Okay,
i drive a mk2 jetta turbo diesel, it's as aerodynamic as a brick. However it's my car and I enjoy driving it.
Essentially I'm after looking into reducing all parasitic drive train loss, and decreasing rolling resistance on the car. While i don't want to do much in the way of wind resistance, I will do what I can to ensure that there is no real major blockages while I'm driving.
This isn't going to be pursued currently due to winter, due to weather, and due to other factors, but I want to work towards revamping the car for next spring/summer when the roads are dry, and the results are little more consistent.
The things i've thought about currently for the upcoming year are the following;
Fluids -obviously oil is a major fluid that has it's own factors, and the cleaner and thinner the oil the more efficient it becomes. so i'll change it accordingly come summer or next 2 services. With the engine oil comes cleanliness of the inner workings of the engine, diesel soot and other particles can hamper fluidity of the engine as well, rendering the oil not as useful.
While some call it a placebo effect, I have used a product called AutoRx. It's a non toxic metal cleaner designed to reduce engine sludge and renew engine seals to their new state. It's worked very well for me in my gasser cars, and i will intend on using it for my diesel. After that it's all about the regular oil changes there after.
the next fluid is transmission oil. i'm not very schooled on the types of transmission oil, as the only thing I do know is to change it every 2-3 years. It's a fluid that has a viscosity rating, and like any other fluid, change is necessary. If i can find a way to reduce friction with that I'm all for it.
A question then remains regarding coolant. Diesels like to run warmer than gas cars due to the nature of their combustion. However a cooler gas car will be more efficient than a warmer one. So a question that I have is, do i go forward and make my IDI engine run cooler to ensure more efficiency? or just leave the cooling system as it is at the 60/40 split?
Power train- Belts [power steering, water pump, alternator, a/c compressor]. I want to remove the power steering as the pump currently is leaking and really its inoperable. That will reduce some unessesary effort of the engine. then I want to change the V belt system in the car to a serp belt system. At that same token, I want to see if a higher rating alternator will assist in reducing the load driven by the engine. But does that really work? Or should i just stick to what i have?
Air filter. probably a conical, or a high flow more efficient design to allow the turbo to gain more fresh atmospheric air. Maybe ram air with a water bypass? It does rain plenty in Vancouver.
Bearings and wheels/tires. Essentially I'll check to ensure that all wheel bearings are in operable condition and replace if necessary, but the real major change will be in the purchase of performance summer tires. I currently have corrado steel wheels, and they are factory spec from VW, 15x6" with the standard 38 offset. Not going to change those unless i can get my hands on some ultra light alloys in the same specs. The reason for performance summer tires is pretty simple, less rolling resistance, and greater traction to allow for increase corner speed entry and exit, resulting in less need to accelerate more so than current. Which leads it up to what the wheels are connected to.
Intercooler. Front mount ideally, as it will decrease the intake temp and potentially decrease the exhaust temp as well.
I don't plan on over boosting it, but i might consider having Giles rebuild my pump? I truly am happy with the current system.
Suspension Plain and simple. Lower the car to reduce wind resistance, and have it a wee bit stiffer and firmer to allow for better traction when driving. Adjustable shocks, and a simple 60/40 cup kit with moderate spring rates will allow the car to have all 4 tires firmly planted on the ground. Stiffer spring will allow it to reduce body roll to a certain degree allow for increase in corner entry speed, and having it lower will also reduct the air travelling below the car as well. All that and it looks pretty slick with it lowered to boot.
The plan is to change over all suspension bushings for the front LCA [lower control arms] to return the car to new suspension geometry as possible. increase the diameter of the front sway bar from 22mm to 25 to allow the car to have a more stable position IF i do decide to drive it at 10/10ths around corners. The rear trailing arm will also have new suspension bushings, and I will intend to add a 22mm sway bar for the rear for a more neutral driving for the car as well.
I want to install suspension braces to reduce body flex, and actually allow the car to utilize it's suspension for it's true purpose instead of absorbing the remainder of the shock in the frame of the car.
All topped off by a precision 4 wheel alignment to ensure that the car drives straight when the wheel is neutral.
weight reduction. I'll just lose more weight, and starve myself. That's the simple way without effecting the car
But in all seriousness, i don't know where to begin? do I strip all miscellaneous items and effect the comfort inside the cabin? I don't have a serious stereo in the car, just the deck, front 3 inchers and rear 6.5's
I want to install an amplifier [thus the higher rating alternator] but that will increase weight. I also wanted, at one point, install a dynamat style product as well. but those sound deadening material is HEAVY.
any thoughts?
Topic: to lower parasitic drive train loss and increase efficiency (Read 6061 times)
