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Messages - Syncroincity

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« on: September 03, 2015, 02:50:59 am »
I just moved the fuel pump back towards the engine, everything operates normally now, no cut-off of fuel. I need to adjust it a little back towards retard because the motor is quite loud in idle now, similar to how it sounded when I first fired it up a few years ago. Sounds fine while driving but at idle and low-power accel it gets quite rattly.

« on: August 24, 2015, 01:56:32 am »
Great points, it was getting bounced around pretty violently during the ride home. :P

Posting this for a Facebook Vanagon traveler that is stranded in Alaska with a ruined turbo on his 1Z TDI-powered van.

He has a GT-15 wastegate turbocharger, with separate manifold, seeking a replacement or compatible, with 3-bolt triangle manifold flange.
Not equipped for a VNT.

I've directed him here to sign up to view/answer posts.


« on: August 21, 2015, 10:37:26 pm »
No safety valve.

I actually drove it up onto the flatbed... which is why I thought the fuel filter may have been blocked, it was pretty steep.

I don't think it's turbo related... when the power cuts off, so does the exhaust smoke. When I had issues with a boost hose popping off, the smoke tripled when it lost boost pressure, this thing is cutting the fuel. It's got to be the governor.

I'll check the timing this weekend, it must have jumped a tooth or two, the cold-start issue points to that pretty hard.

I'm just having a hard time with the operating temp part of the equation. Cold-start lever position does not seem to affect when this occurs, in or out it does not happen until the engine gets good and warm.

« on: August 21, 2015, 05:20:20 am »
OK, this is a weird one.
Background; Engine was running fine, no issues. Turbo oil line broke, had to get a flatbed ride home.
After I replaced the oil line, took it out for a drive.
Seemed normal, until it reached operating temperature.
At that point, whenever I accelerated up to about 3200 rpm, the fuel seemed to cut off. Completely. It was like hitting a brick wall.
The fuel simply shut off, and will remain shut off until 1. I let off the pedal completely and 2. it drops back below 3200 rpm.
I changed the fuel filter, thinking the flatbed ramp had stirred up sediment or something, but it's the same.
It does NOT do this when the engine is cold.
It happens regardless of throttle position, even holding the pedal steady, if I go down a hill and the van drifts up in speed, the fuel cuts at the same point. Full throttle or cruise or slack throttle, same results.
Power output seems to be the same as before. Pulls like a freight train, until it doesn't, and everyone's head snaps forward and they look at me like I'm a dick doing it on purpose... :-*
It is also suddenly difficult to start, even on a hot day without plugs and cold start, and stutters and smokes white like it's below zero out.

At this point I'm thinking the pump jumped time somehow... maybe the governor is kicking in? It used to rev freely, this came on all of a sudden, after a non-fuel repair. WTF??  ???

Would you have AHU or 1Z head and pistons to convert an AAZ to a TDI?

Diesel Swaps / Re: diesel wiring (how?) into gas car
« on: July 02, 2015, 03:54:38 am »
You really can't buy much new except wear items anymore for cars this old. Wiring a diesel is not difficult, 4 or 5 connections at the most. Do you have access to wiring diagrams? You need to find a Bentley repair manual for the car, will have all the wiring laid out.

Tachometer will not work as-is. Options are either 1. Find a VW Diesel tach and transplant it or 2. Modify a gasser tach to accept the diesel input, which is a tap off of one of the windings of the alternator. There's a good write-up here on the modification, http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php/topic,3741.msg335109.html#msg335109

What issues is he having with the wiring? We need details, and pictures if possible. There's a lot of talent here, these guys can get you through this. If he's having problems figuring out the glow-plug relay, that can be simplified to a manual push button for the time being. You need some fairly heavy wiring for the plugs themselves,

 To post pictures, you have to store the picture files on an outside website, like photobucket.com or thesamba.com, then when you make a post here, copy the address of the picture, and click the photo button, right below the B bold button in the menu above the smiley faces. Then paste the picture address when the img word pops up on the post.

I just wrapped up a 1.9TD diesel swap into a gasser Vanagon Syncro, the wiring was by far the easiest thing. I put a diesel tach into mine, and soldered a wire onto one the the alternator winding ends for the signal. I used an adjustable electronic timer relay to activate a big power relay that lights up the glow plugs.

IDI Engine / Re: 1983 Vanagon Diesel Accelerator Cable too short!?
« on: June 17, 2015, 08:46:29 pm »
Diesel Vanagon cables should be all the same, regardless of year. Possible that the fuel lever is clocked too far aft?
Most non-vanagon fuel levers will interfere with the engine cover, that's why you get home-made ones... it has to be bent over to mirror the tilt of the engine so it won't hit the cover.

Here's where I got mine; GEMO cable... 


To attach photos, you have to store the pictures on a hosting website, like Photobucket, Imgur, thesamba etc. then just do a copy of the address, and paste it into your post then have it highlighted and click the photo tab in the upper menu and it will add the image tags automatically.

Parts for Sale/Wanted / Re: 6jx14 rims wanted
« on: June 10, 2015, 10:23:09 pm »
I have a great set of Audi Ronals for you.  :D

Hankook winter tires, lots of tread. A few coats of paint on them; they look decent, but could use a touch-up here and there where it's flaking, currently steel silver.

Looking for $250 for the set. Located in Queens, NY.

User's ride Wall / Re: German whore #2 for the stable
« on: April 05, 2015, 03:33:24 am »
Excellent choice, and a smokin' deal! Keep your eye out for a blown-up VR6 edition, easy swap into an upgraded trim level if you choose.
Look up the fuel filler mod to gain a couple extra gallons capacity, you'll have something like a 1000 mile range with this bad boy.

General / Re: New gifs or smilies that need to be on here for use
« on: April 02, 2015, 04:03:43 am »

General / Re: New gifs or smilies that need to be on here for use
« on: February 18, 2015, 08:11:29 pm »


Though, having dug around the internets some more, I think maybe what i really need in my life is an Iltis.

Yeah, that would be the much easier route, be a bad-ass vehicle with a nice TDI in it. Not only was it the replacement for the 181, it's the originator of the Quattro drivetrain.

As someone who's owned both; I'd say yes, but it's gonna need some cutting at the rear apron to clear the timing cover. Height-wise you could probably even get away with a 15-deg install.

Stay with a T2 or T3 transmission (which is what the 181 was originally spec'ed to have along with reduction axles) and you can simply change the bellhousing to a diesel Vanagon piece and bolt it right up to the engine without adapters. DV (diesel Vanagon) trans would be the no-brainer here.

You need D.V. engine carrier bars and engine mounts, all readily available. The bars mount to the frame rails on the Vanagon, so you'll need to figure out a mounting scheme, or design custom items.

The radiator isn't a big deal; since the spare is mounted up on top of the trunk well and not in front like a Beetle, just mount it right up front and cut air vents on front for intake and exit thru the bottom panel with some basic shrouding and an electric fan to direct the flow. Marine hose for cooling, or Vanagon piping parts. Don't forget a Vanagon rear heater... now you can have real heat in the winter!

Upgrades (non engine related ) / Re: Interior adhesive for vinyl?
« on: January 28, 2015, 11:00:34 pm »
3M contact spray adhesives are great... you need to apply to both sides, let it dry a bit, then assemble. Pro shops use it for headliners etc. Make sure to get rid of as much old glue as possible first.

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