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Messages - ORCoaster

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1
I have to admit I too am chasing some smoke troubles.  I don't like the black in the back, seems like a waste of fuel to me.  I am trying for smileage, (Hagar).  I put a turbo on a bit ago and I think the IP I have was tuned for a different sized engine, 1.9 versus my 1.6. 

I am not willing to just change one thing at a time, Not a Good strategy, I do write down the changes like timing, number of turns on this or that.  I finally really looked at the cone shape of the boost pin I have in the LDA.  We read that we need to take note of the position of the dot or mark on the rubber diaphragm.  But I think someone had pulled mine out and gave it a twist so I was not on the max slope for the cone.  I will try it at max, then min, then on one of the sides in-between. 

I was having trouble backing up a med steep slope. The engine would rev up but then die as I started to engage the clutch and really get a load on it.  Only if I really stomped on it and had black smoke rolling coal out the back would it back up.  I gave it a little more pump pressure by tapping in the regulator.  Then changed the timing a bit more retarded and that seems to have taken care of the power at clutch play and reduced the lag on the timing.

I reset the big spring tension under the LDA by putting more tension against the diaphragm.  Not willing to change it more than a half turn at a time for now.  I will run it like it is and watch the tailpipe as I drive.  If I get over to the middle of the lane I can see the color of the smoke where there is a diving line between the two lanes.  I just need to look in the sideview mirror adjusted downwards. 

I think I may fill it up and see what kind of mileage I have so far and then do it again in another week or so.  If I can get it to go in the upwards direction from the current mark that is what I am hoping for.   

2
Almost sounds like you don't have the fuel screw on the drivers side screwed in quite enough.  Like lacking 1/8 to 1/4 turn.  Also I think you may need to look for a loose wire or bad connection on the temp sender for the glow plugs.  Mine is around the coolant flange on the Rabbit, 1.6 engine.  With that wire on and a warm engine the glows don't turn on.  They draw lots of amps and may be setting up the alternator to come on in an instant if anything else is going.
GP's on all the time is going to burn them up too.  Not so good.  Maybe a 12 volt measurement check on the most accessible one after about 10 seconds to see if indeed they turned off. 

Very odd behavior, But hey it's a VW, what do you expect?

3
Diesel Swaps / Re: return line on injection pump
« on: August 12, 2019, 08:26:50 pm »
Jim P., is it the same diameter as that line that goes to the injectors?  Like 3.5 mm diameter?  Is it on the top of a funny looking part on the very top of the pump, the LDA?  Is this a TD Pump?  If so it is where you connect the boost line from the intake manifold to gain extra fuel when boosting. 

Picture would really help us here. 

4
Well you could drop in a new engine that runs right but I don't think you are looking for that solution.

If I understand the symptoms you have a low idle until the glow plug relay turns off, about 10 seconds after starting the engine, correct?

During that time I watch my alternator gauge, something VW forgot to install stock.  I see it shoot up to close to 30 amps at initial start, then it drops to around 15 for a bit then near Zero when that relay goes click.  At the same time the volt gauge, yeah I love real data not some stupid led glowing at me, goes from 12 or so to 13.8 once the click is heard. 

What that tells me is that the glow plugs, the starting of the car and running the heater at start up demands a bit of juice from the alternator.  That shouldn't drag the engine down if you have the RPM set at the recommended spot.  Do you know if you are at 850 or 750?  Makes a big difference.  Thing shakes like crazy at 750.  Does the Alternator get hot to the touch at startup?  It should be warm but not hot to the touch.  If so you may have one that is bad and just has to work too hard to keep up with the demand.  55 amp or better in VW remember.

As to how you have adjusted the throttle and fuel screws I can only say that without a good look and hear of the engine I am not sure all is well with it.  Adjusting the throttle is odd in that you turn it counter clockwise to reset it to get better fueling at times, not the other way around.  Marking the position of the throttle BEFORE you adjust it is also a good idea, No, it is the only way to be sure you are going the right way and the right amount.  One of those splines at a time.

There is another adjustment to the internal pressure of the first stage of the IP that might be affecting all of your woes.  The internal pump pressure is regulated by tapping the inside part of the that button on the front of the pump in with a punch.  More often than not it goes too far and you have to remove it, and reset it from the beginning.  I use the outflow of the fuel at the back of the pump to gauge if the internal pressure is close. If I really want to get it spot on I have a fitting and gauge I use.  But at 1000 rpm you should be pumping a liter of fluid out the back.  Just use a 2 liter bottle and mark it half way.  That gives you plenty of time to shut it all down, drain the container, and tap the button down a bit more. 

