So my 1.6TD is running like a dragster, but not in a good way.

[745 turbogreasel]

Don't be silly. Most VW diesels don't get 200K without replacement or major repair work. It is possible to get more, but 600K is a pipe dream. I have owned well over 3 dozen diesel Rabbits and Jettas and worked on a hundred more and I have never seen one get 300K on the original motor. I know that they do sometimes rack up that kind of mileage but it is truly exceptional.

So again, how much impact are you talking?  The vehicle  in the 300K case was a Ford, so 300K was middle to high lifespan, but it still ran fine when he traded it in.
I took my own apart after 30K on grease, and it looked like any other  275K motor inside.  Later my pump input seal failed, but it was probably 25 years old.

[Bugsy_malone 666]

  I'm pretty happy to pay $4/gal for my 40mpg-ish ride

Well by your pricing scheme its what a dollar a litre? works out about $2.14 a litre in the UK! Diesel in the UK hasnt been a dollar a litre in about 17 years or so.

Mainly when diesel here was around $1.83 a litre wasnt too much of a bind in a vehicle as my van does somewhere in the region of 35-45mpg(uk 4.5litre gallon)

Biodiesel might be my next investigation, seems many folks have been running veg oil conversions for 40-50k miles with no real problems, I have covered less than 1k on wvo and had alsorts of issues, but some of it I question might be related to an engine thats 25+ years old with 155k+ on the clock having never had recon parts that I can see. If you make enough biodiesel the cost falls to something like $0.23 a litre and thats great.

The glycerin can also be recycled, its whats used as a base for soap and you can make soap from it with some minor processing, thus recycling a waste product.

Am interested to hear what a pressurized fuel supply with straight diesel does on the van still.

Unfortunately I dont have any electric fuel pumps or anything and its very difficult to do alot to the van, generally when its running its fine, its just recently its been crap.

What I have been noticing with WVO is over a long time period it becomes sticky a bit like glue/grease sort of thing and I am wondering if perhaps this might be the problem having caused something to stick in the pump when it was sat. Ultimately going forward I'll be looking at thinning the oil with maybe 30-40% dino diesel before in future going biodiesel.

The vans kind of a test bed for many things like this as in the future I plan to look into have my own large diesel stationary engine running on waste oil. Got a feeling there was an old open crank type engine that actually runs on waste engine oil! I suspect in the stationary engines wvo might work better as they run alot hotter!

Rains been spoiling play so havent had chance to try and look at/break the van today, looks like the weathers going to be rubbish this week too! Always the way and I have a mk3 golf in bits doing the brakes on, exhaust to build for this van and the troubleshooting too and it typically rains!

[Toby]

Much like turbo'ing a NA motor, if you cut the life expectancy of a 600-800K motor in half
it's still longer/farther than most anyone keeps or drives a given vehicle. 
Commercial use excepted. 

I just bought a real nice 2000 TDI Jetta for $1500. Dealer maintained all its life. Just had timing belt, water pump, GPs, etc. 330 on the clock and not enough compression to start ay 50*F.

This one seems on the high end of what I see all of the time.

[wolf_walker]

No comment on TDI's. Very little experience with em.  

There is a lot more to longevity and the zen of motor
health than oil changes at the dealer or such though.
I could believe that an "average" TDI lives to 300K or so,
like an "average" IDI lives to 200K.

Most of us here aren't average. 

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[8v-of-fury]

The "average" TDI I see is easily at the 300k mark or higher where I am, many in great condition.

[wolf_walker]

The "average" TDI I see is easily at the 300k mark or higher where I am, many in great condition.

I could believe that too.

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[Bugsy_malone 666]

I have finally found the problem!

- I dont think its anything to do with the fuel pump.
- I dont think its anything to do with WVO.
- Minor leak on the injectors, dont think its that either.

You know on the end of the crank there is a channel for a woodruff key? Well what a crap design. Either that or its a safety feature so you dont damage anything too badly

So as you see here:



3 different equally rubbish designs where there isnt an actual woodruff key but its cast onto the sprocket, mine doesnt have anything anymore.

So I will part appologise to Tony, in theory running it will screw it up, but with the problem I had previously this was unexpected. I was just starting it up to move it and it chugged and stopped, then when I spun it over it sounded like someone had a decompressor on (which in theory with the valves open/close there wouldnt have been compression. Equally it didnt sound like the valves were banging against the pistons or anything, just sounded like the valves were open.

So I originally thought hmm maybe the cam had snapped, I'll investigate, got the rocker cover off to find it as it should be, put my socket on the crank nut and started turning clockwise to find it was loose, I cant see why it was loose as during the recent works I have been going clockwise consistantly. Thats when I was like aww crap.

So for now its back to the drawing board, gonna have to bung the stock Aircooled petrol engine in so I can move it and stuff and because of what happend I am going to have to look at rebuilding an engine, hoping nothing is knackered but it wasnt my plan to do this at this stage!

[libbydiesel]

I called it in post #2.

[Bugsy_malone 666]

you may have called it, but whether you knew why is a different matter.

I had this same problem recently with smoke and poor running etc and that was the fuel pump timing. For the most part all I got was people ***ing on about bad fuel and veg oil, nothing of the sort, pump timing sorted it, fine for 500 miles and I drove it home fine.

Its the fact that something actually broke, a common part failure outside of my control is the PITA. In realistic terms, the moment I fired it up it was doomed, so theres no points for being right on this one. I think good job I wasnt doing 70 down the road though.

[wolf_walker]

Bent valves?

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[8v-of-fury]

Bent valves?

If the valves were open even the slightest, they most certainly contacted the pistons. There is literallyless clearance than the head gasket is thick between the valves and pistons.

[damac]

I don't get it, whats bad about the stock design on 1.6 engines?  I have not met one engine that I have broken down yet that has even a hint of wear with that keyway on the crank or the sprocket.  I have been reusing each along with the old style bolts, torquing to spec and haven't had any issues?

[wolf_walker]

Bent valves?

If the valves were open even the slightest, they most certainly contacted the pistons. There is literallyless clearance than the head gasket is thick between the valves and pistons.

It was more a suggestion than question.



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[wolf_walker]

I don't get it, whats bad about the stock design on 1.6 engines?  I have not met one engine that I have broken down yet that has even a hint of wear with that keyway on the crank or the sprocket.  I have been reusing each along with the old style bolts, torquing to spec and haven't had any issues?

I think the post 1.6 and pre-tdi are trouble prone. VW changed the bolt early on too, one is reusable and one isn't on the early idi or some such. Every time I have to dick with one I go read up again.  I've managed to never have to pull the one off my aaz and its not a serp belt so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. The clutched alt pulley is part of the equation too.

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[libbydiesel]

you may have called it, but whether you knew why is a different matter.

I had this same problem recently with smoke and poor running etc and that was the fuel pump timing. For the most part all I got was people ***ing on about bad fuel and veg oil, nothing of the sort, pump timing sorted it, fine for 500 miles and I drove it home fine.

Its the fact that something actually broke, a common part failure outside of my control is the PITA. In realistic terms, the moment I fired it up it was doomed, so theres no points for being right on this one. I think good job I wasnt doing 70 down the road though.

I said to stop running it and check timing.  Pistons were hitting valves.  You decided to argue against checking the timing and went along with 3 pages of the thread.  When you mentioned that you drove it with it running that poorly and had no concern it was clear that I was wasting my time trying to help and would reserve any further input for the fun of the "I told you so" and the resultant back-and-forth banter.  Thanks for the accommodation.