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Topics - rs899

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IDI Engine / What happens if you put a gasser filter on a 1.6 na?
« on: August 05, 2015, 11:11:22 am »
...just once. Does it blow up? I just have one leftover mahle oc47 that I want to start a rebuilt engine on and run for 20 minutes before I change it and the oil. Looking in it, there looks to be a restrictive valve an inch down. I dunno....

Diesel Swaps / 1.6 CR IDI into 81 Rabbit Convertible (Cabriolet)
« on: July 26, 2015, 05:48:07 pm »
This "project" has been ongoing for almost 10 years now.  First I was going to just get the original EN engine going.  Then I was going to pull and rebuild it.  Then I was going to swap in JH (actually did).

But I'm a dieselhead at heart so eventually realized I had enough old CR parts to convert.  I had a CR shortblock that I had bought from MOFOCO in '94 that only did like 30k miles before the center bearing trashed the crank. So, I repistoned that and got another crank and I am about to light that puppy off in the car in the next few days.  But I am going to just run it off the battery and a small fuel can, without going through the car wiring or gas tank.

Question is , when I eventually get it running on the proper wiring, I know I need to bypass the fuel pump wiring somehow so the the ignition will engage the starter.  Anyone know how?

IDI Engine / Glow Plug Shape
« on: July 26, 2015, 03:14:18 pm »
Hi guys.  I am re-engining an '81 Cabriolet trying to use up parts I have squirreled away from 20+ years of working on VW and MB diesels.

I have a small pile of glow plugs, but only 3 that have a similar sort of "pointy/tapered" shape - I think the pn was 0250201032  which I think is really correct.  The rest seem to have a more blunt end -perhaps these are MB?

IIRC, the injector is aimed at the glow plug on a VW, whereas the MB has an internal ball for this purpose. 

Is there any real issue with using a "blunt end" GP on a VW?  Just trying to use up all my stash.....

Troubleshooting / Intermittent Stalling
« on: February 11, 2014, 10:31:28 am »
A couple of times a month , when the car is cold ( well, chilly- this is Florida), I will start the Jetta , drive about 5 minutes down the road at moderate speed (35 mph in 4th) and the car will sputter and die.  It will restart, then go another 2 minutes and try to die again.  After that, no problems.

I changed the filter and checked the "out" bolt.  Any other ideas?  I had been running Murphy Oil B20, but today I filled up with the real stuff just to see if that matters.

Troubleshooting / Jetta Dies - Beyond the Obvious
« on: December 11, 2013, 07:51:46 am »
Cranked up my 100% reliable Jetta this morning , got up the hill 50 yards sputters and dies.  Crank/start again go another 50 yards car dies.

Turn it around, go another 50 yards...dies.  Park it  runs OK for a few seconds parked..dies. 

This is at 0-dark-30 this morning, so no chance to investigate.  Took the seedy old pickup to work.

Must be fuel related.  First and most obvious guess has to be filter ( it's old, 3 years/50k miles).

If it's NOT that....what else comes to mind?

General / If They Kill Us All, Who Will Buy Their Junk?
« on: December 02, 2013, 07:29:17 am »
Since it was 50% off at the LKQ junkyards this weekend, I dusted off the Rabbit Pickup and headed out for the yard in Daytona.  Braking at the few traffic lights I had to stop for, the pedal felt kind of squishy.   I decided to turn off and check out the dump for useful hazardous materials (oil, antifreeze, paint can frequently be had free) and the pedal sunk almost to the floor.  Well, that wasn't right and wouldn't do as I got closer to town where there would be traffic, so I headed home.   After a few nervous stops (really need to fix that emergency brake cable...),  the brake light came on (Duh!)  and at home I inspected the reservoir and found the front empty.  The RR drum was dripping.  Gee - I had replaced both rear wheel cylinders a few months back...WTF?  Pulled the drum and one end of the cylinder was leaking badly.  Pulled it apart and I was obvious that some moron had crammed the piston in without paying attention and dislocated the lip seal.  This was a Brakewear part I had bought some time ago from a FLAPS made in the lovely PRC.  Luckily I had another new set of Meyle Germany ( yeah, right)  that I pulled apart and  inspected this time and all seems to be well (except for the stain in my shorts).

Moral of the story.  Inspect everything first.

Troubleshooting / Normal Timing Belt Change Interval 1.6 NA
« on: August 28, 2013, 09:11:41 am »
What do you guys do?  I used to do 50K and I am getting there about now...but maybe I can go another 10K?

Upgrades (non engine related ) / New Seats for Caddy
« on: May 25, 2013, 07:38:05 am »
It's time (past time, really) to do this.

What are some good candidates to cannibalize seats from?