Hope that helps.

5
mTDI Mechanical TDI Conversions / Re: What's this injection pump?
« on: August 07, 2019, 11:48:33 pm »
Not sure about the pump but that intercooler really isn't properly installed. Hot air from the radiator cooling the engine coolant is not going to be doing anything for cooling the air going to the intake manifold.  Should be installed in front of radiator not behind it.  Unless it is sectioned off and given it's own air supply.


6
TDI Engine -General Info / Re: 1y pump on 1z engine
« on: August 06, 2019, 08:27:40 pm »
SDTS, Sounds like you are right on the edge of the fuel screw keeping the engine running.  Try turning it in by a 1/4 or 1/8 of a turn.  Should increase the idle a very little.  But more importantly it will get you that tiny bit of fuel earlier when you are playing the clutch or adding an electric load.

If that gets the idle up too high for you, like 1050 RPM then turn the idle adjustment screw on the back of the throttle arm to a setting that is more to your liking. 


7
IDI Engine / Re: Radiator fan switch Temps.
« on: July 31, 2019, 11:08:56 pm »
I would opt for the higher fan switch over the lower thermostat.  Diesels like it warm in the winter and summer actually.  Better to go that way then a low thermos and have it open too much in the winter and fall giving you poor mileage.  I run a 93 degree stat in mine that's C not F by the way.  But I am on the Oregon coast and temps hover around 50 a lot so it is necessary to have heat on for defroster time on those mornings. 

8
General / Re: What did you do to your car today?
« on: July 15, 2019, 10:24:18 pm »
Rube aint got nuttin on me!

What was I trying to accomplish?  Good straight forward question, glad you asked. 

I was looking to set the pressure on a set of 130 and 155 bar injectors from the multitude of spares I have laying around.  I agree that getting the proper pressure balance across a set really makes a difference in how it idles and runs.  But I didn't have that equipment so I decided to go an alternative method.

I can still see the type of spray that is coming out the end, so is it properly misting or straight streaming and going to bore into the piston?  That is a visual accounting for proper operation is it not?  Then there is the fact that I can turn the pump at various speeds and note if there is any difference at higher or lower RPM.  I can also time the amount of the operation on a set and come back and measure with one of those small syringes for volume.  I can figure out a fair balance between the sets that way.  I tried a comparison with two of the 130 and two of the 155 bar injectors and can definitely note a difference in volume in a one minute run.


So I am not trying to be old school with the pressure thing.  I am trying to do something different and to me it makes sense.  And little in this world makes sense to me now. 

Mostly I was trying to figure out which of the injectors I have are worth using.  Which ones are not atomizing correctly and which ones might get better if I cleaned them up. 

After going through about 6 of the worst ones I only saw one nozzle that was sent to the trash can.  All others cleaned up well enough with a wire brush and a small grinding wheel.  Just kidding, only cloth and paper used.  Solvent works wonders. 

I will pull a set off the Rabbit and see if the 130 bar set I have now will make it run any better.  It is a bit blue on the hard pulls.  Might actually be valve stem seals.  Oil pressure is kinda high, 100 psi

9
General / Re: What did you do to your car today?
« on: July 14, 2019, 11:24:59 pm »
I can't believe that in this town where log trucks and diesels outnumber sports cars 10 to 1 there are no, nada, none, places that will service a set of fuel injectors.  I get responses like, just buy new ones they are cheap, to we send all ours to Eugene or Portland.

What a waste, and not exactly helpful for a Home Fixer.  So out of desperation I thought I would just build a pop tester from a hydraulic jack.  Then I hit the pause button.  Wait a minute, I have two spare fuel pumps sitting around doing nothing.  Time to make a four port pop tester. 


I put the bracket in the vice, bolted up a pump and proceeded to wire it with a 9 volt battery, some hoses and then I found my adapter set for my socket set.  I needed to put the 1/4 inch drive I use in my drill driver in a regular drill chuck and then upsize that 1/4 inch to a 3/8ths and slap on the 19 mm socket to drive the front end. 

I found it works just dandy but now I need containment around the injectors.  I tried a simple baggie so I could see the stream coming off each one.  The first few squirts on some of them was straight stream that cut right through the thin plastic.  So I am fabricating some plastic jars around them.  They will just hang off the nut in top of the injectors. 

