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VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
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Injection Pump front seal 1.6 question
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Topic: Injection Pump front seal 1.6 question (Read 6421 times)
March 26, 2011, 05:53:01 pm
Baron VonZeppelin
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Injection Pump front seal 1.6 question
«
on:
March 26, 2011, 05:53:01 pm »
Almost done with my first ever complete resealing of an Injection Pump. Its one of the pesky Altitude Aneroid type pumps from my 89.
I didn't do the internal aneroid o-ring ... but doing/done all the others.
The front main shaft seal seemed a little crooked at the semi flush point - - so i drove it a lil bit more to straiten it up. (probably bottomed out in the recess now)
About 1/16th inch or so of casting is above the seal.
(aka its sunken in the recess)
I dipped it into some Diesel/ATF mixture before driving it into the pump casting.
When i rotate the sprocket back or forth - i hear a little of a squeegee sound from the seal.
Is This Normal ?? Acceptable ??
Is the main shaft tapered more beyond the point where the seal normally rides -- or is it flush throughout that zone ?
Do i need to dig it back out and get another seal ?
(i'll ruin it getting it back out)
Only other thing left now is the big rear seal / o-ring.
I've done a couple of those "on-car" so hopefully it goes as smooth as those did. After my dinner and smoke break, i'll go get that one next.
Thanks for any first hand knowledge / input .
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Reply #1
March 26, 2011, 05:55:48 pm
Baron VonZeppelin
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Re: Injection Pump front seal 1.6 question
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Reply #1 on:
March 26, 2011, 05:55:48 pm »
The 1/16th recess .... might be more like 1/8th inch above seal.
Somewhere in the 1/16 - 1/8 zone.
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Reply #2
March 26, 2011, 08:51:43 pm
Baron VonZeppelin
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Re: Injection Pump front seal 1.6 question
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Reply #2 on:
March 26, 2011, 08:51:43 pm »
I guess most important question is
does the input shaft have another taper (larger diameter) behind where the front seal normally rides.
mk2 89 altitude Inj Pump
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Reply #3
March 26, 2011, 11:25:11 pm
maxfax
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Re: Injection Pump front seal 1.6 question
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Reply #3 on:
March 26, 2011, 11:25:11 pm »
Quote from: libbybapa on March 26, 2011, 08:53:03 pm
You can always see if it leaks and change that seal on the car (need to pull the t-belt, tho).
X2... I had the squeegee sound one time around.. Never gave me any problems though..
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Reply #4
March 27, 2011, 11:51:49 am
Baron VonZeppelin
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Re: Injection Pump front seal 1.6 question
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Reply #4 on:
March 27, 2011, 11:51:49 am »
Thanks guys - I appreciate it. =)
Wondering now if the small amount of ATF in the fuel i used for lubricant is causing the little squeegee sound with the front seal.
Was going to put a new Tbelt and tensioner in on this operation too. But might hold off and see what the front seal does for a few thousand miles first. Belt isn't really timed out yet anyway, its in the lower 40k'ish range.
Added another successful rear o-ring replacement to the list.
The guys at the local Bosch Auth. diesel shop protest that it CAN NOT be done the way i'm doing them - without failure.
I use a modified crusty crank method.
Only difference is i make sure to get the plunger at zero/neutral, first. His outline makes no mention to this.
And i let the o-ring/seal rest in the groove for an hour or so, before running the screws back in. In case it needs to regain some composure after the stretching.
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Reply #5
March 27, 2011, 09:13:56 pm
Baron VonZeppelin
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Re: Injection Pump front seal 1.6 question
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Reply #5 on:
March 27, 2011, 09:13:56 pm »
Thanks Libby.
Believe i will look into making a spacer for the plunger before doing the next one. If the easy/lazy way ever fails on me, i'll be drowning in sh!t creek.
The boys at local Bosch shop say the head HAS to come off for proper/successful installation. They charge $100 parts and labor to do a bench job replacement on just that seal - if its untouched.
If its already been fudged up - price goes up quick.
They say they get quite a few on a regular basis with the plunger snapped.
They do not believe i have done them on the car.
I think its made into the design to be able to do them this way. imho
They get $200 plus parts to do early/basic NA pump complete reseal. Aneroid pumps are more, but he didn't specify that cost.
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Reply #6
March 29, 2011, 07:51:33 pm
Baron VonZeppelin
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Re: Injection Pump front seal 1.6 question
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Reply #6 on:
March 29, 2011, 07:51:33 pm »
Waited 3 days for the rain to stop so i could remount this pump.
Snapped the bottom front mounting bolt on the last round of final adjustment. UnFuchingBelievable
Belt tracking, belt tension, injection timing, everything was spot-on the button. I need a vacation
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Reply #7
March 29, 2011, 11:11:40 pm
Baron VonZeppelin
Guest
Re: Injection Pump front seal 1.6 question
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Reply #7 on:
March 29, 2011, 11:11:40 pm »
Just snapped the front bottom bolt - as far as i know.
Its those deals with the stationary bolts made into the brackets dealio's.
The inner top one felt squimish on final tightening.
The bottom one never even really felt tight - when it snapped.
Done this over 100 times before on various 1.6 cars - no probos.
Sucks so much because i finished resealing it 3 days ago and kept waiting for rain to stop. Today was the only day this week that was supposed to be dry. Saturday is next dry day.
This white 89 is my favorite to drive regularly.
Its been parked for about 3 months waiting on me to get around to pulling the pump and resealing it. Thought i'd finally be driving it again tomorrow.
Quantum TD is sending me the upper and lower bolt brackets by priority mail. Replacing the inner top one too since it felt squimish. Regrouping for Saturday.
The timing pointer was already broken off flush on the tranny case when i bought this car years ago. It takes me 3-4 times longer to get everything set and double/triple checked on the initial timing and injection timing on this car. So when the bolt snapped after going through all those motions ----....____
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VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
»
General Information
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Troubleshooting
(Moderators:
malone
,
burn_your_money
,
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theman53
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Injection Pump front seal 1.6 question