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Topics - 745 turbogreasel

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IDI Engine / IP input leaking under load?
« on: June 02, 2015, 03:46:47 pm »
Long story short, helping a guy swap a D24TIC into an 83 LT28,  got it in and running, and I have an issue  I haven't run into before.
Teast ran the motor  before install, and it leaked out the pump input,  so I put a new seal in.
We've had some issue with  air suction upstream of the fuel filter, and blew a couple IC  hoses off, so  we were driving around with the  engine cover off , watching stuff   happen. 
Over 4000 RPM or so, it  starts  to pull air.
Turning on the 4PSI  electric lift pump stops the bubbles, but 3-5 seconds later fuel will leak out the input and sling off the pulley.
Lower speed, or  not running the lift  pump, it stops leaking.
Removing the lift pump, we still get air from something in the filtration setup.
I'm  confident of  fixing the air going through the filter,  they are new,  there are 2, with  a kind of inordinate number of lines/clamps ,etc.

Why does the new seal only leak at speed?

Anyway, here is what a  D24TIC looks like in  an LT

Parts for Sale/Wanted / FS/feeler 2002 ALH Golf donor car SF bay Cali
« on: September 20, 2014, 06:52:45 pm »
My friend   got mashed by a crazy old lady.

~160K on motor, ~20K on head injectors and timing belt.
the fender bent the leading edge of the pass door, and the pass airbag blew for no reason, so the repair estimate is astronomical.

Core support, rad, PS pump, hood, fender, and lights you'd have a driver.
or if you have  a line on blue  parts or a similar car, let me know.

We are still negotiating with insurance.

General / jetta IV gasser heavy duty cooling?
« on: March 31, 2014, 11:17:45 pm »
Anyone know how to tell if you have it? Or  if it fits either way? the HD rad is cheaper and my friend got her 02 2.0 run into a bimmer so I'm looking for a rad, core, light, etc.

Here is a truck I cut in half way back in the day.  This guy taught me everything I know about bodywork. I haven't checked in on it in awhile, but it did drive fine.   ther eis no all weather top solution done, but the cabrio top does clip in at the front. I haven't driven it with the turbo motor.
Not rusty.  I was surprised  how good it looked  when done.  I think he's building a full cab one now.  

i haven't driven it for years time to sell it. it has been on biodiesel for 10 years. this is a older picture it has different wheels and could use a good polishing. come see it and bring money. i'm too old for azz, i don't smoke grass and it doesn't use gas. money works for me. email for ph # and address. make it a good email to get me to reply. remember check you bank account. i sold it once for $5900 but i liked it so much i backed out on the deal.

Troubleshooting / Transfer pressure while cranking
« on: August 21, 2012, 06:06:30 pm »
Working on a no-start, and I only get a wisp of smoke out the tailpipe.
Anyone have a rough number to look for on a working engine?

IDI Engine / Every injection part ever
« on: August 05, 2012, 05:03:48 pm »
dozens of throttle arm/gov cages, shutoffs, linkages, push pull boost control, etc...

near the bottom, I see fancy tube benders, and tractor pull injector pipes...
Kinda info overload, but we might find some cool stuff. list PNs you find in this thread, and I'll make a list if it helps.

Parts for Sale/Wanted / Frankendiesel Cabriocaddy
« on: September 28, 2011, 10:00:37 pm »
A few years ago, I helped my friend build this, and now he's ready for something else.

Troubleshooting / ALH Serpentine tensioner noise?
« on: April 28, 2011, 03:42:46 am »
02 Golf has a rattle where the top bolt of the tensioner shock goes through.
I can hush it up with medium fingertip pressure.
Anyone fixed this without buying  a tensioner assembly?

Troubleshooting / EGT age?
« on: February 06, 2011, 01:22:45 pm »
Do the senders  fade out as they get old?

My 'Burb has a Banks(Hewett Instrument, 1999 I think) non electronic gauge, and its response seems slow as can be, as well as it rarely hits 800...
Then again, there is no smoke, and boost response is pathetic just like the last motor which showed absolutely no sign of EGT damage.

My D24 has an electronic gauge, and it responds almost as fast as you move the pedal.
Both senders are at the turbine inlet.
Either I have  conservative tune, faulty instrument, or both...

So, my question is what is the failure mode?

Parts for Sale/Wanted / FS: Caddy in California $1600
« on: July 31, 2010, 08:33:17 pm »
I've known John a long time, he takes care of his stuff, and is the kind of  guy you want to buy a car from.
I drove this car, and it was fine, but that was a few years back.

Non VW Group Diesel / 97 PSD Auto to Manual swap?
« on: July 29, 2010, 12:19:09 am »
Kinda OT, but has anyone here done this before?

I know it is nothing new, and a lot of people on the web say it is easy, but I haven't found a lot of specifics, especially  with regard to wiring.

