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Messages - RunninWild

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IDI Engine / Re: 150hp+ aaz build
« on: February 05, 2018, 06:45:24 pm »
Arp head/main studs, Giles pump and a holset he220wg turbo

Honestly i dont see much of a market for this. I think your barebones ecu idea is great. I also think a very basic glowplug controller might sell if it was cheap enough but it seems like you are overcomplicating it. From my personal experience once the engine is started having the glowplugs on or off hasnt made a difference in performance. Granted i havnt ran my engine in extreme cold so i cant comment towards that.

 A solid state controller hooked up to a basic 5-10 second timer that is activated by the fuel cutoff solenoid wire would be handy if it was cheap and compact. I just don't think the average person cares enough to have all the extra control you are looking to provide. I have my glowplugs wired individually to a 4 fuse block which is then powered by a trailer solenoid and controlled by a switch on my dash. Total cost was under $40 and it works reliably with the ability to diagnose individual glowplugs.

I just dont think you could make it cheap enough to be able to sell many.

if you are going to go with a box with a lcd screen I would highly suggest adding the ability to hookup outside sensors to monitor and set alarms for water/oil temp, boost pressure, oil pressure and egt similar to those aftermarket programmers used in diesel trucks. Having a small box that fits on the dash that monitors and controls everything would be amazing! if this could be done affordably it would potentially save quite a bit on purchasing external gauges. I also like the ability to connect it to a smart phone to be able to adjust fueling and boost levels.

I think adding individual control to each glowplug its getting to the point where its adding complexity and running a lot of wires for novice people. Having a single signal wire for the glowplugs that would hook up to a external solenoid would be much simpler and cheaper.

Every electronic component you add above and beyond what is absolutely necessary will reduce reliability and increase your chances of CELs and limp-home mode - assuming it runs at all.

I absolutely agree with that. 

My point was that each of the items I listed benefits overall efficiency and diagnostics.  Without the added components I listed, I would prefer 'simply' fitting a mechanical pump and injectors to match.  Without the added items, I doubt you would be able to exceed the mechanical pump in efficiency and with or without them, you won't exceed the mechanical pump for reliability.  I think that you would also have more effort into the development and installation and would lose the diagnostic capabilities without the OBD2 port.

All of that said, I think it sounds like a fun project to undertake and I wish you all success with it.   

I don't think the point Is to improve on mechanical efficiency or reliability. The point is to give an option to run the pd diesel as an easy swap for people that arnt electronically inclined. People that don't have the skills or patience to stare at wiring diagrams for hours and cut, splice and hope everything they did worked. It gives confidence that it was done in a way that will work good enough and they wont have to trace possible wiring issues when diagnosing a problem. People go mtdi because of the simplicity, not to improve power or efficiency. Mtdi isn't an option on PD engines from what I understand. This would literally be the next best thing. Its not meant to be an option for people that want to run a tdi to its full potential, Those people always have and always will go a full tdi. This is for the people that want to bolt the engine in, plug in a few wires and run it. It also opens up a whole new generation of engines, ones most likely to have the least mileage and most likely to be in better condition. It also would save a huge headache in sourcing/modifying a rover pump to run mtdi or a lot of expense in getting a hybrid pump built.

I personally can swap in a diesel engine into a vehicle and I can run the basic wiring involved for sensors, glowplugs and the fuel cutoff solenoid. I can do this and have a functioning engine. I know my limits and I know personally I would never be able to modify 2 harnesses to run a e-tdi unless I had significant help. This basic harness and ecu would be for people like myself.

Rabbid79 I don't know anything about tuning of tdis or any of the electronics involved. Would it be possible to build the ecu in a way that it could have a couple of dials hooked up to control fueling and boost?

I think if you could make a barebones harness/ecu it would do quite well. I really couldnt see you having trouble selling it. Even just marketing on forums would probably get you plenty of business. If you expanded onto making motor mounts and adapter plates i think it could take off really well. That or pairing with acme adapters or something along those lines would probably workout.

Im not sure how keen Jeff at acme would be but if he was interested in expanding his products to offer newer engines it would only help boost sales in my opinion. Like you said idis are getting older and harder to find these days. Would be pretty good future proofing

IDI Engine / Re: Gauge for stock oil temp sender (and psi sender?)
« on: January 24, 2018, 11:32:02 am »
Yeah the stock pressure sensor is more of a switch. I think its set to like 11psi or something like that. Its more of an alarm for like no pressure. Youll need a aftermarket sender to get a accurate reading.

