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Messages - ORCoaster

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1
User's ride Wall / Re: My dubs
« on: November 18, 2019, 10:19:01 pm »
Ok I will stop with the poking and just answer the questions.  Humor is not working.

2
User's ride Wall / Re: My dubs
« on: November 17, 2019, 10:55:37 pm »
Libby,  I was speaking oddly I guess.  I was trying to say he posted all those pictures after you specifically told him it was not a TD pump.  I could only find a hazy picture in the forum posts that showed the LDA.  If he can't see the difference by looking at the pic you just put up then I would say it is a lost cause.

Some people still believe we live on a flat earth too.  I can't understand that being a scientist. 
Thanks for finding a quality picture, it is worth 1,000 of our words. 

3
User's ride Wall / Re: My dubs
« on: November 17, 2019, 07:56:51 pm »
Libby, I didn't think so but the extensive reply and the pictures makes me think he still believes the pump is a TD one.  He may also believe in Santa Claus.  Holiday season you know.

If you look at the upside down pump picture you can kind of imagine it being an LDA, If you cross your eyes and squint at it.


4
User's ride Wall / Re: My dubs
« on: November 17, 2019, 02:11:07 pm »
No ufo type device on that pump.  The LDA looks waaaay different.  It has a screw and nut on the top of the device and a place to attach a three mm hose from a turbo to enrich the fuel delivery.  Yours doesn't do that regardless of what that person is telling you that is not a TD IP. Period


Go to the bottom of this thread and see the picture, that is an LDA on top of the IP.  Clearly not on the one you have.

vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php/topic,1757.msg12659.html#msg12659


5
MK2 Golf/Jetta and Audi 5k / Re: Engine Temperature Sender Test
« on: November 11, 2019, 11:24:19 pm »
Good that you have something that you trust that works.  Gauges and senders do age and go wonky at times.  Not sure a new sender will be the cure.  May need a new gauge.  PM me if you do. I have several.  And those stabilizers are not cheap either.  Just buy a spare cluster on Ebay or Craigslist for 40 bucks and get both of them.   

6
User's ride Wall / Re: My dubs
« on: November 11, 2019, 12:58:24 am »
So the fuel delivery is a function of IP diameter area correct?  Thus the Ecos were delivering about 80% of what the normal 1.6 9mm shafts were putting out?

No wonder they got mileage, but sucked for any sort of power.  And the 1.6 power wasn't anything to write home about either. 

7
User's ride Wall / Re: My dubs
« on: November 10, 2019, 10:05:10 pm »
Libby,  Do you happen to know the diameter of the smaller plunger and the bar of pressure those Eco Pumps were putting out? 

I thought the early 1.5 engines and 1.6 were outfitted with 130 bar injectors.  Would those have been put on the eco diesels too. 

Other turbo pumps had the 155 if I have my numbers lined up right.

8
User's ride Wall / Re: Richie my 1983 cabriolet
« on: November 03, 2019, 09:46:46 pm »
My KINGDOM for a garage!!!


Oh, I don't have a Kingdom.  Guess I will never get that garage. 

The one that was originally built as part of my house was converted before I bought the place.  It was small and wouldn't be worth trying to put it back the way it was.  Single, small in the original build. 

9
Ahh forgot to mention about the injector seals.  You can reuse them BUT YOU HAVE TO REShape them.

How to do that?   A pair of vise grip pliers, a steel ball and a socket about 11 or 12mm in size.  I think there is a sticky on it somewhere.  I will look later and edit if it find it.  But here is the process.  Take the shield, place the socket under it as it would be an injector, the flat side.  Then set that combo on the jaw of the vise grip.  Open the grip enough to set the steel ball, about a 3/4 inch one is what I use.  Rob the kids marble set.  Then close the pliers until it comes close to tight.  Adjust the tension a little bit so that you can close them. 

Open them again and tighten a bit more, do this in small stages.  I use an injector to rest it on each time to see when I get to the point where the middle of the shield will rest on the injector and a small line will show on the flat edge.  Once you get to that point you are done squeezing on them. 

