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Messages - RunninWild

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Parts for Sale/Wanted / Freshly built AAZ
« on: October 10, 2017, 06:15:47 pm »
Think I've just about hit the final nail in the coffin on my samurai build. I'm just running into too many problems and I don't have the time or desire to fix the thing. I think its time to admit defeat and cut my losses
Specs are as follows:
Freshly rebuild AAZ block with maybe 100km on it since rebuild
1st oversized KS pistons
Arp head and main studs
Factory new AAZ head
Giles injection pump
He211w turbo with t25 manifold
G60 modified intake manifold
K&N Apollo intake (loud)
New glow plugs and timing belt and tensioner
Injectors could probably use a rebuild but it runs pretty well. Currently peaks at 27psi of boost and has tons of power. The block is painted ford blue the head and accessories are like an off black, the timing belt cover and the intake are bubble paint black and the valve cover is andonized blue. Its very clean, starts well and runs well but it smokes a bit which I'm thinking is due to the lack of mileage. Not sure what its worth I'm thinking like $3500? located in Langley BC.

IDI Engine / Re: AAZ, 10mm pump, vnt turbo and 02A gearbox
« on: August 16, 2017, 01:55:53 pm »
Cant help you with the Speedo but I originally wanted a vnt like yourself. I eventually gave up because it just seemed too complicated to get the vanes to function properly. I eventually got a holset he211 off eBay second hand for very cheap from a Chinese seller. I've got my build to the test driving stages and although I don't have a functioning tach at the moment at stock settings the holset is making 26psi, I've got my giles pump set about as high as I can without the idle going crazy and egts don't get much above 1000f without an intercooler. Its making tons of power and is extremely fun to drive. Highly recommend the holsets if you are willing to put in the work to mount it. Without a tach its hard to judge when it starts making boost but id guess the lda is opening around 2000-2500rpm and as soon as that happens the boost instantly jumps to 26psi and there is a massive increase in power.

IDI Engine / Re: AAZ with CJF Gearbox
« on: August 15, 2017, 01:26:03 pm »
Nice! That thing pulls pretty hard! Are you keeping and eye in egts? How much boost are you making?

IDI Engine / Re: 1.6TD - Can I use this cylinder head?
« on: July 28, 2017, 12:32:36 am »
Cant you get sleeves and line bore new caps?

IDI Engine / Re: 1.6TD - Can I use this cylinder head?
« on: July 27, 2017, 11:05:00 am »
Looks ok from the pics. Why are you questioning it? You need to clean up the bottom and inspect the precups for cracks. You should also measure the deck for warpage and inspect the valves/seats.

IDI Engine / Re: 25psi boost, rebuilt k14, ARP studs and AAZ MLS
« on: July 03, 2017, 01:20:25 pm »
I think you'll be alright with that setup. 25psi from a k14 is on the upper limit for that turbo if I remember right. Do you have any mods to the injection pump? Like grooves mentioned egt is going to be the biggest problem. If you can get it to push that much boost/fuel with acceptable egt's you shouldn't really need to worry about the internals.

IDI Engine / Re: First start after rebuild
« on: July 01, 2017, 05:45:40 pm »
Got a battery charger and started it up again. Shaking is gone and seems smoother but still sounds like something is a little off. I've heard a loud noise coming from one of the cylinders (ping?) occasionally. Its not a continuing noise but I've definitely heard it on a few firing cycles in a row. Really hope I didn't bend a valve... Running a 1 notch gasket and the protrusion on all the cylinders was in spec for a 1 notch.

Got the engine almost up to running temp roughly 170f for oil and water before shutting it down. Fixed a minor oil leak from the turbo feed line but other then that nothing major that's standing out to me. Is it normal for new engines to smoke? There is a decent amount of grey smoke from the exhaust and it definitely starts pouring out when the revs get past a certain point. Could it be the oil I coated the cylinders with or would that burn off almost instantly?

IDI Engine / First start after rebuild
« on: July 01, 2017, 02:08:29 am »
Started pretty easily but it shakes really bad and just sounds off to me. Anyone have any idea's? Only ran it for a few seconds as my wiring isn't even close to being ready. Just wanted to see how it would run. Air in the lines maybe? Sounds like its firing on all cylinders but something is definitely off.

IDI Engine / New engine
« on: June 11, 2017, 12:32:40 pm »
hey guys. Havn't been around here lately. I've rebuilt my aaz in my samurai and put a holset he221w on it. Havn't quite started it up yet as I've been doing about a million other things on the truck but figured I'd throw up some pics because everyone likes looking at clean engines

I've still got a bit of work to do but my air filter and intake couplers should arrive in a week or 2 and it should be ready to go by then! I just finished the hard part of the exhaust and plumbed all the coolant lines yesterday. The engine bay is practically done, the biggest thing left is putting in the transfercase and driveshafts and fixing up my wiring!

