fuel screw o-ring replacement

[92EcoDiesel Jetta]

I just started getting some small air bubbles in the clear return fuel line. At around the same time, I noticed the fuel screw is weeping slightly (was dry before).

I assume there's an o-ring in there if I remove the fuel screw.
I have never done this job before and thought I'd ask so I don't screw anything up.

1. Does the stainless collar on the fuel screw have to be removed to remove the fuel screw?
2. Do the fuel inj steel hardlines have to be removed?
3. Will a spring or other parts come flying out when the fuel screw is removed?

I have left over o-rings from a IP reseal kit which hopefully will fit.

[92EcoDiesel Jetta]

Gonna answer my own questions. I got the fuel screw out and replaced the o-ring. The old one was a little flattened out.

1. No, but the collar does prevent the screw fromm being advanced C.W. for more fuel.

2. No.

3. No again.

I find a 1/8 in diameter shaft screwdriver much easier to adjust the fuel screw than a 7 mm wrench. It fits in between 2 injector lines.

I turned it C.W. and definitely noticed more pep (and black smoke if I floor it). It also raises the idle a little.

Is there a general procedure in adjusting it?

[ORCoaster]

Adjusting the fuel screw is a balancing act between how far you want it in and the idle RPM.  If you want more power and screw the fuel screw in then you need to back the idle down.  The fuel screw changes the amount of fuel all along the fueling path, from idle to full roar.  Not just at the top end.

So knock the idle back if you want to "pour coals" on white tailgating Honda Civics' with fart cans on them.  Bump the idle up if you want to squeeze the last bit of mileage out of the diesel you are burning.  Just be aware that starting from a stop on a hill may not be possible if you lean it out too far.  I have done that and had to back it up, turn around and get a run at the hill at a higher RPM.

Hope this helps.