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Messages - wolf_walker

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IDI Engine / Re: AAZ crank big end ready sleeve PN?
« on: November 03, 2016, 02:07:45 am »
For ***s sake dude, relax. I'm sorry for whatever *** in your cereal this morning. I thought we were a friendly group here, not the mk4 section of vortex. Damn...

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IDI Engine / Re: AAZ crank big end ready sleeve PN?
« on: November 02, 2016, 03:20:07 pm »
Negative, they list several different manufacturers, and if you backtrack the manufacturers part numbers you see them listing different sizes for each of those supposedly compatible part numbers.
Further, if you look up differeng models that I'm 99% sure have the same rear crank, you start to see differing PN's listed depending on where you look.  I also see evidence of several rear main seals being
"close enough" PN's from other vehicles which isn't uncommon with seals in bearings that are semi-generic.  Redblock Volvo's have a thing with this on the one of the engine seals, can't remember which, the generic one's from National and what have you are juuuust a hair big since they happen to be from some GM motor.  Cost cutting only stocking one sku for the vendor and manufacturer, buyer beware.

I wasn't kidding when I said I do this for a living.  Such that I can't take a non-specialized catalog at face value.
I saw enough variation in a couple places to make me give it the evil eye, hence my asking you folks.
No biggie though, I'll post back the SKF PN's if they work out so someone has something concrete to go with next time.

IDI Engine / Re: AAZ crank big end ready sleeve PN?
« on: November 01, 2016, 11:54:10 pm »
Trouble is I find different sizes/PN's depending on where I look.  It smells funny, and I do PN's and car parts for a living.

I think I'm going to go with the SKF listed for a passat with an AAZ from
I believe it's the same as an ABA or any older 8v gasser too but not positive, lot of funky conflicting application data.

When I'm sure it works I'll post the PN's here for next dude.

Thanks for nothin lol....   ;D

IDI Engine / AAZ crank big end ready sleeve PN?
« on: October 31, 2016, 04:35:58 pm »
Anyone have a PN handy for a ready sleeve or the like for the trans end of the crank on a 1.6, or I assume 1.9 or several other VW lumps of that era.
I've got an AAZ I don't want to have to go into a 3rd time with a bit o groove on it.

Yes I'm being lazy but I figured one of you learn-ed gents would have such handy.

So what was the verdict, crazy too long struts or ***ty CV's?

Is it actually running on all four?  It sounds..  wrong.  the put put put put put... 

I've had a couple of these that either with freshly assembled or not run in ages motors smoked white, although not that much,
till I got them out and actually drove them.  I have a post about it here from years ago somewhere.

IDI Engine / Re: Ecodiesel 39% opacity failed emissions test
« on: March 27, 2016, 08:18:52 pm »
I saw him put the rear wheels on the dyno rollers.

Please post that on their yelp page lol.....

You a more patient man than me, I'd have left at that.

precision work?  what precision work? what is there to mark?

You're supposed to put a CV joint back exactly as it came apart, balls in the mated races, etc, etc, if it's not new and un-used.
Isn't that hard.

What is hard is believing that for fifty bucks they can use the proper metal, to the proper tolerances, and properly heat treated, with proper quality boots.
My experience has been that they do not, and they are pretty universally junk.  I've driven the boots off and had the joints start making noise with the boots still
intact inside 30K more than once.  Screw that noise, GKN or factory joints/boots for me.  Some folks get lucky and I'm happy for them but I ain't a gamblin man.

Seems like the axle would hit the frame horn if it went down much further than stock.  Even so, do you really ever unload the suspension that much
driving around?  That boot should be able to take the full mechanical range of motion of the CV without tearing, unless it's a piece of chinese junk. :)

Might check and see if the switch, that I can't remember where or what is but is probly on the hvac unit, that activates the AC isn't malfunctioning.
As stock, it'll trigger the aux fan when the heater/ac fan is activated and the lever is in AC or defrost.

I had a failure once where when the aux fan kicked on for temp control, it activated the AC compressor, the diode in the system had failed.
I had a failure once where if the aux fan was on for temp control, and the hvac fan was on, the aux fan would stay on after the temp switch
kicked off, untill one turned the hvac fan control off.  I don't remember how, or if, I fixed that one.  Don't think I did..

MK1 Golf/Jetta and B1 Dasher / Re: Caddy interior
« on: February 07, 2016, 04:02:19 am »
Check with the UK caddy forum guys.

IDI Engine / Re: bleeding air out of fuel lines on AAZ
« on: December 09, 2015, 09:27:46 pm »
Giles if you can afford it lol..   Otherwise I dunno in Canada, there are a bunch of pump shops in the US, hit Yelp or whatever lists businesses there, or call up a local diesel repair place
and ask who does theirs maybe.  I think, but can't swear, that if you take the delivery valves to match with them you can use single stage injectors, but that might be introducing
more variables into a problem already.

IDI Engine / Re: bleeding air out of fuel lines on AAZ
« on: December 09, 2015, 06:14:15 pm »
If it's not nailing like crazy it couldn't hurt to drive it a bit, but in my experience thing settle down pretty quick with air and such if the system is tight and in good shape.
I think I'd get someone reputable to rebuild the injectors since they are an unknown, and are cheaper than getting into the pump.
Those also might be dual stage injectors, I think the AAZ or at least some of them had those, might just have to buy a set of new/rebuilt, I'm told
they are not as easy to rebuild as regular ones.

IDI Engine / Re: bleeding air out of fuel lines on AAZ
« on: December 09, 2015, 04:52:19 pm »
It really shouldn't be that complex, I pull a vacuum on the return outlet of the pump till fuel comes out, if the system is totally dry I might open the injector fittings at the injector while someone
cranks till fuel comes out, then I crank till it starts which should be nearly right away,
inside a minute it's fine.  If this isn't happening, you have a leak somewhere or some other related problem.  The system is self bleeding
essentially, until it's sucking in air somewhere.  Also, that seeming to pull fuel into injectors you are seeing with the clear lines is quite likely an optical illusion,
it's not possible for the injectors to suck fuel back in.  There is also very, very little flow/pressure in those overflow lines, it's why that little rubber cap on the end
one is sufficient.  They are there to provide a path back to the tank for any fuel that leaks around the nozzle inside the injector body, fresher the injector, the less fuel in those lines ime. 
Put a long hose on one and run it and see how much fuel comes out, it's generally not a lot.  Fuel or air in those overflow lines
should have zero impact on how the thing runs, other than making a mess they will run just fine with no hoses on them at all.
Beyond getting the IP full of fuel, and doing a gross bleed of the injector hardlines, that's it.  The system bleeds itself while running.

You might start with soaking the whole area in brake cleaner to remove any fuel, blow or let it dry off, then run it and look for weeping.
You can also put a long rod or screwdriver or mechanics stethoscope on each injector and pretty clearly hear when they pop at idle, if there is
air which compresses, they will not pop, fuel does not compress and makes them pop(which is to say, open or spray).

When was the last time that pump was re-sealed or the injectors rebuilt?

IDI Engine / Re: In progress mini-refresh
« on: December 06, 2015, 05:28:36 pm »
Not holding my breath on a quiet column, least not with a diesel.

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