What I have;
1997 F250 4x4 xcab longbed Powerstroke auto 190K mi
Auction car, been wheeled and repossessed.  Has some suspension damage.  Open downpipe exhaust ;D
  Repo truck tore the ebrake cable back so far it just about locked up one brake.  After fixing that, I drove 300 miles home.
It ran OK, seemed to shift fine, but blinked the OD light (that's check engine for the tranny) all the way.  At some point on the drive, It decided to blow a lot of tranny fluid out the front of the trans, but the axle was dry before I started my trip.
It had codes stored for crank sensor, and torque converter slip.  Cleared em, and did a drive cycle... no codes set, but it did die at idle once.
I figure the  cranks sensor is bad, the TCC is starting to slip, the front seal is wasted...and the trans may need a rebuild.

Truck #2
This truck is a 1996 F350 reg cab longbed 4x4 manual.
Out of state truck, reconstructed title as it was rolled slowly in the woods, and rebuilt with another cab.  Possibly means no back fees.
The cab and interior are poor, tailgate wasted, bed not great.  Seems to run well, the guy I got it from said great, he drove it a few thousand miles at leas, and said he loved the truck, but he has a new one now.  Anyway  this truck makes horrendous noises from the clutch/flywheel  all the time, and slips if you try to beat on it.

The plan;
Longbed 250 get trans, pedals, and ECU from the 350, South bend DMF eliminator clutch set.
Air assist bags from the350, nice shocks
F350 springs, solid axle, and steering linkage from the Pitman arm down
Some nice seats out of a plush Bronco if I can find one in the yard.
The stock downpipe looks like a terrible design, I may try to get rid of that.
F350 may go back together downgraded to 250 status with some stock replacement parts in the autobox, or maybe better just to part it out.

This truck has to have a bit of a split personality, as it needs to live at the end of a dirt road, make 4 hour highway trips, do some medium hauling(under 10K loads), and occasionally it will be asked to go above and beyond, probably in terrible conditions.

It seems if you don't swap wiring harnesses, you have to reset codes form time to time, but how much of a PITA is it to get the harness out?
Looks like the rear driveshaft will have to be lengthened.
I might have to cut the tranny hump out of the stick?
If someone knows a great writeup, or has done this, point me the right way.

General / I like big jugs
« on: May 10, 2010, 03:49:42 am »

Non VW Group Diesel / 6.2l starving for fuel
« on: April 04, 2010, 05:37:34 am »
This is a pretty now thing, if I'm under about 1/8 tank indicated, and I rally to hard in the turns, I suck air, and sometimes stall.  Esp. going uphill.
84 Suburban, completely stock fuel system.
I have never  run out of fuel, and have previously driven to 0 on the gauge without noticing anything like this.

It is possible my gauge is changing for the worse.
Maybe something in the tank is dissolving?

Anyone run across this before?

Parts for Sale/Wanted / Craigslist find 77 diesel Bug, $2000 not mine
« on: December 30, 2009, 03:48:39 pm »
Saw this on the local craigslist this morning
It was for sale a year or so ago too.
1977 Diesel Bug Price: $2000
Very nice one of a kind eco-friendly ride here.
It's a 1977 bug that has been converted to diesel with a Lombardini engine. The engine is a 2 cylinder air-cooled diesel and has 23hp. Kinda like a small tractor or generator engine. It's slow and loud but gets about 45-55 MPG depending on terrain. It has a top speed of about 60 Mph. I use it as an around town car for taking the kids to school and getting groceries.
The body alone is worth the asking price.
I got all the blueprints and parts list from the builder and the engine alone cost $3232.25.
The interior is in good condition. There is a small tear in the headliner and some paint overspray on some trim, but otherwise clean. The paint is in decent condition, one small bare patch on the roof about the size of a quarter. No dents. Great tires and nice rims.

Clean title. Body has 79,000 on it. It has less than 50 hours on the engine.

The car is titled as a diesel, no smog ever needed.

More pics here:
$2000 OBO

    * it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests

Troubleshooting / What did this in the combustion chamber?
« on: December 20, 2009, 07:40:11 pm »
Car is an 02 Golf, ate Tbelt.
180K on the car, belt didn't look too old, but lost a bunch of teeth. Stalled  going uphill, and did restart briefly, so she's got some bendies.

When I got the head off,I was surprised to see light surface rust in #3 bore....HG seeping, or condensation because it was parked a week with that valve open?  
She got the car from the local VW dealer, and it has needed a trans and IP already.  Apparently  they felt bad enough about this to offer her parts at wholesale or something
She of course got no history with the car, but It looks to me like something happened, and its been open before.


here you can see in addition to the pitting something is transfered on to the head surface.  those two pistons look about the same, but with more  projecting deposits.

A shot of both for good luck---also, one valve has a swirled finish.

So, I see pitting by debris, also melted  looking craters, and the melted buildup.
Is this a broken glow tip?
Burning carbon from the EGR?
2 separate events?

Don't have a plan yet, input welcome.

Looking in the turbo, I see wear maybe a tad high for 170K? but seems to operate well enough, and the vanes move freely.

I have higher res pics  if you need to see em.

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