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Topics - ORCoaster

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1
General / Replacing the Speedometer
« on: August 03, 2018, 10:28:11 am »
I was wondering if anyone has tried to install one of those GPS speedometers in place of the OEM one in the cluster.  Since most of the OEM ones are old and failing not to mention hard to get ahold of I was thinking replacing mine with one.  Just wondering if anyone has done the same.

Found a custom cluster in a dash on Craigslist that had a square VDO Tach, fuel and oil gauge on right and speedo on the left.  Dominguez Custom Design on the steering wheel and DCD on the VDO face.  Man selling almost was willing to part it out for me but changed his mind.  Dang. 

2
Need to replace the entire cold start cable to get IP to work well again.  Need both inside and outside cable parts.

Speedometer is not giving proper speed or mileage.  Need a need just a functional speedo but complete cluster is good too.


Send a PM and I will get back to you.  On here most evenings.

Thank ums

3
General / Christmas Presents for the VW
« on: December 26, 2017, 09:27:46 pm »
Many people own pets and give them something special from time to time.  Some of you might do that.  But do you also treat the car to a gift?

Maybe a wash in the 20 degree weather just so it looks special as you cruise to the mall or downtown?  I used to make sure the family car was spiffy for the holidays.  In Michigan with all the salt spray that took some real effort some years. 

I decided that I wasn't going to haul my new pancake compressor to the curb every other day and inflate the front tires.  I had one on the rear go two weeks ago and the other three are at or just about at wear bars.  Not a good place to be for the winter, even if it does mostly rain here all the time.  So I called about and found a tire shop looking to deal on 4 used 14 inch tires so that was the treat I supplied this year.  I really need floor mats but if you can't drive it without filling tires all the time why own it.  So now much better ride.

Let us know what your special treat for the mechanical marvel was this year. 

4
Troubleshooting / Hanging on to the Ebrake
« on: November 19, 2017, 09:57:56 pm »
I have been working on rebuilding the stub axles and repairing the rear brakes on my 81 Caddy and I was wondering if there are supposed to be clips or retainers on the end of the outside part of the cable that would keep it solid up against the backing plate of the drum?  The previous owner had new brakes and cables installed but I see no way to keep the end of the ebrake inside the wheel housing other than spring tension. 

The Bentley service guide has a one liner about a nut that needs to be removed in order to get the cable out but the replacement cables have no threads on them.  There might be a retainer clip that could go on in a groove at the very end of the cable but there presently is no such thing. 

Anyone care to inform me of what is or is not missing?  Seems without something there the adjuster nuts at the handle are the only thing pushing the exterior of the cable into the backing plate. 

5
Cars for Sale / 1981 Rabbit Needs a Home
« on: September 24, 2017, 10:33:28 pm »
I have finally decided to put up the Rabbit for sale.  With the way PhotoBucket went with pictures I think the easiest way to do this it link you through Craigslist, so here you go if interested.

https://oregoncoast.craigslist.org/cto/d/1981-vw-rabbit/6311645677.html

I have moved on to restoration of a Caddy and so this one is up for sale for $4,300.  I think that is about half of what I have into it but, I think that is market price right now.  Located in Oregon, about 4.5 hours south of Portland.  Coos Bay on the coast.  Use the link in the ad or PM from here if you are interested.  Pictures in the link.


6
Troubleshooting / Hot engine, newly rebuilt
« on: August 30, 2017, 08:51:30 pm »
I recently purchased a 1981 Caddy and have noticed that it tends to run about 20 degrees hotter than the thermostat rating.  I have verified the gauge temp in boiling water and the opening temp of the thermostat.  Both seem to be correct.

Yesterday it was a little warmer than usual here on the Oregon coast and I saw 230 F on the gauge.  I pulled over and opened the overflow/reservoir tank and noticed spurts of air in the return stream of antifreeze.  Crap loosing a head gasket I thought.

So today I pulled the injectors and measured the compression in each cylinder.  Figuring one would be low if the gasket was going.  Well all four measured at 500 psi.  So I thought maybe it gets warm and then it leaks. 

I buttoned it up and started it and no air in the system and it was cycling the fan fairly often but the gauge only showed 210 F. 

I then decided that if this was a rebuilt engine what are the chances that the 1000 mile re-torque got done.  I removed the valve cover and went all around the head and they were all at 90 nM or 67 psi.  I retightened them on the proper pattern and started it up and it still runs hot.

I have a lower temp thermostat that I guess is the next thing to do.  But I was wondering if there is any other thing that comes to your mind that I might check as well.  My brain is toast from being in the sun all day. 

