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#60
by
CoolAirVw
on 05 Apr, 2009 18:54
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Keep up the good work. I just wanted to say when you get under the car pull the brake lines down, just move them out of the way, no need to open the system, wire wheel and "treat" the little studs that the brake line clips fasten too, with rust treatment. Those studs/clips hold water and make rust.
There used to be a stud in this picture but instead there is a rust hole. The dark spot in the middle is carpet.
Several of my brake line clip studs had similar holes.
After replacing 1/4 floor, I treated mine with por 15 products and then undercoated. I soaked the studs with undercoating spray, then pressed the brake line clips back on.
See my thread here...
http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6255
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#61
by
theman53
on 05 Apr, 2009 22:07
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Thanks for the advice. I have this spray galvanizing stuff I sell at work that I am using right now and will epoxy primer and undercoat it all when I am finished. I am also welding in *galvanized* sheet metal. I have milk and a respirator and a blow gun and I hold my breath while welding...I don't even feel sick :lol: . I know its poisonous but I am taking every precaution and it is working so far.
I welded most of the day today. I got the back of the drivers side lip done...not the entire back 1/4 just the lip that stiffens it all up. I also got some of the pass side holes fixed.
My problem now is how much do I want to weld? Or what should I weld? I obviously need to fix the holes, but where to stop.
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#62
by
theman53
on 19 Apr, 2009 22:51
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I found out today that if you grind the surface about 1/4" to 1/2" off the edge of the galvanized plate that the fumes are next to nothing
. I have 1 or 2 more welds on the passenger side and then I will move to the drivers side. I have taken every little clip out and welded it shut and sprayed my cold galvanizing compound on it. So far I have learned to mig weld pretty good, I could always arc, but the mig hated me. Best advice a guy gave me was PUSH the mig. I was used to PULLING the arc and that was 1/2 the battle. I will post pics hopefully tomorrow.
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#63
by
TurboJ
on 20 Apr, 2009 02:54
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Good work, mate!
All these little beauties need is a little love, and you're clearly showing yours just that! Bet she's going to turn into a monster with that new heart though :twisted:
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#64
by
theman53
on 02 May, 2009 18:23
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I have finally decided what to do with the floor and made some progress. I am now out of shielding gas again...I am positive that TSC screwed me on this batch :evil: Well here is some pics I got a lot more to go but at least now I can get my head around it.
This one I wanted to see how seamless I could make it and it turned out perfect. All of the gray is cold galvanize not primer.
I did this to strengthen the seat bracket and have something to weld to
I am going to weld this piece of conduit to make it more rigid
Hillbilly Tools and shop= my brake
couple of shots of the old floor
Finally my biggest challenge and hold up TACKED in place
It would have been easier for my cheap --- to buy a rust free car and have it shipped, but at least now I will have some Galvanized pannels and shouldn't do this again. I still have the fender, front part of the floor, and a little piece on the passenger side to deal with but it won't be long. Oh and I am going to replace part of the battery tray since it is missing too.
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#65
by
theman53
on 22 May, 2009 18:20
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#66
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 23 May, 2009 14:12
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i really dig the chevy orange engine. its gonna have at LEAST 50 more horses just cause of that sexy paint job.
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#67
by
8v-of-fury
on 24 May, 2009 07:09
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i really dig the chevy orange engine. its gonna have at LEAST 50 more horses just cause of that sexy paint job.
Easy.. and much more Sex Appeal. Loooooking gooooood Lucas!
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#68
by
TurboJ
on 25 May, 2009 18:00
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Wow.
Really good looking engine parts!
I hope mine will look even half that good...
Good luck with your project!
P.S. Your inlet mani will soon be on its way to your door...
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#69
by
macka
on 13 Jun, 2009 00:04
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my brother made a small vent for welding by using a duct vent pusher fan, a length of dryer hose, and a floor vent. He put the floor vent section right to the suction side of the duct fan section, and the dryer hose goes away from you. I've used it twice for floor work inside a trunk and inside the cockpit. It sucks out most of the fumes, and gets them out of the area you are working.
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#70
by
theman53
on 17 Jul, 2009 21:48
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#71
by
lovinthedeez
on 18 Jul, 2009 01:01
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please tell me more about your beautiful cis intake pleasey.
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#72
by
theman53
on 18 Jul, 2009 08:52
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This was a long time comming. Turbo J and the AKI-76 were a team on this. Aki built it and Turbo J did the paperwork stuff.
I wanted something built and after talking to people I realized that unless they gave me the super secret mathwork for the slot in the plennum I couldn't do it. Aki said he would do it for a really reasonalbe price, then all I had to do was wait 6 months and grind away like you see here. It is actually not a CIS intake I believe he said it was for a D24 6 cylinder that he hacked a cylinder off of. It could have been something else or a 5 cylinder, but I am almost sure it was a volvo part. The ports didn't match the gasket at all well so I had to take off about a 1/4" all the way around and after porting the stock VW intake and this one I can say for sure that this one has a way harder grade aluminum. Polished it with some of my 3M 777F cartridge rolls which are more for metal/stainless and it didn't load like usual. That is about all I can tell you.
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#73
by
lovinthedeez
on 18 Jul, 2009 10:33
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so how much would it cost if i found said manifold, and did said porting, and sent it out. don't care how long it takes, take another month if six isn't enough. you could im me if you'd like. that thing is a beaut.
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#74
by
theman53
on 19 Jul, 2009 17:14
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Any ideas???
I have no idea what I am going to do now, I sold the stock intake to pay for this partially.