VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Barry W on June 05, 2007, 10:16:10 pm
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I need the link to the main bearing mod that I had seen a few months back. Anyone got that? Done it? Or give me any tips or quick referance?
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you mean the 3 piece bearings???
i'm in need of those as well, but for a 1Z TDI.
anyone have any part numbers??? I can't find the 1Z in my ETKA... I need the europe version!
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The "mod" is just that you buy the 6 piece main/thrust bearing and reuse the old thrust bearings so you don't have the machine them because they are already set for that engine.
This is what you want (for a 1.6 TD)
http://parts.autopartsonlinecanada.com/parts/apocanada/quote.jsp?year=1991&product=A2010-188744&application=001060248&part=Main%20Bearing%20Set&category=A
NOT THIS (which has the thrust bearings built into the main bearing)
http://parts.autopartsonlinecanada.com/parts/apocanada/quote.jsp?year=1991&product=A2010-38652&application=000227875&part=Main%20Bearing%20Set&category=A
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Why would re using the old Thrust Bearings be better than using new ones of the same size?
Rudy
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Thanks guys! :)
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Why would re using the old Thrust Bearings be better than using new ones of the same size?
Rudy
x2
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Why would re using the old Thrust Bearings be better than using new ones of the same size?
x2
x3
I don't get it.
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Bit of a "religious" debate... the old-style thrust bearings are built using 3 separate parts and have about twice the thrust surface area of the new bearing design (one part with an integrated lip on both sides). There have been some reports of the new design self-machining the crank surface.... the idea being half the surface area equals double the force on the crank.
So, some people buy two sets of bearings, toss the thrust bearing, and re-use 2 of the 3 pieces of the old thrust bearing along with a new shell.
Vince
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anyone have the link here?
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well i think all that i am going to do is make sure i put the bottom end back together the way it was originally (if the bearings that the machine shop buy look any different, then they will not be going in..).. i mean it's been driven for 130'000km or so and looks good to me!
all this thrust washer and bearings not to buy... hmmmm
so I need 4 thrust washers correct?
http://parts.autopartsonlinecanada.com/parts/apocanada/wizard.jsp?year=1996&make=VW&model=PAS-TD-001&category=A&part=Thrust+Bearing
and I need this, correct? Are the kollbenschmidt any better than other brands like their pistons???
http://parts.autopartsonlinecanada.com/parts/apocanada/quote.jsp?year=1996&product=A2030-125994&application=000561278&part=Rod%20Bearing%20Set&category=A
And I need this set right? without thrust washers???
http://parts.autopartsonlinecanada.com/parts/apocanada/quote.jsp?year=1996&product=A2010-188744&application=001060260&part=Main%20Bearing%20Set&category=A
anything else i should get?
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You got it.
Have you miked your oil pump... they're cheap from these guys and nows the time to do it if your's is worn.
Other thoughtsL Oil pan gasket ? Assembly lube ? New oil filter for the minute runin ?
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new oil filter and i have the windage tray that comes with the reusable rubber gasket.
i bought assembly lube & quickseat from total seal too. i'm probably buying a new oil pump just to be sure... and water pump too.
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Hmmm... did you find a Canadian supplier for the windage tray ??
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carquest should be able to get it for you. I might still have the world-pac #
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Hmmm... did you find a Canadian supplier for the windage tray ??
That autopartsonlinecanada.com has them.
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I was just talking to a machine shop guy and he showed me both types of bearings... he says that the design of the all in one bearing should be superior because it has guides that hold it into place.
the only reason not to use those type of bearings is because of the way that the clutch on our dubs works right???
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I think the reason not to use the one-piece is because the thrust bearing surface area is too small and the crankshaft gets damaged from them because of it.
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i think another reason to go for the later style big end bearing and seperate thrust bearings, these were standard on the Sb (GTD) engines which were the most evolved as Vw were already developing the 1.9's.
the Sb's have the 360 style main upgrade and seperate thrusts as standard.
hillshy
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It is only the replacement bearings which have the integral thrust. All of the VW inline-4 engines had the separate thrust bearings from the factory.
Andrew
and they're known to last 500'000km+ so that's good enough for me.
Thanks a lot for the input guys!!!