Shopping for possibilities  Thanks

7
Upgrades (non engine related ) / Gem Top Canopy window solution
« on: August 06, 2017, 11:19:46 pm »
 How many of us Caddy owners are unable to open the rear slider canopy windows because the channel run has degraded to a point where they just don't slide anymore?

Well keep reading, I found a solution after a couple of buy and returns.

This product   http://www.steelerubber.com/unbeaded-rubber-channel-96-70-3575-58  is just a little wide at the bottom as we need the width to be 3/8" and 1/2" high.  I tried to pack the full original product in and is didn't allow the windows to slide very well at all.  So I took a pair of sharp scissors to it and trimmed those little ridges off the bottom to make it 3/8 of an inch.  It packs nice and flat to the window channel and doesn't compress the opening width.

I can't say for sure that it works because I was handling the slider part to get it back into the frame and it shattered into a zillion pieces.  So now I am sourcing a new piece of glass.  So Close to finishing too.

Hope this can be used by some of us Caddy owners.   

8
Upgrades (non engine related ) / Lifting the Sagging Caddy
« on: July 13, 2017, 12:45:16 am »
Has anyone used the add a leaf kit from the folks at missinglinkz?  Do they even sell it anymore.  I dropped them a line but am asking here as well.  Where else can a guy get a single leaf to increase ride height and load capacity?  Parts Place wants 125 each and about 100 to ship to me.  I think there are cheaper and as good alternatives out there.  Looking around, but let me know if you have used the MLZ kit.

thanks bro

9
MK1 Golf/Jetta and B1 Dasher / Bulb Check Relay question
« on: June 29, 2017, 12:18:13 am »
Can anyone verify the type of relay that goes in the bulb check spot on a 1981 VW Caddy?  I pulled out the one in my truck and it is just the multipurpose one, 4 prong, 16 Amps.

I looked up the fuse box diagram in the Bentley and I get that there should be a five prong plug in there not at four.  The middle prong is shown to be an 87a in one place, the fuse box, and 86a on the wiring diagram.  From what I can gather the difference is that the 87a is normally closed and the 86a is normally open.  When you apply voltage they switch over to the opposite. 

So what five prong relay do I need to put in the bulb check relay slot.  Or does it even matter? 

10
General / Any hints on removing hatch lock?
« on: November 26, 2016, 05:50:22 pm »
Well the rain still comes down around here in buckets and I thought if I put a new hatch seal on the 81 Rabbit I would have less water inside soaking the carpet in back this year.  I have to park on a hill with the nose heading downhill and when it rains I was getting water in at the little tray where the back latch is located. 

Yesterday morning after nearly 4 inches of water from the skies I climbed in the back, I have no rear seat just solid wood and carpet over the gas tank.  I popped off that panel at the latch and shined a bright light in there.  I could see that water was coming is from around the push button that opens the latch.  There is just enough space between the button and the seal that it leaks.  I thought if I could get the button off I could do something about that gap.  Well that seems to be what is eluding me.

How do you get the keyed button out of there?  Bentley manual says take the three screws out and then simply push the button in  until you can get it to clear the piece that is surrounding the button.  That piece is holding onto the edges of he back panel.  I am not able to get that button to do that.  There is a mounting screw hole in a rubber piece that surrounds the button.  It sort of holds into a piece of the back panel for stability. I have tried to pull the button down and out while compressing that mounting piece and I still lack the necessary distance to get the lock out. 

Anyone have any luck doing this?  Maybe some of those that have painted there cars lately.  I know I taped off the button and the surrounding rubber spacer as it was easier than removing the lock button.

Thanks, waiting for proper instructions and the rain to quit.   

11
General / Who has more luck than this????
« on: August 10, 2016, 12:03:24 am »
Two weekends ago now I finally got the time to button up the engine work I was doing on the VW.  I took it out for a test drive on the new head gasket, after proper torque, heat and 90 degree turns of course.  It ran kind of strange in that it would seems to really get up and go then bounce back down to almost a foot off the pedal feel.  I chalked it up to the different injectors I dropped in just not working quite right yet.

Well that behavior went on for a couple of days then went away, car started and drove fine.  So I forgot about that type of action.

This weekend I decided to check the timing, and compression just for good measure you know.   Well after I got the snorkel off and started working on the injector nuts I looked down and whoa!? what is that bolt doing laying there?   The far bolt towards the engine that holds on the injection pump is completely out of its hole and laying on the edge of the engine above the oil pan.  In the process of getting it out of there I spy the nut that goes on the back of the bolt that holds the bottom of the injector in place.  Crap I say.  But hey look here on this radiator hose, the bolt itself!

