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Messages - regcheeseman

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1
Can't believe this thread is still running, only popped in to borrow the pic links but thought they may have been ruined by photobucket.

Use chrome browser and apply the photobucket fix and all the pictures reappear - if anyone does want the originals please email me regcheeseman AT btinternet DOT com

2
IDI Engine / Re: 1.6 ip help please!
« on: November 11, 2016, 06:28:21 pm »
Doesn't matter what the timing is set to - it'll still inject.

155s will run fine at 95.

Check the solenoid has power and if you can, feed the pump from an elevated or pressurised supply, it sounds very much like a fuel supply issue.

3
IDI Engine / Re: Changing intercooler plastic end tanks?
« on: November 11, 2016, 06:20:59 pm »
Yes you can swap end tanks, exactly as you suggest, bend back the tabs and fit the new end with a sealant - I've used tiger seal/sikaflex/rhino seal in the past.

Though buying a suitable alloy intercooler may provide a better solution.

4
IDI Engine / Re: Gtd struggling to start
« on: November 11, 2016, 06:16:42 pm »
wont be compression if it runs cleanly once started...if compression was down it'll still start but blow white smoke for a few minutes.

Curveball here - but check that the fuel solenoid is still getting 12v when you turn the key from run to start position - the switch can go faulty and you loose the feed to the solenoid on the last 'click' of the key.

Or hook it up direct to battery with a temporary wire - you will have to remove the wire to stop the engine though.
Thanks for the reply but I'm not gonna lie I wouldn't know what I was looking for the diesel thing is new to me ill have a Google see if I can get a pic to work from I miss gti's lol

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk



Kenny,

When you get it started - does it smoke white or run and idle clean?

The fuel solenoid is a round thing with a single electrical connection on the diesel pump just above where the injector lines fit to the injection pump. It needs to have a 12v feed at all times for the pump to inject diesel. A single wire from battery positive to the spade on the fuel solenoid will eliminate a possible common fault.

Likewise check you have 12v on the glow plugs as mentioned above but a gtd will normally start with no glow plugs working but chuck out clouds of white smoke before it starts and for up to 30 seconds once it does start.

5
IDI Engine / Re: Gtd struggling to start
« on: November 11, 2016, 09:57:45 am »
wont be compression if it runs cleanly once started...if compression was down it'll still start but blow white smoke for a few minutes.

Curveball here - but check that the fuel solenoid is still getting 12v when you turn the key from run to start position - the switch can go faulty and you loose the feed to the solenoid on the last 'click' of the key.

Or hook it up direct to battery with a temporary wire - you will have to remove the wire to stop the engine though.

6
There's a lot of BS spoken about these on the net - just because they are attached to an engine that makes a lot of power, they must be good.

I believed the hype until I saw one for real and thought that's little improvement on the old TD manifold.

I'll stick to the 1Y manifold thanks.


7
IDI Engine / Re: Main pump head seal size
« on: September 20, 2012, 04:32:48 am »
No turns out that the internet is wrong - as the bore on the pump housing is near 68mm - so the bag I had my last lot in with the faded handwritten dimensions of 68 x 2.5 may well be what I have been using

I bought 25 from my local bearing stockist - for less than 5. This was 3-4 years ago, had no reported failures.

8
IDI Engine / Main pump head seal size
« on: September 18, 2012, 06:05:00 am »
Need to get some ordered today, thought I had the information at work but cannot find it....tried a search with no joy

The main pump head o-ring seal it's 68mm O.D. with a 2.5mm wall isn't it?

edit: soem googling has netted me Zexel part number 146600-0000 which is quoted as being 60mm x 2.62mm

Not sure if 60 is the ID or OD???

9
Always up for a challenge, a mate sent me his series 1 revcounter to convert to run on the W terminal on a diesel engine.


I've got it callibrated pretty close, it reads a little low below 1K but then is good round to 7000.
The position it is sat on at the start and end of the video is 900 rpm - which is 214Hz

10
Parts for Sale/Wanted / For sale, VNT controller actuator?
« on: March 15, 2012, 12:38:18 pm »
I've got a wastegate actuator can from a uk AAZ engine here.



It has a port on both sides of the diaphragm - would be useful for VNT control?

20 plus postage

11
IDI Engine / Re: Slight overheating - pump timing?
« on: February 07, 2012, 09:47:53 am »
no, not pegged the gauge as in maxxed out.

As in the needle sat at halfway and didn't budge, maybe creep up 1mm on a long hard climb

As soon as the 1.9 went in the guage would stay in exactly the same place until the motor was pushed hard when it would climb rapidly and seemingly burp a bit of coolant out of the rad (no header)
After a few times doing this the coolant would be getting low and the overheating would get progressively worse, I never let it get into the red.

Quote
Is this the 1.6 block / 1.9 head engine you mentioned in another thread ?

Same head but with a 1.9 block and the 1.9 injectors

I'll set the timing back down to 1.00 and see how it goes....

12
IDI Engine / Re: ultimate-ish 1.6td build?
« on: February 06, 2012, 06:06:25 pm »
Quote
AAZ head if you can get your hands on one

Dont - just don't.

If there is one piece of advice I really regret taking from this forum it's the BS spouted about the 1.9 head. It'll run like a sack of plop and be useless as a daily.

Unless you like driving something that clacks really bad because of the necessary advance or smokes like hell when first started up (yeah yeah you can run block heaters etc - but that really isn't practical for a usable vehicle

In all other respects you have outlined my previous 1.6 engine build

ported and flowed
vnt
long runner twin plenum manifold
girdle
I ran a 10mm pump - it was noisy and pointless as the 9mm will supply easily enough juice
intercooler
arp head bolts
90a high output alt - it's load on the motor will only be proportional to he electrical load placed on it - there is no real difference in practice.

Good luck with the build.

13
IDI Engine / Re: Slight overheating - pump timing?
« on: February 06, 2012, 05:55:19 pm »
I'm running 155bar injectors instead of the 135s the pump had originally.

Internally the pump is spot on, the engine has just been rebuilt and the cam timing is bang on.

I was turning the motor on the cam pulley so that would equate to a small difference.

It is definitely running hot though - the previous 1.6 engine pegged the gauge at a fraction under the halfway mark. The 1.9 is fine until you start to push it. I've bought a performance rad and new low temp fan switch - hopefully that will keep it in check.

14
IDI Engine / Re: If I use this (slightly damaged) cam....
« on: February 04, 2012, 06:21:48 am »
I did that to a cam two weeks ago when I forgot the locking bar was still in  ::)

I used a small grinding disc to put a chamfer on the leading edge of the cracked piece to prevent it from gouging into the cam retainer caps.

15
IDI Engine / Re: Slight overheating - pump timing?
« on: February 04, 2012, 06:18:58 am »
I checked the pump timing and surprisingly it was not a bit retarded as assumed but running 1.20 lift, I knocked it back to factory 0.95 setting and it struggled to start, coughing and spluttering even with cold advance pulled.
I've set it back to around 1.2 again.

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