IDI Engine / Re: giles pump tuned for k24 paired with k03
« on: January 24, 2018, 12:34:12 am »
The only issue i can think of would be boost enrichment once the lda opens. For a k24 at high boost its probably cut pretty aggressively. You would probably be better off swapping a lda with a 1.6td one

IDI Engine / Re: Head Bolts or Studs (1588)
« on: January 22, 2018, 06:47:38 pm »
No studs goto like 125ft-lbs. Yeah just go with bolts and torque them properly.

IDI Engine / Re: Head Bolts or Studs (1588)
« on: January 22, 2018, 05:25:30 pm »
Studs can hold more boost and are reusable. A stock engine wont see an improvement really with studs over bolts assuming you use proper torque sequences. That being said the older blocks that use 11mm(i think) bolts are prone to cracking and pulling the threads out. In that circimstance a stud puts less pressure on the threads and can have more reliable results.

Hard starting is more of a compression issue. That can be caused by the head gasket but more often its worn rings or valves. A blown headgasket will have more symptoms then just low compression though.

IDI Engine / Re: idle adjustment after fuel screw adjustment
« on: January 16, 2018, 06:11:39 pm »
Yes turn it counter clockwise about 1/8-1/4 turn and see if the idle settles down.

On that note does anyone know if its possible to calm the idle down from turning the screw in? My giles pump is as far in as i can get it without affecting the idle and im not getting enough fuel for my Holset. Sorry to thread jack but i figured it was relevant to the topic...

IDI Engine / Re: Rebuilding: 1.6TD JX Turbo Diesel engine
« on: October 17, 2017, 03:34:12 pm »
Just save yourself the headache and have the machine shop measure everything. Getting precise measurements is a skill and it requires expensive tools. It would be foolish to invest all that money and have some of your measurements being off.

Cleaning up the cylinders isnt really the issue. Measuring them for spec and out of round is. Sure you might be able to get the rust out but its completely pointless and a waste of time if they need to be bored anyways. Just bring it to the shop and tell them to clean and inspect everything.

Regards to cleaning and painting. Hot tanking should get it clean enough that you dont need to sand blast. I used a por15 engine paint kit on my block with good results. Just make sure everything is as clean and grease free before painting and you should have good results.

IDI Engine / Re: Rebuilding: 1.6TD JX Turbo Diesel engine
« on: October 16, 2017, 06:23:07 pm »
The diesels are machined to tight tolerances, much tighter then most shops are used to and comfortable with. If you explain that to them and make sure they go by spec rather then rule of thumb you should be fine.

Front im shaft bearings are easy, its the rear one that are the pain. Just get the shop to press them in, it will save you the headache of finding or building a special tool.

Not much difference between the engine codes. The shop will tell you what size bearings to order. On assembly you use plasti-gauge to measure clearance to confirm everything is in spec for the crank. A Bentley isn't necessary, all the information can be found online through google. Ring gap is measured with feeler gauges and you will need a ring compressor for installing the pistons. A ring tool is helpful as well. just make sure everything is as clean as possible, check everything twice and use new hardware and torque everything to spec. Also use high quality bearings and piston rings. I've heard prothes pistons are decent and affordable but his rings are junk.

IDI Engine / Re: Rebuilding: 1.6TD JX Turbo Diesel engine
« on: October 16, 2017, 03:48:28 pm »
take the block crank, main caps, rods and pistons to a machine shop. Have them magnaflux and hot tank the block and measure the clearances for everything. When you have that information you will know what needs to be done. That will tell you what parts you need to order and what kind of machining work you will need. You are probably looking at getting the cylinders bored and honed and the deck skimmed. The crank is usually in spec and just needs a polishing, but its possible your main caps need line boring. Its also easiest to get the shop to install new rod bushings and im shaft bearings as they are a pain. The final assembly you can do yourself and is fairly easy if you take your time. Get a bentley, it will go over all the steps you need to take when assembling the block. theres engine assembly videos on youtube, as well as videos on how to check ring gap and piston protrusion. Just take your time and good luck. I built my first aaz in the spring, was great fun.

IDI Engine / Re: 1.6TD low on power
« on: October 13, 2017, 11:18:19 am »
There's only so much you can do. Like Libby said the low compression will create smoke and no amount of adjustments will make up for it. Its just a Smokey combination which is why most people dont run it. A block heater or oil pan heater would be your best bet for cold starts.

IDI Engine / Re: 1.6L IDI performance
« on: October 13, 2017, 02:27:12 am »
if the valve cover has 3 nuts on top its a 1.9l. the duramax intercooler will probably hurt performance more then anything. get an egt, turn up the fuel and install a mbc. theres a few pump mods you can make as well. check the faq

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