Ok so I look to the top of the injection pump again and the front bolt is nearly out of its hole as well.  Hmmm, something tells me the mechanic took a break here when it came to tightening something down.  I reached for the 17 mm box wrench and rolled the engine over enough to touch that nut on the front, yepper, he forgot this one too.   

All in all I had forgotten to tighten any of them and somehow the pump was not affected at all for performance.  But what I was feeling was the advance it would get when revved up and the retard when slowing down.  Somehow it came back to a good setting, actually 7 degrees BTDC, every time I stopped the engine. 

I was surely lucky to not have lost all the nuts and bolts but even more so that it ran nearly flawlessly for a week.

The compression numbers were 480, 480, 440 and 480 so I think I will leave well enough alone.  Maybe send the injectors off for a rebuild as it is blue trailing all over town now.  Not sure what the MPG is as it takes me months to burn through a tank nowadays.

Just wondering if others have such good fortune.  Maybe you found that 3/8 ths in drive ratchet laying in the fan housing?  or screw driver on top the battery?

I am counting my blessings and thinking that might be my quota for a while.




12
IDI Engine / Maybe Just too Much Sun
« on: June 25, 2016, 08:58:31 pm »
I started out the day trying to find the clank that is coming from one end or the other of the 1.6 N/A engine I have under the hood. Last week I spent the day dropping the oil pan and pump and checking the bottom end clearance with red Plastigauge.  All of them squeezed the crap out of it and I came to the conclusion that at 150K miles the engine is barely worn on the bottom end.  But it sure sounded like a connecting rod clapping under there.

So today I started with the injectors as I have a second set so I figured put them in and see what comes of that.  What came of it is that it is now hard to start and still clanks.  I hooked up the electronic device I have that senses when the cylinder fires off and it appeared to clank in time with the timing light flashing on the #4 cylinder. 

So I pulled the valve cover ans proceeded to measure up the clearances between cam and cam followers.  All were well within spec or just a little wide.  43 instead of 40 for instance.  I never found any that would have been too tight thus getting a slap from the Piston. 

With it starting hard I figure I need to get the timing tools out and bring it back into normal.  Even my wife says that isn't normal.  I was having to crank and crank and crank on it.  Normally it is right there at the turn of the key once the lights go out on the dash. 

So is there something else another has found that produces a heavy clank as you get it up to 15-1600 rpm.  Very pronounced hit.   

I just ran out of ideas, like I said maybe too much sun on the old bald head today. 

13
IDI Engine / When is it rods and not injectors making that noise?
« on: May 09, 2016, 09:10:10 pm »
Lately I have been driving slow through town with the windows down and have heard this nasty noise at low RPMs.  Like between 1200 and 1800 RPMs.
I don't hear it once I get passed 2000 for sure.  I have tried to source out a sticky injector in the drive but the real noise comes just as I put a load on it at the lights or stop signs.  I don't hear it coasting or decelerating downhill. 

I am beginning to think it is a rod to crank noise.  So what is the test for that?  Pull the oil pan and get on the bolts to be sure they are at spec?  Before doing that would you think it would be advisable to push, pull or tap lightly on them to see if they move? 

Looking for something to do the next weekend it stays dry.  Let me know what you may have found if you have done this sort of chase in the past.

 

14
I found this offer in the mailbox this morning.  I am temped to pick up a few pieces just in case I want to upgrade.  My ride only has 104 K miles on it and much of the pieces have already been replaced in the recent past.

Hope this works for you:

http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1285062&m=wc&l=en&html=true


15
General / Have you noticed your fuel gauge?
« on: August 12, 2015, 11:51:36 pm »
I was looking hard at mine today to determine if I had used about 3 or 5 gallons of fuel for the miles I have driven so far this month.  I finally noticed that there are more divisions between the bottom end of a tank then the top.  My gauge has no bold line to show where 3/4 of a tank might be.  Just a bunch of single lines.  Maybe as many as 6.  But if I look to the second half of the gauge there is one for like 1/4 and then one for half of that where the scale turns red. 

My gauge reflects a high full level, by that I mean it stays there for about 120 miles then creeps down according to use.  But on the second half I do not get that amount of miles.  In fact I don't get to the bottom end at all.  Once the needle hits the red I have about 60 miles left.  I could take the sender out and adjust it I guess but then I would be in a panic that I wasn't getting the miles of the top I should and forget about the reserve I would have at the bottom.

Anyone have any background on why VW set up the gauge in this manner?  Maybe some of our European brothers and sisters can shed some light on the arrangement of something not equally divided as we mericans structure such things.   

Just noticed it today so it isn't a problem just a curious thing. 

DAS

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