VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: larry104 on June 17, 2007, 08:45:21 pm
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First, I’d like to thank the people on this board for making it all possible. Through here I hooked up with Giles for the modded pump, Daryl at AA Transaxle for the trans rebuild, and Jack at VW Diesel Parts. This is a great resource and I’ve learned a lot.
Details:
Neuspeed Softsport springs
Koni adjustable shocks
Snowflake rims
GTI grille w/Hella E-code lamps
2.25-in. stainless steel mandrel-bend down pipe and exhaust
Giles pump
GTD nozzles
GTD intercooler with thermostatically controlled fan, handmade air inlet and ducting. (the vice-grip trick I learned here works great for making lips on the tubing!)
Combo EGT/Boost gage
Boost controller -- 15 psi
3.67 ring/pinion, 0.71 5th
Audiovox cruise control
When I bought this car two years ago, it was, in my estimation, dangerously underpowered. Granted, this is my first diesel, and I was used to gassers. But I was determined to make it run better. All I can say is, I am totally impressed with the performance now. Giles trick pump made a HUGE difference. Thank you! The intercooler makes surprising, seat-of-the-pants gains in both torque and top end (I never would have believed it). No doubt the high-flow exhaust is a big factor as well. The added power easily handles the taller gearing. The car is a blast to drive. Thanks again all. :D
http://www.geocities.com/waloo321/P1010400.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/waloo321/P1010395.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/waloo321/P1010393.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/waloo321/P1010390.JPG
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Beautiful car, digging the GTD intercooler setup. Must be a blast to drive.
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Very nice :D
Can you explain the vise grip trick?
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Awesome. So do you have a TD pump? Stock turbo?
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Can you explain the vise grip trick?
You'll need a pair of vice grips and a large spike, like 0.125 in. diameter. Grind a circumferential groove in the lower jaw near the end to hold the nail. Bend the nail around and into the groove. Cut off the excess. Grind a mating "die" in the upper jaw to match the nail diameter. Find a suitable stop to keep the depth consistent. I used a miniature hose clamp. Walk the tool around the pipe end with the nail side inside. Clamp, release, etc... Tighten the vice grip a little and do it again. It works well, at least on 0.049-in. 304 aluminum tubing.
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Awesome. So do you have a TD pump? Stock turbo?
Yes, TD pump. Stock K14.
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Very nice :D
Can you explain the vise grip trick?
I think there is a thread with pics. I think Named TinTin posted it. I made a pair also, and they work on steel exhaust pipe as well.
Nice job on your car, it looks very well done.
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Love it, exactly what I'd like to do with mine some day.
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Nice ride!
r with thermostatically controlled fan
Where did you get the thermal switch? At what temps does it turn/turn off?
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rainbow electronics sells a thermostat that opens at 0C - 120C :) pretty cheap too... I have one :)
http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=1694&start=0
Jake was the one who had the vice grip trick :) nice pics too!
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rainbow electronics sells a thermostat that opens at 0C - 120C :) pretty cheap too... I have one :)
Cool, thanks for the tip, I'll call them tomorrow!
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Nice ride!
r with thermostatically controlled fan
Where did you get the thermal switch? At what temps does it turn/turn off?
Electronic Surplus. Normally open and closes at 120 deg F. It's attached to the surface of the intercooler at the inlet side.
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Where did you get the thermal switch? At what temps does it turn/turn off?
Electronic Surplus. Normally open and closes at 120 deg F. It's attached to the surface of the intercooler at the inlet side.
I couldn't find such an item on their website, was it listed under "thermostat" or "thermistor"?
EDIT- Is this (http://www.electronicsurplus.com/commerce/ccp75129-4pin-288dip-pkg29-50-deg-c-n-o--closes-on-temp-rise-66f050-13109.htm) the one you used?
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Where did you get the thermal switch? At what temps does it turn/turn off?
Electronic Surplus. Normally open and closes at 120 deg F. It's attached to the surface of the intercooler at the inlet side.
I couldn't find such an item on their website, was it listed under "thermostat" or "thermistor"?
EDIT- Is this (http://www.electronicsurplus.com/commerce/ccp75129-4pin-288dip-pkg29-50-deg-c-n-o--closes-on-temp-rise-66f050-13109.htm) the one you used?