What you are trying to do is to get the middle of the shield to hit the injector first when you go to tighten it in place.  That will ensure you will be transferring the heat away from the injector and into the head. 

Hope this all makes sense.  Oh and a warning, if you  have cold hands, knuckles that bind or otherwise hands that aren't real loose you will find this process a pain in the fanny.  It is a balancing act for sure.  The pressure on the ball tends to push the shield off the socket and the lower jaw of the pliers.  Once you practice on it a bit it won't be so hard to do.  And you will not need to spend your money on new ones just to get that curve your injectors need. 

Plenty of places to buy parts from.  Do a search and see.  This was as close as I could come on short look:

http://vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php/topic,36769.msg344804.html#msg344804


Lifting the wagon beats lowering it in my opinion.  I have lifted my Rabbit and Pickup.  I wish I could afford an air system on it just for the sake of raising it to work on it.  If I don't put it up on ramps to work on it my back ends up killing me later on. 

Edit after post::::: Dang second place again.  But I don't mind loosing out to this gentleman.  A great resource IMO.
Got the warning someone else posted while I was writing my stuff.  Libby beats me again.  Thanks guy!!!

10
Majorpardo, Your quest is before you!

I would take the service manuals, a multi meter to measure 12 vdc and resistance, metric sockets and wrenches and a general set of tools like pliers and screwdrivers. 

Just because that DIY button goes click doesn't mean the GPs do anything that they are supposed to.  That is where the meter will come in handy.  Placing it on the glow plugs and clicking the switch will verify you are getting voltage to the proper place.  But even that might not be all you need to have.  Like Libby said if you pull the injectors you can hit that switch and have someone or yourself be looking down those openings where you pulled the injectors and you should see a red glow going on.  You could also test them individually with the meter for resistance.  Infinite resistance, or no needle movement if analog meter, Means non working plug. 

As this thing has sat for several years you may have a fuel problem to sort out as well.  The IP pulls fuel to itself, only if the filter is not restricting the flow, the lines are not leaking and there is not a plugged line going to either the pump or the filter from the tank.

Bringing a means to fuel it from a bottle or jug or jar will go a long way to solving those problems.  If it starts and runs off a line from the bottle to the IP and then back in a closed loop it lets you know all it good on the engine and filters, lines and tank may be a problem.  You can pull the out bolt off and fill the IP from there to a point where it should be able to draw fuel by itself from a bottle.

You need a dial gauge or something to put in the hole in the back of the IP to adjust timing.  Special tools that are a must have to do this correctly.  But If you do get it running it might be all you need to do  to make it better is to loosen the three bolts that hold the IP solid to the front bracket and underneath on the back there is another bolt.  Kind of a pain to get to with the Rad hose in the way but I use an extension on my 3/8 inch drive and a shorter socket.  Then just press against the hose a bit seems to work for me.   

Bring jumper cables and or one of those jumper batteries.  You may need to crank on it more than you think.   Loosen the nuts on the top of the injectors if you don't take them out.  Cranking for a good count of 10 a couple of times should show fuel to that nut.  Don't grind on the starter for long periods of time.  They are doing a lot of work and get hot.  Put your hand on it and see if it is after a couple of tries. 

Good luck, you will be happy to get it running and get better mileage.  You will be saving money only after you buy about 300 dollars in replacement parts.  Yes, old cars that sit are not free. 

11
MK2 Golf/Jetta and Audi 5k / Re: Engine Temperature Sender Test
« on: November 02, 2019, 11:42:43 am »
To verify the sender is working you should pull it off the flange and find a place to heat some water in a pan.  If you have a camp stove or a burner on the BBQ that will keep the EVIL EYE of the wife off you.  If you are like me you just wait till she leaves the house and use the kitchen stove.  Just don't use her best cooking pan for this. 

Add some water to the pan enough to get it to boiling without boiling it away, a couple of inches.  Then put a thermometer in the water or use one of those sensing guns if you have it.  You also will need a multi meter to hook up to the leads and watch the resistance change as it heats up.  It should swing from one reading when cold to another when hot.  I can't tell you the exact values but those might be in the Bentley manual and I might find them later if you need them.  But I do believe, someone tell me otherwise, that the value goes down as the heat goes up.

