VW MK1 fuel hose overhaul

[khanh.le]

The Bentley doesn't go into great detail and my old laptop with most/all of the early stages of my build cracked its motherboard (ALWAYS BUY an external HD!!!).

I am going through the fuel system on my 84 MK1 Rabbit and am trying to replace all/any related fuel hoses.  I know this topic has been covered, but I wanted to know the sizes, length, material type I should replace with, etc.  Namely where I can find more information on the uncommon lines, such as the clear line from the filler neck and the gravity valve setup (in pic below).  I have been to several of the familiar places (Autozone, Advance, etc.) and even a hydraulic shop with no help.



Again, most/all lines were faulty from age or destroyed accidentally in the build.  Here's a sneak peek at the build, I need to keep up a nice pace of work to get it going before I leave for the UK!



Thanks again,

Khanh

[theman53]

I can't see the pics clearly but it looks like you are looking at the feed and return line from the tank to the IP?

If so I just had to replace mine as the welder caught them on fire*read my build threads last couple pages if interested* The send and return are probably metric nylon, but I used 1/4 and 3/8 (maybe 5/16 instead of 3/8, cant remember now) for the return and feed respectively. This is just nylon air brake line that you can buy at any big truck shop on the cheap. You can connect them with either a barb fitting or a compression fitting to the remaining line. I went compression. You could go all the way to the tank and then you need to heat it to get it to form onto the stuff there. If you buy a 25 foot spool of line it is easy to connect it front or back and tape it to the old line to pull it through to make the other connection.

[Baron VonZeppelin]

If you want some clear/transparent hose - Tygon is the best route.
Libbybapa found a good economical supplier.
Try a search using -tygon- and you should find his thread.

[fatmobile]

Rabbit lines are metal.
 I've used 5/16" brake line.
Some of that brake line is hard to kink.
 Hardest bend was up front going through the body,
the rest was easy.

Alot easier to do with the engine and steering rack out.

Luckily I had a set I saved from a car I parted,
 I still had to remove one tie rod to snake them into the engine bay
 

[GEE-BEE]

FUEL INLET TANK 1-5/8 I.D.

THERMOID

www.hbdthermoid.com/images/industrial_hose/1158_fuel_sae30r2.pdf

All others tygon Yellow for fuel

Mcmastercarr.com

I had a Aircraft Hose shop for year's

Gee-Bee

[khanh.le]

Thanks guys for the responses.

I still have the metal fuel lines that run underneath and was going to replace the rubber hose leading to these.  Sorry for the crappy pics, but I was going to replace the fuel inlet hose (the one from the fuel neck).

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/MY_NWUvW20ZjEgD4nX0Ouw?feat=directlink

The two nylon/plastic lines leading from the gravity-breather valve, are 3/16 ID, one of which reduces down to an unknown size.  These lines look sort of like air brake line.

GB, I'll definitely check up on the tygon.  I've been reading up on tygon and the common "yellow" tygon you can buy at Ace Hardware, etc. may not be compatible with diesel/biodiesel? 

Back to the garage and the never-ending project.

[GEE-BEE]

Fuel inlet line ( drain )  was 5/8 i.d.

yellow is for fuel ( tygon )

clear for bio-diesel

all available per ft from McmasterCarr.com

GB