IDI Engine / Re: Help diagnosing starting issue again...
« on: June 11, 2017, 12:19:32 pm »
Yes crack all four injector nuts fairly loose and have someone watch them as you crank the engine until fuel starts squirting out of each, then tighten them. I'm willing to bet this is your issue. I also usually pump the throttle while cranking, especially on cold starts. The pumps are mechanical and more fuel going in the engine typically helps them start a lot easier. My golf was hard to start without the throttle and even if it would get going it would usually choke out and die as soon as it fired. holding the throttle made it start first crank every time and would never choke out after it did start. When you do eventually get it to fire you will probably need to give it 1/2- full throttle for a few seconds until all the air bubbles are purged from the pump/injectors, at this point it should idle fine and start easily. Assuming your glow plugs are good that is...

I highly suggest a cheap 12v inline lift pump. You don't need it running all the time but it makes bleeding the system way easier whenever you do play with the timing or the pump/injectors/fuel filter. I have mine pre-filter and bare wires which I just put in the battery clamps when needed.

Parts for Sale/Wanted / Re: 1Y Intake Manifold
« on: May 13, 2017, 12:28:15 am »
Could you measure from the to the top row of bolt holes to the top of the manifold please? I just discovered i dont have hood clearance for my g60 intake and I don't want to go back to the stock aaz one if I can avoid it!

IDI Engine / Re: Building a New Rabbit Heart - 1.9 TD
« on: April 13, 2017, 01:37:12 am »
And if you are expecting the power levels where you would need forged rods I would highly suggest getting a block girdle. Arp studs help the main cap issue but they don't solve it.

IDI Engine / Re: Building a New Rabbit Heart - 1.9 TD
« on: April 13, 2017, 01:29:22 am »
Honestly the mods you are talking about are big money. I just finished putting together my aaz today. I went stock everything except for arp main and head studs. I dont believe there is a listing for rod studs and from the research I've done they aren't really necessary. It's the main caps that typically let go. Your money would be better spent on a holset he200wg turbo, a decent intercooler, a good exhaust and a Giles pump. That should give you more power then you would need and be plenty reliable. Porting is cheap if you do it yourself and will help make some power. While I want decent power from my build I'm worried about the rest of the drivetrain so I didn't go above what I suggested. I'm hoping for 150hp and 200ft-lbs and a long service life from it. I can't give you an exact cost of what my rebuild cost but ive got $1050 (all Canadian dollars) in machining, about $300 in my holset (used from eBay) then probably another grand in pistons and other parts. That's not including a new head that I had bought years ago for $600. Stuff really adds up quick. Don't be in such a huge rush to drop thousands on getting every ounce of power possible. Figure out what you need and will make you happy and go from there.

IDI Engine / Re: AAZ Ring gap?
« on: April 09, 2017, 10:04:19 pm »
The thing is the block was already bored and I'm installing new pistons and rings. I was wondering if I should try and even them out a bit closer but I just went ahead and installed it all as is. I doubt the machine shop would re-bore it and pay for new pistons for me for the next size just because I'm on the edge of spec so it is what it is. These rings came with the pistons (ks) and pre-installed on them already. If oil consumption is an issue in the future I'll get some file to fit ones and gap them better. The wear limit according to the bentley is 1.0mm and 1.2mm so they should still have plenty of life in them and hopefully oil consumption wont be an issue for a long time. This is "my baby" so it will have regular oil changes and be very well maintained. Its going in my samurai which I don't plan on daily driving for very long so I'm hoping for 20+ years out of this engine. Assuming I can make the truck live that long anyways haha.

IDI Engine / Re: AAZ Ring gap?
« on: April 09, 2017, 05:43:54 pm »
I just got the crank installed and measured the gap on all the rings. They are kind of all over the place and 2 rings are right at the edge of spec.
Piston 1:
Piston 2:
Piston 3:
Piston 4:
Between .381mm-.406mm
Just under .508mm

Basically the last 2 rings on piston #4 are just on the edge of spec. I guess my question is, is it worth hand filing all the rings so each cylinder has a close to equal gap, or should I just install them as is? I'm not going to spend $100 on a special ring filer, so is it worth the risk of messing up the square edge to have an equal gap? Is there much of a performance or reliability difference in doing so? I don't really care about getting every last hp out of this thing, I'm more interested in having optimal compression and minimal oil consumption.

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