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41
IDI Engine / Franken Build, Need Parts Help 1y and 1.6TD Mixup
« Last post by vwpieces on May 13, 2026, 02:18:05 am »
I have been running 1.6L TD's in a MK1 for 20+ years and know those pretty well. Also have Spare Parts.
A few months ago a 1Y short block came my way. Nice condition too. I want to use "what I have" if at all possible.
How much Taller is the 1Y compared to the 1.6TD? and am I correct in thinking the height difference is all above the IP mounting bracket holes on block?

Only 1.6 hydraulic head in the hoard is not great to say the least. It is flat but the usual cracks between seats. And there are hairline cracks in the prechambers. And the cam has pits starting on 4 lobes. Exhaust valves are Real Hard to find in USA, But I dug deep and found Int and Exh valves. Did New guides and cut the seats, I already had a new set of the INA 034****** lifters... just need a cam. Finding an 068109101L cam in USA, good used or New has eluded me. I have taken some basic measurements, comparing an 068109101W solid to the L and other than slight ramp difference, W is very slightly flatter as it approaches the lobe tip. I ALSO see PartsPlaceInc selling One cam for solid and Hydraulic heads... The cheepAss in me wants to just put the W in the Hyd Head.

As for a cam, I did see Cascade German has a cam they say will work on a 1.6L It is the 028109101F, 028109101C, 028109101G, Stock Eurospec camshaft for all VW TD AAZ and TDI 1Z/AHU engine codes.
Note: On AAZ's you will need 1Z/AHU valves and spring.
Fits the following:
1996-1998 Jetta, Passat, Golf TDI
1993-1996 Jetta, Passat, Golf TD (AAZ)
Also fits 1.6L TD - read on TDIclub and VWdieselparts on how these work in 1.6L engines! You would want to get our hydraulic lifters to go with it too!
As quoted from the ebay listing.
So is this a drop in cam for the 1.6 hydraulic head? I searched all those part numbers on this site and nothing 1.6 head related.

Or should I just give up on a Cam for the 1.6 and buy a complete Chinese AAZ Head off eBay for $260 to $320

Other parts I have and would want to use if possible
1.6TD pump with LDA
Have a spare set of 1.6 TD 155bar injectors I have new nozzles in and pop tested.
I think the 1.6 TD injector hard lines are a possibility? or AAZ?
Conti timing belt 028109119P
068 head bolts and timing belt tensioner I already have and I think are correct to use.
Piston protrusion is 0.9144mm and I believe that is 2 Notch, 028103383BKJ,  ELRING 914856
Using the 068 cam gear, pump gear OK? Crank timing gear is the one from the 1Y.
Pretty sure None of my timing belt covers will work and I have some MK1&2 types on hand.
I should be covered for clutch/flywheel in 200 or 210 if I want to go there.
Misc gaskets and seals I should have, but oil filter housing to block I might not have, with the offset top hole.

I know a couple guys from vortex will recognize me.
Thank you in advance.
42
MK2 Golf/Jetta and Audi 5k / Re: AC and PS v-belt configs
« Last post by fatmobile on May 07, 2026, 08:42:47 pm »
If you put the alternator where the AC is in the top 2 and use the same blue belt.
If you have a picture of the alternator, you'll see 2 holes on the opposite side of the pivot bolt.
I'll try to get a picture but it won't be until next week.
43
MK2 Golf/Jetta and Audi 5k / Re: AC and PS v-belt configs
« Last post by oblique on May 05, 2026, 05:08:16 am »
thanks for the reply but its hard to visualize.

I found this on cabby-info.com..the later styles seem very similar to what the 1.6td looks like.

the full setup (including dual waterpump pulley w idler):


here we keep AC but remove PS...the compressor does not appear to change location and neither does the Alt...we just move Water Pump to single pulley.


removing AC but keeping PS the Alt DOES seem to shift downward slightly:


Its finding the required brackets and hardware that I want to know.
44
MK2 Golf/Jetta and Audi 5k / Re: AC and PS v-belt configs
« Last post by fatmobile on May 01, 2026, 10:07:27 pm »
 There is a 1/2" belt that will go from the crank> waterpump> alternator.
In fact I think it's the same one as the stock AC setup.

 When I use the MK2 AC alternator bracket and alternator on the MK1 non-AC setup I rotate the alternator down as far as it will go.
 Then I see where it touches and grind some away, from both the bracket and alternator, so it will rotate even farther down.
 This keeps the belt shorter, makes it so you can reuse the stock belt.
 It also requires the ford double alternator pully.
 I swear someone on here has a picture of it as their avatar.

Oh and there is one more trick.
 The adjuster bar. I use 2 pieces.
 Rotating the alternator down, put the adjuster bolt hole on the far side of the alternator.
 I don't know how many old alternator adjuster brackets you have.
 I used a short MK2 gasser bracket, it has a hole near the end. I bolted it to the holes using a (head bolt?) washer as a spacer.
Basically move the adjuster hole to down underneath the alternator.
 Then I bolt a curved and slotted brace to the lower bracket hole.

I thought the info was in the FAQs but couldn't find it.
 Thought I would have a picture somewhere too but I'll have to take one.
45
MK2 Golf/Jetta and Audi 5k / AC and PS v-belt configs
« Last post by oblique on May 01, 2026, 05:32:33 am »
Hey folks
Is anyone running AC with a manual rack? I want to convert my factory AC/PS 90 1.6TD Jetta to manual steering...just had an 86 Westy rack rebuilt but cannot find the v-belt diagrams. I could've sworn I've seen parts diagrams with all the different accessory combinations but cannot find anything...ideally I track down all the pulleys I need for a factory setup. Currently have the dual 'idler' style water pump pulley.

Also have a buddy who wants to ADD PS onto a non-AC 1.6TD 88 Jetta. Already have a good rack, pump, lines, etc. Also wants a clean setup. Whats the best route to go?
46
General / Internally Balanced Crankshaft?
« Last post by 1.6Lmarine on April 30, 2026, 04:53:52 am »
Good Morning,

Just a quick question today.

Is the crankshaft on a 1.6L TDI ME from a 1987 Jetta internally balanced?

Thanks so much!

Craig
47
I think the adjustment is good.  12-14 psi @ 4300 in second.  Shifts between the gears seems better as the turbo holds the spool up better now.  Not going to futz with it anymore.
48
30psi boost didn't make me go faster. I think due to back pressure.
 I actually have more power with around 15-20 psi with the 1.6D.
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I had such trouble with previous heads that when I finally got the hydraulic head I wanted to cautiously approach the boost level.  Now that I am confident that the head will hold pressure I will tweak the level up.  Will I be doing 30 psi?

Likely NOT!
50
You will be wondering why you didn't do it sooner!!
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