Whats in there now are irreplacable!  When was the last time you saw a Renault Fuego in a boneyard?

I might even go for a bench seat this time.

Any ideas?

Troubleshooting / Overheating Paranoia
« on: May 16, 2013, 07:42:49 pm »
It hasn't happened yet, but it seems to take a lot less time when sitting in traffic for the needle to creep up and the fan to come on.  Or when running before the fan comes on seems to take a bit for it to cool off.

Just for grins I pulled the front end apart and really cleaned out the fins on the condenser and radiator (original) and took off the rad and backflushed it.  It flowed just fine and really looked fine for its age.

Could the water pump impeller be going, or am I just paranoid?

I know that the level is supposed to be above the check hole level on the side (for most of the older trannies used on the MkII).  I only add fluid from the top through the speedo cable port.

Has anyone measured the distance from the top of the case to the proper fluid level?

Does anyone have any ideas/fixes for some sort of gauge to watch this level?

IDI Engine / In Pulley Hell
« on: January 02, 2013, 12:08:21 pm »
Over the holidays , I am trying to re-engine an old '81 Rabbit Convertible using a  old 1.6 IDI that I had basically lying around with low miles on the pieces.

Well, I forgot a bit about pulleys.  First, I forgot that the diesel block doesn't have the same alternator mounting holes as the old JH gasser block ( I was going to delete the A/C using a Fox alternator and mount).  Rats.  Well, that can be overcome as I have a buddy who can make me a plate or block to locate the Fox  mount over the water pump.

The other snag I have now is where the pulleys will end up.  I forgot that the only water pump pulley I have is a 40mm and I don't have any 40mm pumps.  The only 30mm pulley I have is from the gasser and I realized that it's too large to play with the diesel crank pulley.

Sooo.  How can I get this thing going?  Can I use the gasser crank pulley and the gasser wp pulley ( assuming I can shim it out)?

Sorry about the pic.  It looks like it interferes, but it doesn't, just a bad angle.  The gasser wp pulley on the diesel crank pulley DOES interfere.

 I suppose I can buy a 40mm pump, but I have about 3 or 4 good 30mm pumps sitting around.

There aren't any 1.6 diesels in the yards around here- are there any other gasser 30mm wp pulleys that work?

Upgrades (non engine related ) / Fix Headliner?
« on: December 06, 2012, 07:46:59 pm »
I have the cloth, but the shell is cracked in several places on my Mk2 shell.

What's a good way to fix it?

General / Don't Overlook the Junkyard
« on: December 06, 2012, 06:44:44 pm »
...even a blind squirrel gets an acorn once in a while

$25.25 on shipped, no tax and even a 1 year free towing cert.

This was one of those "Warehouse Buys" that kinda looked to be used (used?  greasy crap at

Came with a busted bushing but WGAS...

Troubleshooting / Looking at Conspiracy Theories...
« on: September 17, 2012, 07:01:16 am »
91 Jetta Mk 2...

I can't figure out the clunking I am getting from the right front corner when doing a left hand turn or quick stop.

I have replaced EVERYTHING up front in the last 2 months , including motor mounts that were only 2 years old and probably still good.

The only thing I can think of is the flex of the  rear trailing arm bushings, which are new, but the original type.  I got under there last weekend and when jamming a huge screwdriver in between the subframe and the arm it flexes quite a bit, but makes no noise and the bolt is tight (just like the ones I replaced...).  I don't see any signs of shiny metal where things are sliding around

When I accelerate moderately I can feel the car pulling to the right and then back left when I ease off the throttle.

I am thinking the noise may be the end of the sway bar bushing slipping as the control arm flexes.

That's all I can think of.  Everything is new and tight...

It's driving me nuts.

I may go and try using the solid Audi TT bushing.

Any other ideas?

General / Don't Trust Anything You Read....
« on: September 06, 2012, 09:23:06 am »
In a frantic attempt to find the clunking noise coming from the passenger side front end of my Mk2 Jetta, I decided to buy new motor mounts, though the ones I have are only 2 years old.

FCP Groton currently has $25 free shipping, so I looked at their selection.

The cheapest they had were

for the rear $12 Meyle (German engineered ,no doubt, made in China)

and for the front hydraulic $18 Rein Engineering , also certainly Chinese at that price.  The better brands ( Febi, Lemforder) were over $50, so I took a chance.

What I got:

The Meyle. Box says "Made in PR China".  No surprise there.  The mount says "Meyle Germany" (?)  The one I took off said "Meyle Germany" too, but was a slightly different design, so may have been.

The Rein. Box says "Made in India" (that's a new one).  The mount says "France" and has a faint VW logo on it.  SCORE!

So what can you believe?????  (still clunks, BTW, going to try lower control arm next)

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