Canada Catalys

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Topics - Syncroincity

Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5
Posting this for a Facebook Vanagon traveler that is stranded in Alaska with a ruined turbo on his 1Z TDI-powered van.

He has a GT-15 wastegate turbocharger, with separate manifold, seeking a replacement or compatible, with 3-bolt triangle manifold flange.
Not equipped for a VNT.

I've directed him here to sign up to view/answer posts.


« on: August 21, 2015, 05:20:20 am »
OK, this is a weird one.
Background; Engine was running fine, no issues. Turbo oil line broke, had to get a flatbed ride home.
After I replaced the oil line, took it out for a drive.
Seemed normal, until it reached operating temperature.
At that point, whenever I accelerated up to about 3200 rpm, the fuel seemed to cut off. Completely. It was like hitting a brick wall.
The fuel simply shut off, and will remain shut off until 1. I let off the pedal completely and 2. it drops back below 3200 rpm.
I changed the fuel filter, thinking the flatbed ramp had stirred up sediment or something, but it's the same.
It does NOT do this when the engine is cold.
It happens regardless of throttle position, even holding the pedal steady, if I go down a hill and the van drifts up in speed, the fuel cuts at the same point. Full throttle or cruise or slack throttle, same results.
Power output seems to be the same as before. Pulls like a freight train, until it doesn't, and everyone's head snaps forward and they look at me like I'm a dick doing it on purpose... :-*
It is also suddenly difficult to start, even on a hot day without plugs and cold start, and stutters and smokes white like it's below zero out.

At this point I'm thinking the pump jumped time somehow... maybe the governor is kicking in? It used to rev freely, this came on all of a sudden, after a non-fuel repair. WTF??  ???

GTG section / Litchfield, CT VW show this Sunday, anyone going?
« on: June 13, 2014, 11:33:08 pm »
All VW car show and swap meet to be held at the Harwinton Fairgrounds, 150 Locust Road, Harwinton , Connecticut from 9am to 3pm. Car show with 40 classes of VWs to enter, both aircooled and watercooled. Over 100 awards given out plus many best of awards. Show registration ends at noon. Awards given out at 3:30. Swap meet with over 100 vendors and swappers selling both new and used parts. Indoor spaces are available for vendors. Up front vendors can set up Saturday afternoon. Free food Sat night at 6:30 at the annual Bug in Bash held at the fairgrounds. Vendor gates open at 7am Sunday morning. Clean restrooms with attendants. Camping at fairgrounds for $15 a vehicle. Vendor spots at $30. Spots are approx 20 x 20 feet in size. Up front vendors at $45. Spectators-$9 for adults, kids free. Additional info contact Chuck @ 860 283 5256 or [email protected]

I'll be there!  ;D My first real road trip!

I have a nice fat 120 amp alternator out of a TDI attached to my AAZ install, the problem was; no W terminal to run the tach. I used a MKII "2.22" diesel tach fitted into my original Vanagon instrument cluster. I used this alternator to provide; 1. Clutched over-run pulley to take the strain off the AAZ crank nose with the serpentine setup, and 2. AMPS, baby.

Plastic cover and easily detachable brush pack... remove a few screws and you're looking at the stator windings. Check your brush condition while you're in here.

Photos are representative; not my alternator.

On these alts, the winding wires terminate in these little loops that mechanically crimp and lock them in. The outermost ones are what you need, one that does not connect to a diode. Red arrows in the pic below. (You can see the diodes below the other connections, round, fairly obvious.)  Find one with a little space between the winding wires, or use a screwdriver blade to spread one open a bit. Clean with a wire brush to expose good bare metal, and loop a wire end into it and re-crimp the winding ends. Solder the wire. I had to use a butane torch, my soldering iron wouldn't quite heat everything up enough.

In the Vanagon, connect that wire to the solid blue wire in your junction box if present.

Result: tachometer reading! I have no way to verify the RPMs, but it seems close to where it should be, a bit high maybe... shows about 900 at idle. The serpentine pulley is slightly smaller than the v-belt pulley. I'll have to go in and find the adjustment pot on the tach one of these days.