I have about 4 sets of 4 injectors that I want to rebuild so this multi port apparatus is going to make it faster than doing them one by one. 

Anyone else have such a setup?

10
TDI Engine -General Info / Re: Boost Gauge (lke to install one)
« on: July 11, 2019, 10:59:49 pm »
I finally flipped my engine over to a 1.6 L turbo and I was using a VAC/Boost gauge to monitor the brake booster but now it is on the turbo doing boost duty. 

I run an AutoMeter gauge, 2 1/16, white face with black numbers and a red sweep needle.  It is illuminated and seems to be well made.  As for instructions, I am pretty sure it came with something more than the classic four boxes with illustrations in them and no words.  Not sure of the price but thinking somewhere in the 30 to 33 range. 

Some gauges do not come with the 1/8 inch nylon tubing and the fittings to hook it to a 1/8 inch threaded port.  I had an oil gauge for the turbo that had me buying a separate kit for that purpose.  So watch if the gauge comes with hardware or you will be down to the local parts place buying a kit.

11
Diesel Swaps / Re: Rabbit '78 how hard is it to add 1.6TD?
« on: July 10, 2019, 11:53:36 pm »
78 Rabbit would have the 1.5 liter engine and most likely a 4 spd transmission.  If I was looking to replace the engine I would look for a 1.9 TD from an early Jetta, and try to grab the 5spd trans with it.  A new shift kit for the five on the floor and the rest is pretty much a bolt on.

But, But before you go that route you could just put a turbo on the 1.5.  Use one from the same era of the jetta mentioned above.  I just tonight got my truck back from the exhaust shop and they did a fab job on putting on a 2.25 pipe, muffler and redoing the flange off the turbo.  They needed to cut it and rotate it about 180 degrees.  I grabbed it used from a guy that had the other style of mount of the turbo.  Exhaust needs to flow out the drivers side on a Rabbit.  Turbo mounts up top. 

I bet all in all I didn't spend 900 bucks on the turbo, intakes, and exhaust and all the needed hoses and oil lines.  Drilled the oil pan myself rather than try to find one off an engine that already had it on there. 

How does it run?  Sooo, smooth and boosts to about 10 psi right around 2500 RPM.  I am blowing some coal so injectors and IP tuning up for this weekend.  Been trying to do this project for over a year.  Things just got in the way.  Hoping for more mileage and that extra kick of power when needed.  I already noticed the EGTs were way down from what I was running on the slight hills in town.  Dropped about 300 degrees and under boost it barely rises. 

Lots to do on a old sitter like that.  Seals didn't get lubed, bearings and brakes likely dry as well.  Engine might be the later thing to be working on.


12
Troubleshooting / Re: Modified ALH : acceleration backfires ??
« on: July 04, 2019, 10:40:40 pm »
EGTs sound normal to me.  I cruise in the 400 range most city driving and 600 if doing 50 on the hwy.  Put the foot down hard to make a long hill in fourth and I will see 1200 at the top of the hill.  All within range I say.

Get the VCDS back and adjust the fuel and I think you will be fine.

13
IDI Engine / Re: 1.6TD head on a AAZ?
« on: July 02, 2019, 07:24:10 pm »
So Knowing that you have a greater compression ratio going than stock can't retarding the timing adjust for that?  Otherwise you would have a very sharp clack going there. 

Rather than the normal 1.6 timing of 88 to 93 could you not try say 85 and see what that gives for performance and then either reduce it some more or bump it up to 88 and see what it sounds and runs like.

Just playing with those what if's in my head.

14
IDI Engine / Re: 1.6TD max fuel screw question.
« on: June 26, 2019, 11:11:38 pm »
Sounds more like timing issue to me.  Once it gets rolling the advance gets over far enough that you come near normal and it starts to run right.  Have you done a timing check on it?  Got the tools?  You may just be able to loosen the IP for starters and see if you push it towards the head it picks up RPM and smooths out for now.  Very tiny movements are all it takes. 

Mark a line across the IP and the bracket it is secured to so you can come back to that adjustment if moving the pump makes things worse.

Best I can think of for someone with a new to them Rabbit and no manual or specific tools.

15
IDI Engine / Re: valve shims getting thinner
« on: June 20, 2019, 10:43:38 pm »
Perhaps the shop rebuilding the head took the time to grind the valves off on top to get a more uniform set of shims under the lifters.  They may have had a large stock of that range and tried to use them up.   

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Canada Catalys