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Read the 2nd post (recommend glyco & stay away from integral thrust)
http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=8409&highlight=thrust
Read 2nd post (Never ever use integral thrust)
http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=8072&highlight=thrust
Dr Diesel's integral thrust killed his crank
http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=399
Pics of size difference of thrust surface
http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=1908&highlight=thrust
fsbGTD had a failure too
http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=1694&&start=37
Another guy whose bearing destroyed his crank with pics (gasser's have these problems too)
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2832725&page=1
More of the same
http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=6843&highlight=thrust
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I need the link to the main bearing mod that I had seen a few months back. Anyone got that? Done it? Or give me any tips or quick referance?
myke_w mentiones the Mod in this thread.
http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=6843&highlight=thrust
myke_w started a thread with the Mod here.
(buy two sets of KB bearings or use Glyco)
http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=3611
I spoke to myke_w on the phone and he explained the mod to me. I thought I understood what the purpose was till I looked at my block/crank/pump ect (lube system). Now I dont understand. I understand how to install the bearings but I dont understand why. As per his recommendation I got the Glyco bearings for a full 360 degree lube slot in #4 main bearing (with seperate thrust of course).
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The Bentley is wrong. It's happened before ($&@*^&* Fox wiper motor instructions!!). The Bentley shows the #3 main supplying oil to the #2 rod. I sure don't think so, my crankshaft's #3 main has no oil holes! It appears that main #1 oils rod #1, main #2 oils rod #2, main #4 oils rod #3, and main #5 oils rod #4.
So... I don't get it either. Main #4 (which oils rod #3, right?) appears no different than any of the other mains. The crankshaft has two holes there just like all the others. I can see light through the passage so no matter where the crank is on its rotation, it should be getting oil from one hole or the other, right?
It would also seem that the lower main bearings take the worst beating (power stroke). Wouldn't putting a bearing shell with an oil groove there reduce the available bearing surface area by about 1/3 and accelerate wear 33%?
Further, why would a main bearing oil the head? Main saddle #4 just has one hole, how could it oil the head? Doesn't the head have it's own passage drilled into the oil galley?
I'm sure myke_w has more engine knowledge in his little finger than I could ever lay claim to, but... I don't get it. Please explain. :D
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The Bentley is wrong. It's happened before ($&@*^&* Fox wiper motor instructions!!). The Bentley shows the #3 main supplying oil to the #2 rod. I sure don't think so, my crankshaft's #3 main has no oil holes! It appears that main #1 oils rod #1, main #2 oils rod #2, main #4 oils rod #3, and main #5 oils rod #4.
Welcome to my world. Every day I swim through a sea of mis-information to diagnose cars in my job. My latest swim is figuring out if main bolts are stretch. I've found two posts that say they are but cant believe everything you read on the internet ya know.
So... I don't get it either. Main #4 (which oils rod #3, right?) appears no different than any of the other mains. The crankshaft has two holes there just like all the others. I can see light through the passage so no matter where the crank is on its rotation, it should be getting oil from one hole or the other, right?
That's what I dont understand.
It would also seem that the lower main bearings take the worst beating (power stroke). Wouldn't putting a bearing shell with an oil groove there reduce the available bearing surface area by about 1/3 and accelerate wear 33%?
Yes, kind of sort of.... the crank should "float" on a film of oil and hardly touch the bearings but I'm starting to think that stock bearings might be better also.
Further, why would a main bearing oil the head? Main saddle #4 just has one hole, how could it oil the head? Doesn't the head have it's own passage drilled into the oil galley?
Yeah! What he said.
I'm sure myke_w has more engine knowledge in his little finger than I could ever lay claim to, but... I don't get it. Please explain. :D
I wish he would pipe in here. I am expecting a reply back from him
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Tylernet said:
.... y crankshaft's #3 main has no oil holes!
My crank is like that also. Note: #3 is also the main with thrust.
More thoughts on this.
With regards to stock main bearings with the top bearing with a oil groove and bottom bearing flat (ignore #3 for now since it has no oil holes). As the crank is spinning one oil hole in the crank is in the the grooved bearing all the time and the 2nd oil hole is up against the flat bearing all the time (obviously there is a "branch" coming off the passageway between the two holes going to lube the rod bearing).
Do you think that the 2nd hole (the one not in the oil groove as the crank rotates) is providing lube to the flat bearing??
CoolAirVw said:
....the crank should "float" on a film of oil and hardly touch the bearings.....
Maybe that 2nd hole provides some oil pressure to the flat bearing to "float" the crank. Or maybe just to lube it some.