Not everything in their store is on their Website. I'd suggest calling them. It's called a thermal switch. The one I have works either normally open or normally closed (three terminals). I use it normally open.
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Where did you get the thermal switch? At what temps does it turn/turn off?
Electronic Surplus. Normally open and closes at 120 deg F. It's attached to the surface of the intercooler at the inlet side.
I couldn't find such an item on their website, was it listed under "thermostat" or "thermistor"?
EDIT- Is this (http://www.electronicsurplus.com/commerce/ccp75129-4pin-288dip-pkg29-50-deg-c-n-o--closes-on-temp-rise-66f050-13109.htm) the one you used?
jackbombay,
sent you a pm.
larry
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jackbombay,
sent you a pm.
larry
Thanks, I called them but they were super busy, I sent them an e-mail but have yet to get a response.
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Just curious about the k14 with TD pump. Does it feel faster at low rpm than a K24 car? Does the K14 bolt on easily to a regular TD engine or do you have to do some kind of manifold fabrication?
Anybody know if the k14 off a 1.9 will fit on the 1.6?
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Just curious about the k14 with TD pump. Does it feel faster at low rpm than a K24 car? Does the K14 bolt on easily to a regular TD engine or do you have to do some kind of manifold fabrication?
Anybody know if the k14 off a 1.9 will fit on the 1.6?
I've not owned a TD with a K24 to compare, but I'd expect the K14 would respond faster with less lag because it's smaller. My car came with the K14 so no mods were needed. Someone here can likely answer your questions about a turbo swap. I've read here that putting a K24 on a K14 manifold requires some clearancing for the exhaust scroll. My guess is a K14 would bolt right on a K24 manifold without mods.
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Nice ride!
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I just checked mileage yesterday. Combined city/hiqhway (65 to 80 mph) driving with about 50% A/C-on is 44 mpg. I haven't done an all-highway road trip yet, but I'm hoping to push 50 mpg. I love it. WAY better performance than the stock state of tune but the same mileage. :mrgreen:
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where does one find this intercooler setup?
ME WANTEE!!!!
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where does one find this intercooler setup?
ME WANTEE!!!!
Pure happenstance. A guy was selling an m-TDI on Ebay with a GTD intercooler. I emailed him and he happen to have one more GTD intercooler laying around. I bought it on the spot. It had the plastic inlet and bracket (which I couldn't use because my car has air). I ended up welding a stud to the radiator fan shroud. Works well. I fabbed the rest of the inlet and battery cover out of UHDPE. The tubes are made from 2" aluminum mandrel bends with silicone adapters.
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I would change the thermal switch to the intercooler outlet rather than the inlet. If it is at the inlet, then the fan will run any time there is boost regardless of the natural airflow through the intercooler. If it were placed at the outlet, the fan would only run when the flow natural flow through the intercooler was not adequate to cool it off. That way you would save fuel (the fuel required to drive the alt to generate the added fan current) and extend the life of the fan with no downside.
Andrew
I figured by the time the outlet reached 120 F, the intercooler would be heat soaked, which is why I put it on the inlet. The switch mounts on the outside surface touching the tubes. If I had a switch with a separate thermocouple probe that measured the actual outlet flow temp, and not the surface, I would agree. But the problem might then be that the fan would cycle on and off every time you goosed it. Attaching the switch to the IC body integrates out the temperature spikes. I have a relay in the circuit because the thermal switch can't reliably handle the 5 amps that the fan draws. I think the relay is more likely to fail than the fan. Interestingly, the fan has come on only once that I know of. And that was on a hot day when the under hood temps were high. I wouldn't have guessed that this intercooler setup works as well as it does without a fan. Apparently a lot of air can get around the headlight.
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That way you would save fuel (the fuel required to drive the alt to generate the added fan current) and extend the life of the fan with no downside.
Andrew
Andrew, I thought about what you said. The fan draws 5A at 12 Vdc = 60 W or 60/746 = 0.08 hp. Assuming the alternator is 50% efficient, that's 0.16 hp drawn from the engine. I probably wouldn't notice the economy hit, even if the fan were to run continuously.
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Well, there you have it, no need for a thermoswitch at all and as you said earlier likely no need for a fan either.
Andrew
Yep. All the talk about heat soak had me a little concerned, which is why I installed the fan. No reason to yank it now other than saving a pound or two. I might put an LED indicator in the dash just to verify how often it runs.