I found that sometimes those bolts can be "tight" but have something (like a pebble) jammed in there making it wobble. No harm in taking the pully completely off, making sure the surfaces are grit free (and there are no destroyed threads anywhere - mine were mangled from the bolts coming loose and the pully flopping around and i needed a new cogged sprocket, bolts and crank bolt) putting it back on again.
Also, i too made this arm Andrew shows here for removing the bolt.
Just a word of caution - if yours is as such the case of my engine this bolt will have never been removed before and will likely have a decent amount of locktite on it. I had a pipe on a breaker bar coming out of the front of the car with the brace against my driveway and my self and a friend raised the passenger wheel almost off the ground before it broke free.
I had previously made the tool out of 1/8th inch steel which sheared almost instantly. you have to go 1/4 and it has to be angle iron, or what ever it's called.
You also want to make sure you drill your holes on the correct side of the steel. You want the two bolts to be pushing into the steel not trying to pull out of it; as it will tear.