Vnt install

[rodpaslow]

I finally spent a week of my holidays installing my vnt 15 and I have a couple questions.  I will try an get some pics soon possibly to help.

I broke my vacuum controller that came with the turbo, so I have a t3 boost can in conjunction with a cable to control the vanes.  The cable is pulled by the throttle cable via a spring - I may not have things tuned 100% just yet.

1.  I thought I understood how to make a manual boost controller - is this right?
I had connected 1/4" inch hose from the intake to the boost can.  then I cut this and put a t connector in with a valve I can use to bleed off air in this hose that goes to the boost can.  Is this correct?

2.  With the valve closed, the vnt seems like it will start boosting under load very quickly up to about 10 psi and drop off a second or two later right back down to 0, and if I shift and almost floor it again, it will come up very quickly again to 10-15 psi, and drop off etc.. until gear five.  Do I need more fueling as when the boost comes up, there is no black out the back until the boost controller kicks in. ( I can tell as the sound of the exhaust changes to something that sounds more like a gasser).

Any help appreciated.  Thanks

[wdkingery]

Was this install on a a2? If so howd you get over the motor mount situation?.

[rodpaslow]

No it was an A3 install, but the same situation exists with A3.  I ended up buying a motor mount that works off here (vendors section), but for me, the hole for the mount was a bit off (3/4") and just had to drill one extra hole.

Biggest thing for the install is tuning the vane control.  I just want to know if I have things correct for the boost can control??

The longest/hardest thing for the install for me was the downpipe.  I just bought some stainless mandrel bent tubing, but the time to get it correct to the rest of the exhaust was the hardest for me.  The oil lines are easy to attach, just for the drain remove the once cv shaft, makes things easier to get at.

[rodpaslow]

  I did some work on the weekend and found on my vnt 15, the closer the control is to the ground the higher the boost.  So I have my control backwards and will have to add a pivot and a linkage to reverse the way I currently have it.  I've read over fspGTD in FAQ and libbybapa's install, but his control seems backwards to mine.  If you want full boost at full throttle, the control on mine needs to be down as far as possible when installed.

[R.O.R-2.0]

I did some work on the weekend and found on my vnt 15, the closer the control is to the ground the higher the boost.  So I have my control backwards and will have to add a pivot and a linkage to reverse the way I currently have it.  I've read over fspGTD in FAQ and libbybapa's install, but his control seems backwards to mine.  If you want full boost at full throttle, the control on mine needs to be down as far as possible when installed.

on a VNT15, lever down blows head gaskets, and lever up makes you go fast.. lol.

[rodpaslow]

ROR yours must be stuck mid way or something.  I've got a relatively new motor, less than 15k miles and with the VNT engine revs at 3000 lever set for low boost, I don't get much of anything showing till 3400 revs and over.  I wanted a VNT for boost below 3000 revs and just a test it starts at about 1500 an builds from there is the lever is set for high boost / all way down.

I have a cable linked to the throttle and in line with this is a boost can.  I haven't got it 100% tuned yet, but my preference would be to see 5-10 psi cruise and 20-25 psi under full throttle.  I think this will be easily acheiveable as this is so much better than the T3 that was in the car before.

I don't doubt that the lever set to high boost and no boost control would easily blow a head gasket on a 1.6TD.

What I still don't know is if I have my boost controller set correctly and installed correctly.  How you have it installed would help.  Until I know that I can control the boost with the right foot.

[R.O.R-2.0]

no, my vanes are as open as they will go, i took the turbo apart and manually opened every one of them.. had to do it manually, there all coked up and wont hardly turn..

like, my vanes all point directly at the turbine wheel, all perpendicular to it. there open..

when there closed, the turbo makes about 40 psi barely off an idle 

[rodpaslow]

ROR - what do get for boost running at 3000 or so revs and putting the go pedal to the floor?  Now I'm a bit worried I will have too much - 40 psi is waaaay too much.

[wdkingery]

Hey rod what did you pay for your motor mount? I sent you a pm but I didn't hear back

[rodpaslow]

wdkinery - my appologies for not getting back to you.  I think I bought it in the vendor section from shortsclimbin for $160 plus shipping.  It fit the block well, but for my MK3 I had to re-drill the hole that bolts to the motor mount itself - it was off about 1" from where it needed to be for my car.

I just finished adjusting my setup - I will try and post some pictures tomorrow.  I was able to adjust the cable so I roughly get what I wanted 2-4 psi at a cruise speed and at 3/4 to full throttle it climbs really fast to about 24 psi before the boost can cuts in and moves the vane control back to open and stays at 24 psi until I let off.  The setup I have uses a simple link to the injector pump with a slot so you can adjust the radius that cable is pulled from.  Another longer link connects to the pull end of the cable.  This runs to the other end of the cable that has a holder that I attached to the EGR mount. (of course no egr is used so it's just a block off plate) The cable itself runs through this holder and attaches to a boost can and it's attached to another link.  There's a pivot mounted on the turbo.  The link pivots in the center as the throttle is pulled it moves the vane control towards the bottom of the car, thus increasing boost.  This VNT is awesome!  It roughly starts boosting at 1500 rpm and will hit max 24 psi in a matter of seconds.  Otherwise boost can be controlled simply by the movement of the go pedal.  The car is alot more driveable.

[rodpaslow]

I did have one problem as my old t3 never hit 24 psi at full boost, it pushed out my dipstick and some oil all over the place.  I put a clamp on it for the time being to hold it in place.  When I did the motor, I couldn't get a diesel dipstick and tube.  I have a gasser one.  If I simply get an o-ring for the dipstick, will this be sufficient enough to hold it in place?

[fatmobile]

 Sounds like there is enough block pressure to blow some seals out.
 I think the I-shaft seal usually gets pushed out first so look for an oil hemorage there.

 Vent the block, at the block off plate by the oil filter mount.

[rodpaslow]

I thought I'd try and get some pictures in. 
http://s1134.photobucket.com/albums/m618/rodderboost/?action=view&current=3897115137_330.jpg
More to come.

[rodpaslow]

try againhttp://s1134.photobucket.com/albums/m618/rodderboost/?action=view&current=3897115137_330.jpg

[rodpaslow]

More pictures....