Ok using this theory lets look at the #3 journal with no holes. Top bearing still has the groove bottom bearing still is flat. Hows that flat side get lube? With stock configuration it only gets what is squeezed in from the groove through the clearance in the bearing. Take into account that the thrust bearing is surrounding this main and is lubed by the oil pressure leaking out of the bearing.
My idea is this. The Main Mod shouldn't be #4 for Rod/head lube. The Main Mod should be put the bearing with 360 degree lube channel on the #3 to improve lube to lower main bearing and to lube 360 degrees of the thrust bearing.
I'm gonna look at some of the pic of failed thrust bearings to see if they failed on the bottom or top.
Please let me know what you think.
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My idea is this. The Main Mod shouldn't be #4 for Rod/head lube. The Main Mod should be put the bearing with 360 degree lube channel on the #3 to improve lube to lower main bearing and to lube 360 degrees of the thrust bearing.
That sounds much more reasonable than messing with main #4.
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myke_w talked to his source today and I talked to myke_w on the phone. The upgrade helps during times when the oil gets aerated. He may be posting a document from VW to demonstate. I'll let him answer any questions.
My goofy theory on putting 360 degree bearing on #3 was shot down. :roll:
Richard
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well this is all about learning man. i love learning! i'm glad that this info is coming out now that i'm rebuilding my bottom end :)
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well this is all about learning man. i love learning! i'm glad that this info is coming out now that i'm rebuilding my bottom end :)
Agreed, i'm learning as well. :wink:
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Sorry I've been AWOL... busy as I've ever been and ready for calm.
Ok, So sorry to make everybody wait.
The history of this mod-
I worked under a guy who has been turning wrenches on VW's for over 30 years (dealer and independently) and he has always pumped doctrine into my head and I don't really question it, cause he has tons of experience on VW Audi only VERY rarely wrong, and that's usually good enough for me.
This is also one of those cases, I know it's an upgrade firstly because he told me so, secondly because AFAIK every gas 4 cyl motor past 83 had it fitted. Most diesels past 83 AFAIK also have it.
This change persists all the way through the 1.8 8v gas cars, the na diesel 1.6, turbo diesel 1.6, ecodiesel, 1.9td's, ALH TDI's, 1.8t's and into the TDI-PD BEW code. In other words, they aren't doing it by chance.
So, obviously I'd like to know why he told me this so I called him up. (He's old school and doesn't really do the computer thing so I'm as close as it gets to his word). In other words, I wanted to make sure my story is right.
He says,
The story goes back to the old 1600 beetle motor. Apparently on hard cornering, the beetle would momentarily lose oil pressure even though it wasn't low on oil. (I have no I have no idea about the 1600 BTW) so they decided to use grooves in the crank itself.. This apparently helps to purge air bubbles from the oil more quickly and would preserve oil pressure. Not sure what year this happened, a blank that needs filled in obviously.
In the early diesel and gas cars (pre-83) they had a lot of the same issues, in fact they apparently were wiping out mains and #3 rod especially and putting holes in the blocks with oil still in the motor, and the mechanics at the dealers could pretty much tell how the motor died by looking at the mains. If #1 rod was trashed, then they just straight ran it out of oil (#1 rod is furthest from the pump) the low oil thing was common because they had valve seal issues then too, and the motors consumed ALOT of oil. But if #3 rod was trashed then they knew it had to be an aeration related failure. In conjunction they'd see the cam bearings all scratched to hell occasionally. Apparently this became a big deal and they were having to warranty motors right and left.
So they started adding the #4 main 360 slot.
The theory is that because #4 main lubes #3 rod, and #4 main oiling hole comes off the main galley right under where the head ooiling hole takes off from the main galley, that it would be the most affected by a pressure drop because of air or any "other reason I suppose"(it has to compete with the head for oil supply). I think this is even more true as hydraulic motors came in, because if they starved for oil at the head, you get to collapse lifter. I also think this is one of the reasons they went to the 36mm gear oil pump.
EDIT: also for those who dont have 2 holes in the #4 journal, the slot allows lubrication to #3 rod 100% of the time rather than only 50%.
So,
I'm bugging him for dealer documentation to the techs for the 83 model year that he says explains the changes in models and why they did it, this I think will put the issue (it's roots at least) to rest.
The pure fact that every car since 83 had this upgrade (with a few possible exceptions) show that it's a factory correction. It's done for a reason. To not do it, seems to undo a correction they intended.
