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General Information => General => Topic started by: nogama3 on March 07, 2007, 03:51:11 am
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Guys, I am sorry if this has been asked before, but I would like to know which oil is best for my MK3 TD as I am due to have my water pump, cambelt, oil filter, oil, antifreeze changed this wekend. Any recommendations?
Thanks
p.s. I am based in the Uk if thatmakes any difference!
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i use mobil 1 synthetic turbo diesel truck oil 5w40
No colmplaints!!
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I just switched from Rotella T (10w40 winter and 15w40 in summer) to Rotella 5w40 Full Synthetic. I know it is not 100% synthetic but it is pretty descent stuff for the price, about $16 at Walmart. I notice a little difference in starting the engine at 10F when I switch, not as much as I had hoped. I know many guys use it.
I am going to be running Redline MTL in my transmission once it is shipped to me and I have time to change. No one around here carries it. I hear is it pretty good stuff and I do a lot of city driving. I currently have to let up on the clutch a little to get the gears lined up to go into first. I am hoping a better gear lube will solve that so my wife can drive it more easily.
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guys, i have never heard of the rotella stuff (not sure if its available over here) and not too keen on using mobil 1 truck oil!
keep on posting though !
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the mobil works good in my caddy
http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_Turbo_Diesel_Truck_5W-40.aspx
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amsiol sythetic is awsome. no compliants here. the only thing is if you use oil now you'll use more with synthetic.
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rotella t full synthetic 5 w 40
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Liqui-Moly,
Its made in Germany, it carries the VW specifications, along with specifications for BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, Audi etc etc. I started using the High Performance Touring, which is dino oil but immediately noticed a huge drop in consumption and an increase in oil pressure.
I used Rotella before, and after I switch to Liqui-Moly, I will never go back, there is no comparison to it.
Besides doesn't it make sense to run German oil in a German engine?
Peter
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Rotella is made by Shell, so you should be able to get
it in the U.K.
It's good stuff.
German oil in German cars, eh? Yeah. Makes sense.
But what about a Skoda? What kind of oil should those
poor buggers use? Polish oil? (or is it Checkoslovakian?) :)
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Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40 Synthetic (http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENCVLMOMobil_Delvac_1_5W-40.asp)
Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 Synthetic (http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_Turbo_Diesel_Truck_5W-40.asp)
They are the same oil in different packages. The Mobil 1 is Delvac 1 in a 5 Quart Retail Jug, more often than not it's sold at Walmart for ~$20.00.
Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 (http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=rotella-en&FC2=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/product_rotellasynth.html)
Can't really go wrong with either in a diesel, I mostly use Rotella T as it is what's available locally.
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Synta Silver either from VW, ECP or GSF and a genuine or Mann and Hummel filter
Just don't use Castrol as it doesn't contain zinc disulphide
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Use the cheapest oil you can possibly find; it will not be synthetic. No complaints here with a mk3 TD and I drive it like it's stolen every day hahaa proving that synthetic oil doesn't do noticable shyte for anything.
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Use the cheapest oil you can possibly find; it will not be synthetic. No complaints here with a mk3 TD and I drive it like it's stolen every day hahaa proving that synthetic oil doesn't do noticable shyte for anything.
did you rebuild your engine??? does it burn oil? compression??? tell us how its running in a few years... hehe! thats when problems should arise. but yes, if you use cheapie oil and do frequent oil changes you SHOULD have no problems... I like synthetic oils because of low temp flow rates, and being resistant high temp breakdown. The detergents in synthetic oil are also pretty nice :)
TBN numbers are key to keeping oil from being acidic. acidic oil is bad... it will eat hoses and your motor. synthetics have a high TBN number so that you can extend your oil drain interval. I like it because I don't put 5000km on my car every 3 months.
cheapie oils have no additive packages... synthetics do. royal purple for example, has a nice additive package that helps it stick to metal parts, lowering the wear everytime you start your engine.
IMO you spend about the same on synthetic if you extend your drain intervals...
Soon I will be running the FS-2500 filter, and running oil changes MAYBE every year... we'll see :)
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just had my water pump changed and the vw techie advised me to change my oil filter to a genuine one as it has a return valve thing. i got some castrol magnatec for £12 (approx $6) from Asda (Walmart) and have used that. car isnt drinking any oil or anything. gonna visit the derv doctor in derby as my boost is a litle low, running at 0.6 bar insted of 1.2 bar.
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just had my water pump changed and the vw techie advised me to change my oil filter to a genuine one as it has a return valve thing. i got some castrol magnatec for £12 (approx $6) from Asda (Walmart) and have used that. car isnt drinking any oil or anything. gonna visit the derv doctor in derby as my boost is a litle low, running at 0.6 bar insted of 1.2 bar.
I wouldn't run my lawnmower on that stuff as Castrol do not add Zinc Disulphide which prevents high pressure wear, Synta is full of seal improvers due to the VW valve stem seal issue. It'll swell up your oil seals a bit, so no leaks. Never felt the need to run fully synthetic on an old VW engine - they've been running up 300k without an issue on dino/semi oil, so why change?
Castrol infer that Magnatec is a semi-synth. It contains no synthetic oil at all - check their hazard sheets, where they describe it as "highly refined mineral oil". That's why they were taken to court. They've also been in court for making bull**** claims about their Syntec fuel additives, and lost.
Just because a company spends a fortune on (false or misleading) advertising doesn't mean it makes a great oil.
The Uni of Technology in QLD performed an independant International Standards Falex test on a wide range of oils including Mobil 1, Valvoline and Castrol oils. They also did the same tests on oil additives put in to oils. The test measured the point at which the oil loses friction and fails to lubricate the moving metal parts. In the end Mobil 1 which was one of the top performers failed at *2250lbs of force. Actually it is interesting to note that Mobil 1 and a Wynns oil additive actually did worse at a reading of *2000lbs of force. The worst performers was Castrol Magnatec which failed at *750lbs of force.
* figures taken from an article in the magazine "The Jaguar" edition 107.
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thanks for the info, bit worrying that really. mmm do i now change the oil again??? going to a show at the weekend and i'll see if i can pick up some cheap synta stuff.
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Don't bother changing it until it smells like really burnt toast. It will survive just fine.
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Use the cheapest oil you can possibly find; it will not be synthetic. No complaints here with a mk3 TD and I drive it like it's stolen every day hahaa proving that synthetic oil doesn't do noticable shyte for anything.
Hmm, apparently you don't monitor oil temp, or do samples with TBN's, or the benefits would be apparent to you.
Also, the cheapest oil will likely have a low rating or won't even be rated for compression ignition motors (take heed).
Back to the topic, I'd stick with a full syn 5w-40 like Pentosin 5w-40 full syn or an other oil that meets vw 505.00. Minimally any C rated oil should be ok.
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Ok fine I meant cheapest oil that says diesel on the container somewhere.
and, NO I don't moniter oil temp or do oil samples or none of that; sure the benifits are obvious when you look at a piece of paper... but my engine still works just fine and when/if it blows up or starts to smoke, I sure as hell will not blame it on oil... unless it runs out of oil completely.
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Ok fine I meant cheapest oil that says diesel on the container somewhere.
and, NO I don't moniter oil temp or do oil samples or none of that; sure the benifits are obvious when you look at a piece of paper... but my engine still works just fine and when/if it blows up or starts to smoke, I sure as hell will not blame it on oil... unless it runs out of oil completely.
you should consider getting a bypass filter like FS-2500...
i must say that on a diesel, the oil does get pretty black... so frequent changes would be a good idea... and what better oil to use than cheapie stuff?? :wink: