You are scaring me with those open injector holes. Did you get a windage tray for the oil pan?
Make sure you recheck the timing belt timing once installed. I had to do the same thing using a small probe down the injector hole for finding TDC but once everything was together I was out about a tooth on the flywheel.
Quote from: 410 on January 10, 2014, 07:10:44 pmYou won't regret going with the stage 2 SB clutch. Backing up a trailer with a grabby clutch really sucks. Been there.Yeah after I ordered it I saw someone mentioning somewhere that South Bend basically say that the Stage 2 Endurance will hold more torque than a pair of street tires will anyhow. So basically unless you are planning to run drag tires, the Stage 2 is perfect. Anyhow glad it's sorted, and glad to save $200 on it over the Stage 3. The one thing that hurts about all of this is I actually planned a trip to the states back in December purely so I could get my clutch and avoid the shipping / duty involved in sending everything here to Canada. I did get a whole bunch of other stuff for my build so it wasn't a total loss, but I'm having to spend an extra $150 in shipping and duty now that I wouldn't have had if the DC clutch had shipped anywhere even remotely close to when it was supposed to. I mean considering the total bill for everything here it's not that big a deal but $150 is $150. I could have redone my front brakes for that.ANYHOW, enough griping!!Here's where I'm at now:Cam and lifters installed (with tons of cam lube!), timing belt installed - still need to do the IP timing. I used the "small screwdriver down an injector hole to find TDC" method since the flywheel obviously isn't on yet - will finalize everything later on. Serp belt installed, very pleased with how the WP pulley and belt fit as I pulled the part numbers from various posts out there on the interwebz.
You won't regret going with the stage 2 SB clutch. Backing up a trailer with a grabby clutch really sucks. Been there.
OK - if the belt is too long and rubbing on they WP pulley under the tensioner then you still need a shorter belt. The parts stores seem to really suck at belt size lookups for the Canada-specific engines so I'm not surprised you've had issues. Our ACC-engined Jetta took about 3 tries to get the right size belt and it has exactly the same pulley layout as you are dealing with.I believe I got a Gates K060408HD for my car with the same setup. I haven't put it on yet so I can't say for sure that it is the right size but I got the size info from my research before. You can get the 'regular' version of the belt without the HD suffix for a tiny bit less money. The HD version is their fleet service version which is supposed to last longer. It's a green belt rather than black.
...BTW your Bieber avatar is awesome.-Malone
I think they added the ALH vacuum reservoir because of the VNT vacuum actuator. I would add one if going with the vacuum actuator on your VNT control. It would 'suck' to use enough vacuum during braking and not build enough at idle and have your vanes not close properly at take off...
None of the VW cars ran a vacuum "ball" until the ALH cars, at least that I'm aware of. Not really sure why they started running the vacuum balls on them either, maybe the duty cycle of the egr and n75 valves can be a high enough load? Anyhow, I think you will be fine. Likely the other vacuum thing you're thinking of is your locks.
My 83 GTI had a vacuum "honeycomb" attached to the hood of the car. You maybe able to find one and strap it to the hood like they did if you really need to.
I would go for the stage 3 then. My stage 2 acts as stock with the heavy flywheel. that would be the other part, if you go with a lighter flywheel it will probably be much harsher than with the heavy 21lb one I have.