I'm not so sure on the theory about loading the bearing too much with a slot in the bottom, these cranks are wicked stiff. Add the fact that TDI PD's are rocking 180 lb out of the gate (way more in Europe) and they have the same bearing..
Anyway, I hope to post a copy of the documentation soon.
Hope I've helped... :D
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I would suggest http://www.autopartsway.ca. They have great service. I always buy my parts from them.
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You should try http://www.autopartsway.ca. They have all the parts from the above links at better pricing. Haven't tried them yet, but a friend got volvo parts (http://www.autopartsway.ca/autoparts/ymks.cfm?VehicleSearch=VO) form them and said everything was good. In my opinion definitely worth a try to save some bucks.
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I have an account with autocamping, they have been great. Hight quality parts for a cheap price. You have to have a PST number to get an account. Autocamping caries parts for VW , Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Volvo. Main bearing set for my aaz cabrio were $34
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If you need any autoparts go to www.autopartsway.ca Save time and the money!
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Vincent something is a little unclear here the link provided shows two different oil pumps one at $68 the other at $266 , not too clear on which is correct. Thanks Dan
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just glued the pan on my 1.6 TD Eco yesterday....new rods, mains, auxiliary shaft bearings.....low and behold I read this thread this morning.....I realize I'm using the crappy two piece thrust bearing....***e!!!!.....this was my K14 rebuild day.....so I dig through two sets of used mains come up with a decent looking pair and some nice looking thrusts.....unglue yon' pan, remove seal holders, ubolt all the mains and slip in the pair of used mains and thrusts.....everything plastiguaged out perfect....thrust clearance that of a new motor.....ohhh well.....tomorrow will be turbo day..... :D
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Did the 1 piece bearings you removed have copper or metal for the crank to ride on?
I notice Jake fspGTD had no problem with the 1 piece thrust bearings that had copper riding against the crank,... hard to imagine copper tearing up a crank,... but I'm having a hard time getting anyone with bearings messing up their crank to tell me the brand that did the damage.
I'm guessing kolbensmidt (sp?) 1 piece are copper and cause no damage.
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Well according to one thread on Vortex it was Clevite bearings that caused problems.
I just bought new bearings for my TDI and got Kolbenschmidt mains with Federal Mogul thrusts, both of which are identical in design to the original VW ones I took out. Why the mix I don't know - just what my engine shop could get hold of I guess.
Mains are KW 77 152 600 STD (for 1.9)
Thrusts are AEW4022 STD (for all)
Mikki x
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Is it STILL the consensus, almost 2 decades later, that all the main bearings made
with integrated thrust washers are no good? I dropped off a 1.6 ME engine at a machine
shop and have been looking for bearings, it is quite a PIA. Nobody has all the pieces
in stock, some say they do, but still don't. I've already got stuff I need from 3 different
venders, and still don't have bearings because prices,what is available, and what's recommended
looks like a ***show.
Are KING 2pc bearings going work or are those also destroying crankshafts?
I got some oversized Arco pistons, goetze rings, and machine shop says my crank looks
good, just get standard bearings.
Some even say glyco and KS bearings (2pc) aren't as great as they use to be.
I'm not going to spend $200+ on crank and rod bearings and NO thrust washers.
Hansauto has 3-piece mains for $20, imagine that, and the thrust washers included.
This is just a 1.6D NA., not a track or burnout car. Just trying make a tight,
functional engine.
Is there anyone left that knows or even cares? Seems like the vendors don't and certainly not VAG.
I tried to read up all I could but it seems the discussions ended 18 years ago and most of the
links go nowhere. I get it that people have moved on. I've had a 1.5D rebuilt before, now I'm
trying to stick to 12mm blocks.
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WOW, I didn't know parts were so hard to get. I am assuming you have tried Rock Auto and maybe that parts place in MI.
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Rockauto has some, not all. Oddly they offer a thrust washer in one size by KING, for mk2 only?,
but KING bearings are 2 piece. So does that mean that people should buy the Glyco bearings somewhere else to use King thrust washers from RA? lol.
Or is the recommended thing still just to buy 2 sets of bearings to use thrust washers sold seperately.
btw, those alleged thrust washers are not seen anywhere else and may be a Rockauto glitch.
RockAto does have mains and rod bearings in ITM right now, which are made by ? and get internet
ratings of 'garbage' to 'just ok'.
Sure would be nice to know if the American made King bearings that claim to be specifically for vw's
actually work because the imported stuff seems to drying up.