Parts for Sale/Wanted / Westach EGT & probe FS
« on: March 29, 2014, 05:41:26 am »

IDI Engine / AAZ loses power at 3KRPM (x-post from Samba)
« on: August 25, 2013, 03:49:00 am »
Guys, take a look at this post and see if anyone has an idea that can help him...

Quote from: Jeff's Old Volks Home
1.9AAZ based Syncro Weekender, Giles Super pump, VNT 17-22, water to air charge cooler, Donaldson air box, balanced injectors, big valve head, h-beam rods, crank girdle, ARP everything, all NEW less than 10000km ago.
  Happened all of a sudden a couple tanks of fuel ago, maybe 1000km ago, at 3000rmp on the dot, the boost gauge drops from about 14psi to zero, just like a charge cooler pipe comes off, but- if I let off the boost and power comes right back, and if I keep the RPM below 2900, you'd never know anything was wrong. Acts the same hot or cold.
  I've messed with my VNT controller, I even manually adjusted it while my son was driving- it acts exactly the same. I moved the pump timing from 1.05mm to 1.25mm back to ,90mm, acts the same. I replaced both fuel filters, acts the same. I even checked the .055' orifice in the return line banjo bolt, it's fine. EGT never exceeds 1000f even on the longest of pulls.
  I did remove my aneroid cover and diaphragm is fine, the fuel system is intact, letting air in the tank as fuel is displaced.
   Normally this van is a real power house... It's a good one, I'm used to solving these problems for other people, now it's my van that has ADD, like me.  :)
Any wisdom from one diesel vanagon guru to another?

Parts for Sale/Wanted / Dr. Diesel's Passat Syncro back on the market
« on: July 27, 2013, 11:39:32 pm »

I'd be all over this if it wasn't too new to import without federalizing.  ::)

General / Bosch VE pump operation explained
« on: April 10, 2013, 11:08:30 pm »
Found an interesting new Injection Pump operation video while perusing the "Exhaust Note" videos...

*edit* Oops, nevermind, already posted in the stickies.

Parts for Sale/Wanted / SOLD
« on: March 09, 2013, 09:16:10 pm »

SOLD!   ;D

These are the Euro versions that are separate from the exhaust manifold, allowing you to use any VW mani or custom header you wish, with proper adapters.

I have two of these, both are zero-mile units, made in France. Small turbines, instant spool, very good up to about 20PSI... best suited to low-rpm torque-monster builds, as they tend to run out of breath at high boost/rpms.

$450 shipped to any continental US address; shipping higher outside the US.

General / The new Golf 7 GTD
« on: February 24, 2013, 02:55:09 am »

Please, God... I don't ask for much. Just let them bring this to the US.

Being built in Mexico, so this has a fair chance of showing up here.

This will be my first new car, ever.

User's ride Wall / Flashback! Just one of those Things.
« on: January 03, 2013, 12:55:32 am »
Circa 1993, Daytona Beach FL. '74 Thing, Kawasaki green, Jeep wheels, 1835cc dual-carb engine. A few grand of student loan money ended up in this car.  ;D

Upgrades (non engine related ) / Emblem Restoration
« on: November 23, 2012, 09:44:44 pm »
I'm experimenting with vinyl wrap material with great results.

50 feet of 2" wide tape from Ebay $14

Clean up the emblem, apply the tape, and heat gently until the letters stand out.
 I used a lighter, but scorched it a few times, next time is a heat gun or hair dryer.

Trimmed with X-acto knives, one pointed and one rounded scalpel. Don't saw at the material, it leaves a ragged edge.

Shown is the first attempt, the Vanagon badge. Not happy with a few of the letters, I'm redoing this one.
The VW badge is what I started with, typical grey & faded lettering.
The SYNCRO badge is the tape applied, and partially heat-shrunk (right side was heated)

Real chrome finish, easy to work with, and cheap. This stuff sticks like glue once you heat it a bit.

There's a huge array of colors and faux finishes available, carbon fiber, brushed metals, etc.

Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5