VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => TDI Engine -General Info => Topic started by: blakgolf on February 28, 2007, 09:23:27 pm
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i can get some nice aftermarket rods for the car. do u guys think its worth it while im rebuilding it or not. im only getting a gt20 for now with race520. what do u guys think. i would wanna get the 2.0 done next summer. and i was having a group buy on the rods before i started to rethink it.
i would like the opinion of the people on here. since it looks like people have done sicker thinks then on tdiclub
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anyone?
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Well...whats the cost of the custom rods? How are they constructed? That kind of stuff is good stuff...
Also, stock internals on TDI's are rated pretty well unless you are planning on breaking that 200hp area. Where bad things have happened in TDI's beyond timing belt failures, etc. have been a "few" bent rods I've seen/read about in a few places but not alot of "rod" failures persay. Whether its worth it or not depends on your power and torque goals that you'd like to see. I'd love to have custom parts, etc. but the diesel bottom ends are built really robust, and unless it was really cost efficient, etc. I don't know. :) My .02 i'm sure there is other opinions. Def. if $$$ wasn't an issue, and they'd do the job making things that much more bulletproof, then I'd be all over it !
Joe
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thing is that we are 4 so far to want a set. so the price is cut by alot. about 600$ if not less for the 4 rods. the are from pauter
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Wow... nice, now if only I had the $$$$ or believed in CC's...
Grad school, wedding this July among other things will keep me from this one. Maybe you'll find your few others though.
Pauter rate the rods for you....what they will ultimately handle, etc?
Joe
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ask it as a wedding gift LOOOOOOOOL
i would. jk
im aiming 220-230
getting a gt20, r520, 11mm pump and fmic with euro intake mani from a passat with the inlet on the other side.
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did pauter say what power levels the rods would support?
Hmm...wedding present....that probably wouldn't fly.
Joe
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no i didnt even ask. many guys are running them on gassers for over 600hp, i dont think ill bend one LOL
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I was interested in tq specs for them if they can give them to you :) Could be interested, but like i said, finding the $$$ is the difficult part at this point. I imagine you'll need to pay up front as well. Maybe some more will jump on!
Joe
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yah i need the money upfront cuz im ganna put it all in my credit card :s. im ganna have to boost the limit on my credit card. they have been very helpfull i was really surprised to be quite honest. i could find out if ur really interested. but we have other things to worry about i think. i read tdi rs post that he had clearance issues with his custom aftermarket rods. i dont understand why. the problem is i never took off a tdi oil pan so i dont know what it looks like. does anyone have pics of the oil pan off giving a view of the internals. cuz im ganna have to give pauter as much info as possible
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I'm using the PD (100hp) rods on my AAZ soon to be 200whp I believe thats pushing thier limits.There is an ALH on TDIclub making 209whp so if ALH rods can handle 200whp then why bother upgraging?Then again holding 209whp on the dyno for a second will not be the same stress as running that engine flat out on the 1/4 mile,I'd like to see his rods after that and headgasket.Will you be using 200whp for the dyno only or for the 1/4 mile also??
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I see...and yes, I'd be interested in knowing the specfications and their tq ratings on the rods. Gas vs. diesel when it comes to hp is very different IMHO and the tq support would be what I'd focus on more when it comes to whether the rods are worth it or not.
As already mentioned in the previous post here. Its possibly to use PD rods with some considerations, resizing, etc. and they will support the power. Also...stock ALH rods (1z, AHU, ALH) from my recollection and research are the same. When I built my mTDI motor last fall/winter/spring I had two sets of rods...actually three if you really want to get there. 1z units and the ALH units I had on hand were the same with no dicernable differences in that. I've talked to simon as well in the past and the only issue he had with the original VE pump motor that he did was one bent rod after some serious induction with methanol I believe. Would have to dig out the email as that was a while ago. Believe he is onto PD's now. Anyways... the concensus seems to be though that ALH rods/TDI rods in general will support that 200hp or so.
As for clearancing the block for custom rods, etc. It very could require that which is why I was inquiring about more info on the Pauter rods themselves. What sort of design are they going with? Like an "H" beam, or something else? Since they tend to be wider, machining the block could be in the possibilites there. Guess thats why that kind of information would be handy, etc. They should be able to provide dimensions, tolerances, power ratings, etc. specifically to the diesel engine...especially when you throw down that kind of money for a piece of equipment and diesel mechanics/design and theory (especially when considering the rigors of compression ignition to those of spark ignition which is very different and hence why diesels are built that much more robust and cost more). Just my opinion, but if they were that much better, significantly better vs. stock then it'd be a good deal. Stuff I'd want to know anyways! Def. understand the cash up front though and all that good stuff (I did a group buy one time on some 'rado stuff....that was fun).