I think I'm just going to get them from Summit Racing and hope for the best.
They seem to be big supplier of King bearings.
I'm not going for whatever PartPlace is showing. No part number, no brands, no sale.
Techtonics claims to have a set of the (g)old glycos mains WITH :o washers.
Kudos to them for stocking up, but kinda
out of my price range for regular 1.6D slug. $150 to get regular main and rod bearings there.
Edit: So I did go with Summit Racing, they have really good prices on King bearings.
Such a good price, I got 2 sets of mains, rod bearings, and stocked up on 3 sets of
sealedpower int shft bearings to slide for free shipping.
The Clevite rod bearings on RockAuto are probably better, but at least the general opinion on the
aluminum King bearings is they wear well.
I bet bearings will continue to go up next year, lol, like all the other precious metals.
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SgnimjJ96, You have some very good parts connections.
You used to post them on vwdieselparts.com and have saved me a bunch.
So if you are having a hard time finding parts, they must be getting hard to find.
Makes me glad I have some in the hoard.
My buddy was looking for pistons lately and had a tough time. I had to dig into the hoard for him.
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I think the low demand, shipping costs, and tariffs are making anything imported harder to find.
This is why I posted hoping for King bearings reviews because they seem to be the most
available. Turns out King bearings are also imported, made in Israel.
Clevites are actually the only ones made in the US still, according to ChatGPT, but they are
also under the Mahle brand so they may still be imported.
Clevite CB-1426A rod bearings are listed on Rockauto,
Clevite mains are pretty hard to find, not sure they even exist for a mk2 diesel.
Summit Racing had the best price. For now, King mains only $26 for the bi-metals.
For that price, got 2 sets, just in case I want to do the hack and maybe use/reuse
real thrust washers. I'll find out if it's even doable, vw washers and king bearings.
I got 2 sets of mains,set of king rod bearings, and 3 sets of intermed bearings for $119.
Still just getting warmed up, got some freeze plugs from Oreilys.
They actually sell the pioneer pe144r kit w/ the 4 lg and 1small plugs for
the hidden price of $2.49, catch is shipping (from TX) - $16. So I spent 32 bucks and
got 6 kits to hoard. ::)
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And this explains why in ten years he will be cleaning his garage and putting those extra 5 kits on Craigslist or where ever for cheap. Just dust them off first. I really don't understand those who are selling stuff that don't wipe it off, wash it off or present it in a manner that makes you want to purchase it.
Those cars buried in the mud with squirrel nests in the rain tray and seats that are shredded and moldy are not worth the 5,000 dollars you are asking for that truck, I don't think they are that rare actually, not just yet.
I could be wrong.
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ha, consumerism is quite an addiction. More, more, more! and then, please make this go away!
Then the doctor says 'You need more fiber in your diet, and stay hydrated', here, buy this...
The movie 'Idiocracy' was barely showed in theaters when it came out because big corporations
didn't like it's portrayal of where consumerism was taking society. Looks like they had nothing to
fear.
btw, I got the 12mm block I'm trying to rebuild for $60, guy was asking 100 and I didn't ask for less.
He was just glad to get it out of garage, then he gave me more stuff... ::)
Kinda cool, it's a mechanical ME block, single oil drain.
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I ordered from this place once:
https://tornau-motoren.de/en/g/10004608/thrust-washers-for-audi-skoda-vw-026198421-026198421-056105635b-029as18668000?make=VW&model=GOLF%20II%20(19E,%201G1)&motorType=1.6%20TD&carId=1659&powerKw=51&ccmTech=1588&yearOfConstrFrom=198308&yearOfConstrTo=199110
Even though it's in germany it got here pretty quick.
Easier to search with a part number.
KS rod bearings
https://tornau-motoren.de/en/g/10019708/connecting-rod-bearing-std-from-kolbenschmidt-for-1-7-d-jx-cs-ky-87464600-026105701-033105701?make=VW&model=GOLF%20II%20(19E,%201G1)&motorType=1.6%20TD&carId=1659&powerKw=51&ccmTech=1588&yearOfConstrFrom=198308&yearOfConstrTo=199110
One notch head gaskets can be hard to find:
https://tornau-motoren.de/en/g/10018968/gasket-cylinder-head-1-notch-for-vw-t3-1-6-d-td-victor-reinz-61-29025-40-jx-cs?make=VW&model=GOLF%20II%20(19E,%201G1)&motorType=1.6%20TD&carId=1659&powerKw=51&ccmTech=1588&yearOfConstrFrom=198308&yearOfConstrTo=199110
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They do have the KS main bearing set that goes with the separate thrust bearings
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Wow, THAT looks like the way to go for the german bearings, etc.
