My new ride, a '92 2 door golf (pics)

[rabbitman]

This http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=24851.0 is now mine.

I'm just cleaning it out so far and in doing so I couldn't find the rear seatbelts. I looked at the mounting locations, which could be shoulder or just lap belts and the slot in the rear speaker shelfs where the belt should go through still has the block off plug in it. I also looked where the reel would bolt if it had a lap belt and there's a nice little plastic plug in it too.......

Any thoughts?

[rabbitman]

I got to looking at the rust around the rear window and it's worse than I thought.

I bought some rust treatment by permatex and just chipped the rust bubbles off and smeared it under the window seal but I could tell it wasn't gonna work very good. Ended up taking the hatch glass out and wire wheeled the lip real good so I could really smear the stuff on thick.

Also had some very minor surface rust spots on the floor that I'm taking care of too, after doing the rust treatment I'm gonna hit it with 3M undercoating (inside the car), there's also some stops where the factory stuff came off so I'll hit that too. Supposedly this underseal is sound deadening and rust proofing. I hope so.

I bought a drivers side window regulator and tried putting it in but it turns out I bought it for an '86 instead of a '92, so I gotta get another one.

I'll keep yall posted.

[rabbitman]

I ran out of stuff to do for a little while and looking around I found this

This was already brought up a while back and someone said it's an aftermarket alarm horn.

Idk how they're usually wired in but you can see in the pic that wad of duct tape is a rather large 5 or 6 pin plug, I traced the wiring from there to where some of it tees into the main harness under the brake booster, the rest goes through the firewall and from there some of it hooks into the back of the fuse panel and some goes up the A pillar. I didn't see where it goes up there.
I took the horn off and the brand is "Ricar", it has a sensativity adjustment and a key slot that says something about.....emergency shut off I think it was. I couldn't find anything online about it. There's also a sticker with something other than english on it.

[rabbitman]

So I've been getting the engine ready and took the head off to put a HG on, I'd bought a new 3 holer ahead of time since that's what was on it, after measuring piston protrusion I discovered it really needs a 2 hole gasket. Cylinders 1, 2 and 4 range from about .0295" to .0315", #3 is .0345" and the limit for a 1 holer is something like .0339".

It came with a Dr. Diesel performance camshaft (never ran) so I'm glad it barely needs a 2 hole HG, according to Dr Diesel the high lift cam makes things a little close inside the combustion chamber.....I'll take his word for it .

Then since the head is off waiting for the gasket I decided to do a little port cleanup, nothing big, just get rid of some casting blobs, ridges and do a gasket match.

I borrowed my bros dremel for the job and during the last intake runner I managed to fry the motor in the dremel, a quick web search showed that model to be prone to such catastrophies so I'll argue with the maker and try to get a good deal on a new/better one.

I used my hitachi drill with the dremel bits to sorta finish off the intakes and got most of the exhausts partway done but I need to find another dremel to reach in farther and finish everything up. I haven't touched either manifold yet, I'm not too excited about grinding the cast iron exhaust mani.

I think I fixed the hatch rust so paint is the next thing on the list, the rear half of the vehicle is lighter than the front and the hatch is even lighter so I'll try to paint the whole hatch to match the rear half then it can at least be by-colored instead of tri-colored.
After the paint is on I get to reinstall the rear glass and taillights and it'll look like a car again.

I've been grinding the surface rust off the floor inside and then spraying undercoat on, supposedly it doubles as a sound deadener which makes me happy, I'm about deaf after driving the rabbit for 4 years.
In between undercoating it and other stuff I washed the interior off, it was mildewing from water getting it and humidifying the insides. Also installed a new window regulator.

Once that's all done the interior goes back in, it's just CL trim so it's nothing special but it is in very good condition.

With the engine I'm gonna button it back up and run the most powerful coolant flush I can find, there's quite a bit of rust scale built up in the block.

What coolant do you guys use? Supposedly the green stuff ins't the correct type so I found Zerex G-05 that says for vw but idk if I should just use green since it's so easy to get.

[rabbitman]

Got the interior put back together today, the seats are real nice except I found a cigarette hole in the driver seat .

Also the dash is garbage, it's broke out between the heater controls and stereo and the screw holes are all messed up. I need another dash bezel for it anyways so I'll probably just loot all of the dash stuff.

What do you guys with golfs run for rear speakers? I think it's supposed to use 4x6, I don't need to vibrate the windows but I'd like it to sound good with a reasonable amount of bass. What brand sounds good?

[R.O.R-2.0]

i thought this thing was like an 85 or 86?

[rabbitman]

i thought this thing was like an 85 or 86?