Anyways...
Joe
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they design the rods when i send them a oem rods. they do it like that. its ganna be exactly what we ask for. if only we could send them a block and tell them to make it that way
it would be the perfect solution!!!!
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I'm using the PD (100hp) rods on my AAZ soon to be 200whp I believe thats pushing thier limits.There is an ALH on TDIclub making 209whp so if ALH rods can handle 200whp then why bother upgraging?Then again holding 209whp on the dyno for a second will not be the same stress as running that engine flat out on the 1/4 mile,I'd like to see his rods after that and headgasket.Will you be using 200whp for the dyno only or for the 1/4 mile also??
I think I know who's 209whp TDI you're talking about because I chipped that car. The dyno has a 17% correction so in reality his whp is closer to 175, not 209. He has PP502 injectors and stock SMIC. No smoke at 175whp. It's only considered a baseline and he'll have more power to come. He's waiting for Bosio race injector nozzles and I also recommended that he get a FMIC. He's thinking of a cam upgrade as well (maybe). All these should help him break the 200whp mark with efficiency. I can't recall fully but I think his downpipe is smaller than 2.5" as well. The race injectors are still out of stock for a long time so I don't know if he'll have a set of these installed by the time he starts racing the 1/4 in April or so. He also wants to run 30 PSI boost, which I think is a little too high with stock compression and all (it's also a bit out of his VNT-20's efficiency range).. but he's willing to experiment so.. It'll be interesting to see if his headgasket or rods hold up in the 1/4.
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why not just shot pean and balance your tdi rods. Shot peaning makes the rod much stronger.
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cuz a real shot pining job is about 300$ for a bit more ill get the pauter rods that are already shotpined.
the deal we are getting on this is really good, its the only group buy thats ever ganna happen. and when people start bending rods the only person that will be selling them will be kerma. i dont think he will be selling them this cheap.
pauter doesnt make hbeams btw. just go and check out the website
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Specifications
E4340 vacuum melt chrome moly forging – CNC machined
Heat-treated to Rockwell C36; full coverage shotpeened; end-to-end balanced in sets.
Pauter 220k psi tensile strength MSP220 steel, J-formed, rolled thread racing rod bolts (standard.)
Aluminum-bronze wrist pin bushings (standard.) EDM pressure-fed oiling to pin (available at extra cost.)
Custom pin diameters and center-to-center rod lengths can be ordered at no additional cost. High-performance bearings, tool steel wrist pins and forged aluminum pistons can be ordered specifically coordinated to your rod order (please inquire.)
The following list is a sampling of popular rods for all crank driven engines. It is by no means a complete listing. Keep in mind that we are geared for the production of custom sizes in nearly all engine series.
Years of hands-on experience, working with rods of all shapes and materials, of all types of racing and racing-related abuse, with design failures (and successes), has resulted in a fairly comprehensive file on just what works - and what doesn't - on the subject of high performance connecting rods. From this body of knowledge we have selected and incorporated the elements into what it is we think a great rod should be. Right off, our rod looks different, that's obvious, but for some not so obvious and very good reasons.
For starters, the simple beam design completely eliminates thin and non-uniform cross sections over the total length of the beam. This feature greatly improves resistance to crack-induced metal fatigue. In addition, the non-tapered profile of the beam helps to spread potentially harmful stress over a larger area, dispersing instead of concentrating these destructive loads. The design also efficiently places needed material in critical transitional areas, giving maximum support exactly where it is needed (such as directly under the wrist pin). The streamlined contour also provides subtle benefits in the form of windage reduction and breather/catch can function (so our customers tell us). The main beam rib itself continues around the wrist pin boss, perfectly integrating the beam to the pin boss, a small, but important contribution to overall structural unity. Pauter rods are indeed, different by design.
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Proper shot peening does not need to cost more than $10 a rod. Whoever told you $300 is smoking something funny.
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See my post over here: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=1642132#post1642132 :wink:
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i agree that aftermarket rods are probably much stronger. But if you only shooting for power just above the max hp level of the rod why not just shot pein if its so cheap.
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shot peening is my intention here after this season. Wanted to take the head off next winter to see how the ceramic coating is doing, etc. and thought I'd shot peen the rods at the same time. Just don't know whether the cost is worth the payoff in aftermarket rods...unless they are that much stronger.
Man... where are you finding shotpeening for 10.00 a rod! I'll send mine that way! Best prices I found around here was about 40 a rod I believe...
Joe