Looks kinda creepy at first, but since you've travelled that path for us
Now we know! Thanks, G.I.Fatmobile!
I almost was going to use an 11mm block,
CR out of a vanagon (hard life) but still together. Got it for $100 complete, lol
but I don't much like the 11mm's after having one crack on me.
The CR that I'm replacing right now is probably cracked. Someone
did a hail mary headgasket job that failed and the headbolts were so
tight I had to buy the special 1/2 drive long hex bit to safely get them out.
One actually almost severed at the threaded section (crack!) but a bit of metal hung on
and it came out so I could get the cyl head off, close call with those old bolts.
After this 12mm ME block I may take the vanagon's 11mm apart and have the machinist
check out it out and maybe just put hans bearings in it and set it aside. I wouldn't run
it, as is. It was re-ringed by the young guy I bought it from, diy (first time), and
he never installed it, then sold the vanagon - got out. It's a nice thought to just have a
backup engine standing-by as some people around here refer to these old diesels as
"rotary grenades", haha which is totally appropriate. I hear the rod bearings take an
exceptional beating, so I may re-think going cheap on those.
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When building an engine the rod bushings are very important.
New ones get pressed in and then they get reamed to fit the piston pins.
Having a machine shop that takes the time to do it right is very important.
We used to have 4 machine shops in our local town.
We now have one.
When I rebuild another engine, I'll send the rods down to franko in Missouri.
The last one I rebuilt is too loud/ klanky. Runs starts great but I suspect the machine shop left too much slop in the bushings.
I have a 12mm, mechanical, block with one scored piston and it's already bored second over.
That german site has KS sleeves for $100.
I'm so tempted to have it sleeved, then buy standard pistons (if I can find them) and save that block.
Another option is to have it bored for 1.7 pistons, also available at the german site.
But then I'd have to get a special $200 metal head gasket made for it, because 1.7 pistons won't fit through a 1.6 head gasket.
On the hydraulic blocks I can use a metal head gasket from a 1.9 AAZ.
It would be nice to sell that block cheap, (I'd probably even give it away) and let someone else bring it back.
I also have a hydraulic block with worn pistons, that needs bored. Plan to use the 1.7 pistons I got from moto touran in that block.
Then I have one more 1.6 TD block that is used but still runs good.
Won't start well in the very very cold without a block heater but it's a great summer engine.
I was kind of surprised how fast the 1.7 pistons got here when I ordered them from germany.
Not sure what would be added to their prices due to tariffs. I don't think that's what it means when they say VAT included.
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Good to know, I feel like the guy I have my block with is the last "affordable"
machine shop left. Just a older guy (never seen a helper) with the tools of that trade
and old blocks/heads all over the place. The rest that pop up on goo maps
as machine shops are "performance" builders, fancy mechanics,
and CNC machining companies.
What's the deal with sleeves, cheaper ones like rockauto don't hold up as well as the KS's?
Hans has those things for 20 bucks.
AI says tariffs on german parts are 0-5%, didn't expect that.
Price increases are probably more subject to the weakening dollar, and how shipping is.
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I used to have a machine shop like that.
Make sure you tip him.
$25 instead of $20 at hans isn't much of a difference. Ignoring shipping costs, but hopefully a big order might spread out the shipping costs.
I do like Kolbenschmidt (sp?) parts. Sleeves might be better metal than the block and might last longer.
I don't really know what size of sleeves I need. The german site had good info on what the dimensions are and they sounded right.
Resleeving that block isn't high on the list, might never get done.
I probably won't toss that block though, because there are still these options.
I might find someone local that wants to put some money into it, put it back into use.
The dollar is flopping compared to the euro.
With everything going on over in EU I was expecting the euro to drop. Might still happen.
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I'm pretty sure from reading around that themain (and rod?) bolts for the 1.6D's
are reusable.
Is there anything about reusing those bolts I should be wary of,
or should I get just new ones? (if that's even feasible)
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Have reused mine without fail. I did smooth washers on sandpaper to give a new bite where needed.
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I've almost always reused them.
I think I used ARP rod bolts on at least one engine.