VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
General Information => General => Topic started by: Lovechick on May 28, 2007, 03:26:38 pm
-
I spent part of this gorgeous holiday weekend here in the states getting old Penelope (my '88 converted Golf) up and running. New battery, air in the tires, etc. I wasn't on the road 10 minutes when I was nailed from behind by a driver who failed to notice traffic stopping ahead for a red light. She (there's a shocker!) explained to the cops that she momentarily "looked away." In addition to wrecking the rear end, the collision sent the battery (which I will admit was poolry secured) crashing into the radiator, thus wrecking the radiator and sending my coolant onto the street. I will be obviously be getting boned by her insurance because the car, which was modified with painted big bumpers and other goodies is still just an 88 Golf on paper. In the meantime, I've got three gasser radiators that could replace the wrecked one. Will one of these do the trick? I ask only because I know the diesel uses a different hose than the gasser, so I imagine I would have to run the hoses gasser style.
-
i'm pretty sure the gasser rad should work... just make sure you can plug in the thermoswitch, and the coolant flanges are in relatively the same area... you might want to blow them out with water to clean whatever junk is in them too if you haven't already done it...
it's a pity about all these people who just don't pay attention to the road.
just say the car was like that when you bought it. i would... :wink:
-
I'd imagine if there was enough force to send the battery through the rad that the rear end is pretty messed up. I"ll assume there is a good chance it will be written off, at which point you have the option to buy it back for very cheap. Depending on how good the engine is I probably would.
The gasser rad is smaller but it should work just fine.
I hope you are alright
-
Gasser radiators have the top input faceing toward the engine,... alternator.
The diesel radiators have the top hose connected to the end of the rad,.. to avoid running into the alternator.
Maybe if yours is non-AC you can come off the top of a gasser rad without running into the alternator
-
If you can afford to do so and don't HAVE to settle right away, fight them tooth and nail.
Do your research! Find similar cars that sold for prices that are high. Do EBay, the Vortex, and Old Cars Price Guide (magazine), and double check NADA classic cars.
Refuse to settle if they jerk you around. You alsao may be able to buy back your car from them for the fair salvage value, which will be allot less than the settlement.
And get to a doctor and get yourself checked out NOW. Any injuries you received from the accident are the other guy's insurance company's responsibility. This is a big deal, don't blow it off! If your neck was screwed up in the accident, the costs of associated with treatment will far surpase the value of your car. You also may need a lawer, as your insureance company will kiss you off when it comes to bodily injury.
-
Ask your insurance company how much they will give you in a settlement if you keep the car. I had one car that they wrote off where they offered $150 more if they took the car than if I kept the car and took a cash settlement. The only downside is the car's title gets branded (if your state/province does this) and you have to have it rechecked for safety before you put it back on the road if it's repairable. You may come out better this way if you have lots of parts you can salvage, even if the car itself is not repairable.
-
A couple of years ago, i lost my '78TD rabbit to a Ford Taurus. The driver of the Taurus was found to be at fault.
My '78 was a summer only museum piece.
My insureance company wanted to "help" me settle. They offered me something like $1,200 for a car which I payed $1,500 for a bare clean shell. I told them thanks, but no thanks, and settled with the other guy's insurence.
I provided them with NADA values, recent EBay auction results, and an add from that magazine i cited in my earlier post.
NADA web: http://www.nadaguides.com/home.aspx?l=1&w=28&p=0&f=5000&aid=58398&iid=51329&nozip=1
They offered me $3,200, with a salvage buy back of a few hundred bucks. Needlest to say, I accepted. The entire drivline and other assorted parts now live on in my '79.
I keep an eye on Ebay, and keep copies of similar cars and values for when this happens again. I don't think I have to go into great detail of how defensively you have to drive in the presence of pickup trucks, SUVs and mini vans that have brain dead drivers that may still have a glimmer of brain wave activity that knows they are bigger than you.
Moral of the story, your insurance company is not your freind. They are primarily interested in CYA. Do your research and don't let them take advantage of you,
And i can't over emphasize the importance of verifying your medical condition. Your first impression is" I'm ok, I'll get better". I have injuries that I will carry to my grave, and still have to do mobility and streaching exercises so I can function. Also, I am still duking it out with the other guy's auto insurance to cover my medical expenses.