My logic on that is the voltage on the actual gauge goes up as an indicator that the temperature is going up.  You might try measuring the voltage at cold and then pulling the wire on a hot engine and measuring that.  Just to see if it is changing and by how much. 

What happens if you just run a jumper to the wire from the battery?  Does it show super hot? 

12
IDI Engine / Re: Giles Pump matched to a K14
« on: October 29, 2019, 10:40:14 pm »
Generally it is just gum/varnish/yuck stuff on the shaft and collar parts.  If you ever have taken a pump apart you know how close the tolerance is between those parts.  Tough to get them to slide at times without lubrication from the fuel.

Hope the Purge does the trick.  I wouldn't be afraid to tap the end of the head with a hammer.  That nut that you pull to insert a timing dial gauge.  That would send a vibration down the shaft and potentially pop a stuck collar free.

But that is me. 

13
Troubleshooting / Re: 2013 jetta Diesel Wont start
« on: October 29, 2019, 10:32:25 pm »
Forum is not dead but seems to be moving like an old man since we had the attack of the bots a few months back. 
Then we have also lost some folks to moving on and away from builds, mods and troubleshooting others VW's.

I think most of those viewing are outsiders reading for information and not really wanting to become members.  They don't think they know enough about doing mechanic work to contribute in that manner.  So that may be why you see the numbers but NO answers. 

Personally I don't do GTI stuff, I am limited to IDI.  But in a lot of cases the TDI problems, like a poor start are near the same as IDI.  Fuses, Glow Plugs and relays control all that. 

Another thing I have noticed is that many times the OP could have found the answer if they used the search feature on this forum.  Many just ask the same questions that have been answered in a number of other questions.  That is the first place to start not the last. 

Sorry getting Rant like now.  Time to go.

14
IDI Engine / Re: Giles Pump matched to a K14
« on: October 28, 2019, 11:58:51 pm »
I would not mess with that pressure regulator, just a pain to get it off and no value in doing that.

Do you have a small accessory fuel pump? I would use it to push diesel purge into the IP and get the diesel out through the OUT Bolt.
If you don't have a pump how about one of those big syringes that are used for mixing two stroke oil?  Push that on a piece of fuel line and attach to the IN bolt.

Filling it with purge and letting it set will likely do the trick.  That will allow you to keep the wrenching down to a minimum and keep the pump on the engine. 

If that does not do the trick you can still pop the top on the engine and poke around in there with a small pick or stick. 

Best of Luck. 

15
IDI Engine / Re: Giles Pump matched to a K14
« on: October 27, 2019, 11:01:58 pm »
Could there be a hanging part inside the pump?  Like the throttle spill collar?  Was the pump sitting unused for awhile?  Still doesn't make sense to me why it would be racing to the moon like it is.  Residual fuel in the cylinders would be flushed pretty quickly and you would see a belch of black out the back. 

Not an over run in RPMs. 

I would take a small hammer and go around the top and tap small but sharp wraps on the outside of the case.  Nothing so hard you dent the sucker but some nice clean sharp raps.  Maybe that will free up the linkage.  If that is even the problem.  The throttle lever pulls on the internals of the governor mechanism.  Squeezes springs at the same time it pushes the collar and once it gets past the opening in the secondary shaft that directs the fuel flow it starts to spill it out and you loose RPM/s 

So If you are seeing RPMs that high it very well could be that the fuel screw needs to be backed out some.  Yes, I read your note that it has yellow dots on the settings but that is what causes high RPMs and you may need to break the seal and see if that stops the Revs.

Pull the hose off the IP from the boost just in case that is driving more fuel into the beast too.  Perhaps that cone is being shoved down to early? 

With the pump pulley off you should have that keyway slot in the 10 oclock position that is the number one cylinder position at TDC.  Pumps at 180 out run like crap with smoke and choke all the way. 

Keep going on it.  And maybe a call to Giles would be worth the time.  He may have some simple fix he is willing to share and we could all gain from that. 

Later

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