The raintray vin says it's a '92 but somebody retitled it as an '86 when they brought it over.

[clbanman]

What do you guys with golfs run for rear speakers? I think it's supposed to use 4x6, I don't need to vibrate the windows but I'd like it to sound good with a reasonable amount of bass. What brand sounds good?

I've got one with Infinity's in the stock rear location.  It's also got Infinity 8" woofers in the front doors and Infinity tweeters on top of the dash. I like the Infinity's but need an amp to properly power them and take advantage of their capabilities.

My other car I cut holes in the rear tray and put in 6X9's with boxes underneath.   Eats up a ton of room and is not convenient.   I have to unplug and remove them if I want to carry anything of any size.  Not something I'll do again.   

Next time I'll go with high end 6" rounds for mids and highs at the rear, and then a sub box for bass.   Not a ton of room for an ideal setup, but most of your volume should really be coming from the front to get the proper sound stage.   That's another issue with room in these cars.  I've seen some guys do stuff with hidden speaker boxes under the dash area ported to the top of the dash, but I've never heard them so have no idea if it really works or not.
 

[R.O.R-2.0]

any good reputable brand name will have good speakers for our rides, but like was stated, you really need an amplifier to power them and make them sound right..

i have JL Audio speakers all the way around my car.. TR evolutions in the front and rear, and a 13" W7 woofer..

a 100 pound sub box is a pain in the ass in a rabbit...

[macka]

One of the Cambridge guys had his mk2 (has single round cross hairs) sound ported up. He hits Timmies in Hespeler on the odd time. It sounds good. He spent some serious time and $$$$ making that set up.
 If you really want to make decent sound on a low buck system, buy high end gently used gear and know someone who can design you a good sub box. Mine isn't 100 pounds, but I found that anchoring a 30 pound box takes away the vibration bounce which mangles good sub sound. Yea it isn't as deep sounding as a 100 pound box, but, 4 bolts and 2 screws and it is out of my way.

[R.O.R-2.0]

One of the Cambridge guys had his mk2 (has single round cross hairs) sound ported up. He hits Timmies in Hespeler on the odd time. It sounds good. He spent some serious time and $$$$ making that set up.
 If you really want to make decent sound on a low buck system, buy high end gently used gear and know someone who can design you a good sub box. Mine isn't 100 pounds, but I found that anchoring a 30 pound box takes away the vibration bounce which mangles good sub sound. Yea it isn't as deep sounding as a 100 pound box, but, 4 bolts and 2 screws and it is out of my way.

the actual woofer is what makes up most of my boxes weight.. its a big boy sub woofer, weighs like 70+ pounds, $1200 MSRP, takes 1600 watts just to make it sound decent.

definitely not for the faint hearted..

[macka]

One of the Cambridge guys had his mk2 (has single round cross hairs) sound ported up. He hits Timmies in Hespeler on the odd time. It sounds good. He spent some serious time and $$$$ making that set up.
 If you really want to make decent sound on a low buck system, buy high end gently used gear and know someone who can design you a good sub box. Mine isn't 100 pounds, but I found that anchoring a 30 pound box takes away the vibration bounce which mangles good sub sound. Yea it isn't as deep sounding as a 100 pound box, but, 4 bolts and 2 screws and it is out of my way.

the actual woofer is what makes up most of my boxes weight.. its a big boy sub woofer, weighs like 70+ pounds, $1200 MSRP, takes 1600 watts just to make it sound decent.

definitely not for the faint hearted..

I don't need that much sub, that's just insane for me anyways.

[R.O.R-2.0]

i dont need that much sub either, i just got a SCREAMIN DEAL on it, and figured i should atleast use it..

[rabbitman]

I'm not going to bother with a sub, I hate not having room for everthing I want to haul.

I have the rear stock speaker mounts but not the tray and I don't want to cut anything up just for speakers anyways.

Also these doors don't have a speaker mount, instead they have pockets.

IDK.......I'm hoping to just find some good speakers that'll mount in the stock locations and hopefully it'll sound ok.

[rabbitman]

So today I was going to put the valves back in the head and noticed the #2 intake valve felt rather loose in the guide. I had measured a couple and they where in the .025"-.030" range which is ok, but this valve was way loose. Measuring showed it to be .050"-.053. The wear limit is .051" . I also found some little nicks in the stem just above where the seal rides.....

So then I got to looking at the rest and they all have nicks and scuff marks.

So I for sure need one new valve guide and now I'm wondering if I should just get all new stainless valves.

The valves also have slight scrape marks on the stems where they ride in the guide but the sealing surfaces are good.

So from this description should I just get a new guide (I'll have to have someone else do it) and run the same valves or new guide and all new valves?