous amount of torque. I'm sure someone could shear steel with 4 feet of leverage. If a 4 foot lever arm doesn't do it, yeah i guess you'd have to cut it off but i think a huge lever like that puts more torque on it than an impact gun ever could. The numbers for impact are impressive but a huge lever like that ... has anyone NOT been able to get it off with a huge arm like that?
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#18
by
cyrus #1
on 29 Sep, 2008 21:48
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Thanks for looking that up for me i really appreciate that
No worries!
I weigh about 200 lbs so with a 4 ft cheater I should be able to develop about 800 ft lbs of torque. You need a very solid impact gun to get those kind of numbers. :twisted:
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#19
by
Smokey Eddy
on 29 Sep, 2008 21:51
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Exactly. not to mention you could probably do more than your own body weight if you are firmly planted with both feet on the wall horizontaly and shoulder into the cheater bar.
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#20
by
Turbinepowered
on 30 Sep, 2008 15:11
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Exactly. not to mention you could probably do more than your own body weight if you are firmly planted with both feet on the wall horizontaly and shoulder into the cheater bar.
We once stacked two of us @ 190 apiece atop a 5' cheater bar and pushed against a beam to break loose a rear axle nut on a Beetle... It still barely came off! That nut wanted to stay on!
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#21
by
Smokey Eddy
on 30 Sep, 2008 15:13
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I can't believe steel takes that kind of force. Was it all warped and deformed?
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#22
by
Turbinepowered
on 30 Sep, 2008 15:14
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I can't believe steel takes that kind of force. Was it all warped and deformed?
Rusted more than shiz. We were fighting friction the entire way, and the cheater pipe we were on top of deformed.
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#23
by
cyrus #1
on 30 Sep, 2008 17:47
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That's scary stuff. Were you using a huge breaker bar? I'm surprised the nut let loose before your ratchet/breaker bar did.
A couple more updates for tonight. I got the block completely stripped down.
I hope that whoever owned the car this engine came out of never buys a car with a cast oil pan. They beat the piss out of this thing. It's dented about 2 inches deep in places. It's hard to tell where one dent ends and the next begins. :roll:
I also got the valvetrain removed from the head.
The cracks between the valves don't appear to be too serious either.
The next step will be to get this stuff cleaned and then try to order pars slowly enough that I'm not totally broke all the time. :cry:
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#24
by
Smokey Eddy
on 30 Sep, 2008 17:58
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Nicely done! you're about 2 weeks ahead of me haha
You have a lot of cleaning to do though. I've already cleaned mine up from previous head jobs (sounds a little dirty!)
I suggest using wet dry on the head after you laqure thinner as much carbon off as you can. 2000 grit works well in small doses (and even doses make sure you use something flat.)
my cracks look more like seperation
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#25
by
cyrus #1
on 30 Sep, 2008 19:07
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I might have a line on an industrial parts washer. It uses hot soapy water so I can wash aluminium or steel with no worries.
Thankfully I'm not in a huge hurry so I can just go at my own pace for the cleaning. It really is the most tedious part of the process.
What are you going to do with the old head? You should cross section it for science, or some cool decorations. :twisted:
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#26
by
Turbinepowered
on 30 Sep, 2008 19:17
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That's scary stuff. Were you using a huge breaker bar? I'm surprised the nut let loose before your ratchet/breaker bar did.
3/4" drive breaker bar, so it was beefy enough to take it. We were just
really careful not to shock it with bouncing or jiggling...
And
whoa. That is a
seriously dented oil pan. :shock: I've seen worse, but it came off a wreck!
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#27
by
Smokey Eddy
on 01 Oct, 2008 00:02
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Yeah that pan must have seen better days. Is that even safe to use with thoe gauges?
What do you mean cross section it for science? hahahhaha
I'll probably destroy it in some manner or another. It has caused me SO much grief and problems and money it's unreal. I'm sure it is useless. Its got big cracks between the valves and im pretty sure the valves have hit the pistons at some point, there are marks on the pistons. It has one injector boss re-welded coz someone broke it off. aparty from that it's fine ^.^
oh and i get running pressure in my coolant system from somewhere.
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#28
by
cyrus #1
on 01 Oct, 2008 19:58
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Yeah that pan must have seen better days. Is that even safe to use with thoe gauges?
I'm not sure of that. I'm going to either pound them out until it's reasonably flat or try to get a new one. TD's are virtually non-existent in this neck of the woods though.
What do you mean cross section it for science? hahahhaha
I mean cut some slices out of that sucker with a band saw. Take a look at the casting just to see what's there and how much could be ported out. :twisted:
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#29
by
Smokey Eddy
on 01 Oct, 2008 19:59
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Hey! good idea!
Like a biology 3d diagram!
cut it in half and then cut one of the halves in half again
Perhaps i'd take donations to do it
post pics on here with measurements
And, i wouldn't bend the steel any more than it's had to. I'm sure it's seen enough trauma. You make split the steel trying to make it flat.