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General Information => Troubleshooting => Topic started by: zukgod1 on January 13, 2007, 06:27:31 pm
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Hey all,
I just picked up a really nice 90 Jetta GL NA Diesel.
202k miles
It's been sitting for about 2 years and the guy didnt know what was wrong (wife was driving when it died).
Anyway, I brought it home and hooked up a batt to see what was going to happen if anything and "click click click".
So I removed the timing cover to make sure the belt was there and it was so I grabed a socket and stuck it on the crank and I couldnt budge it with a 20" braker bar... sad moment is all I can say.
I removed the timing belt and the cam turns over just fine as does the IP.
Oh ya, the coolant tank was low so i proceded to dump in some anitfreeze and it started running out the water pump, another sad moment.
SO, I was hoping you all could point me in the right direction with this.
I have really good mech skills and I have no problem tearing it down I just dont want to.
I was thinking about removing the injectors (have them checked while out) and dumping something in there to aid it breaking it loose, depending on where it's froze up at. I'm actually hoping its just bearings but again need some input.
Thanks
dan
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What does the oil look like?
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its from my experience that women never check fluids, and some of them drive cars really really really hard/rough. do like burn said, find out the state of that oil! :evil:
the poor motor was probably oil starved, and overheated! if you have one of those stethoscopes that allow you to view the inside of the cylinder without removing the head, that would be really neat... then you could examine the cyl walls to find scoring/etc. who knows if you find huge gouges in the walls, or that they're actually half decent... and just bearings like you said :)
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It has oil in it, that was the first thing I checked.
I was a bit low, bottom of the "safe" area but it was there just the same and not clean like they add it after it died.
I think I'll re install the timing belt (if I can find the marks) and drag it around the block pop the clutch to see if I can get it to brake free. If it does than I can tear into it with the parts moving around rather that dealing with stuck parts after the tear down.
dan
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sounds kinda risky to me... depending on what is restricting the engine from turning. if you plan on rebuilding the motor that would seem like the route to take, but otherwise your best bet is to find another motor.
you may want to drop the pan and see how tight everything is, and maybe even notice gouges in the bores... and if nothing looks too bad take it for a rip and get things moving again :)
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Get the timing right on before turning the engine over or risk valves interferring with the pistons and subsequent damage. Did you try to turn the engine over with the clutch disengaged? Transmission problem? Is the starter gear jammed to the ring gear on the flywheel? I doubt that that the motor is seized if it had oil in it. My son drove a Jetta IDI from Alberta a year ago and when he changed the oil about a litre and a half came out in the drain pan. Did he check the oil on his trip?? What do you think! Point is that the engine was fine even after such abuse because it still had oil. I would suspect a minor item before a major one. Do not try the "drag it and drop the clutch" routine as you will likely cause more damage.
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5th gear will turn the engine the easiest from a roll.
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I'd recommend not dragging the car around. It's possible you could snap the timing belt.
I'd remove the starter and press the clutch in and then see if you can turn it over
If that doesn't work I'd put the starter back in and remove the injectors. I'd try and crank it over then. If that didn't work I'd put some oil in the cylinders and let it sit for a few hours then try again
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Looks like there has been a couple more posts so I thought I would reply.
I've removed the injectors and dumped in some kerosene/ trans fluid mix and it's been in there for a few days now.
Broke a 1/2 to 3/8 impact adaptor trying to move it last night.
As far as snapping the timing belt goes, I'll have to ask how that would be possible?
The crank turns the timing belt and all other components are free spinning so if I'm in say 5th gear going 10mph and drop the clutch there are two or three things that could happen that I can see.
The front tires lock up or the clutch slips or the engine turns over .
To others that have responded, the batt was fully charged and the clutch was depressed. The starter was removed and works fine.
Now for the timing belt, I'm going to have to remove the head and here’s why.
I cant turn the engine over to align the timing marks to make sure all is good. SO... I'll remove the head and see what I can see and report back. It wont be untill this weekend more than likely.
Keep the suggestions coming.
dan
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I missed the part about the crank being what was locked up, you'll be fine to drag it around.
There is a slim chance the tranny have exploded and is locked up and the clutch pedal is not actually releasing the clutch. But that would be highly unlikely and I think you would have noticed the clutch not working.
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It is possible for the pistons to seize in the bores if it has sat long enough. Maybe the head gasket failed when it overheated allowing coolant into the cylinders. This could promote rust. I would pull the injectors out of the heads and put a penetrating oil or diesel oil in the cylinders. Let it sit for a few hours or days if you are not too impatient. Then carefully work the crank back and forth with a breaker bar and socket. Of course, if it turns over you will eventually have to pull the head to replace the gasket and maybe hone the bores and new rings. I have had good luck unfreezing motorcycle engines that have been sitting for long periods of time by doing this. DO NOT try towing and dropping the clutch. Something might break.
If it does free up, remember to check the timing before attemptiing to start and run the motor. Just a precaution in case the timing is off.
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It is possible for the pistons to seize in the bores if it has sat long enough. Maybe the head gasket failed when it overheated allowing coolant into the cylinders. This could promote rust. I would pull the injectors out of the heads and put a penetrating oil or diesel oil in the cylinders. Let it sit for a few hours or days if you are not too impatient. Then carefully work the crank back and forth with a breaker bar and socket. Of course, if it turns over you will eventually have to pull the head to replace the gasket and maybe hone the bores and new rings. I have had good luck unfreezing motorcycle engines that have been sitting for long periods of time by doing this. DO NOT try towing and dropping the clutch. Something might break.
If it does free up, remember to check the timing before attemptiing to start and run the motor. Just a precaution in case the timing is off.
You must have mised this
"I've removed the injectors and dumped in some kerosene/ trans fluid mix and it's been in there for a few days now. "
Anyway, the crank is TIGHT! as in it doesnt move even a little.
I found another longblock yesterday so I'm just going to refresh that one and toss the locked up one.
Thanks.
dan
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Before you toss it will you pull the head and try beating on the pistons or something to try and find out what was locked up?
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Before you toss it will you pull the head and try beating on the pistons or something to try and find out what was locked up?
Oh heck ya, I'll be tearing into it to see what happened.
dan
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nice
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So I discovered why it was not turning over.
Started by removing the head but there is a bracket on the front behind the IP that needed to be removed so the IP came off.
As soon as the IP was off I could see the problem.
It seems there is a crank inspection hole, I.E. non factory installed hole in the front of the block.
It apparently also has some non factory installed quick release rods as one of them is sticking out the inspection hole
On the good side, the head appears to have been rebuilt recently. Clean clean.
So the search for a hydro 1.6 block ensues.
dan
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Why do you think the hole with the rod was there? Seems very odd.
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Perhaps the same crank inspection hole with the quick release rods as this guy ?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4g7_bHlQhd8
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Why do you think the hole with the rod was there? Seems very odd.
my first guess would be poor reassembly.
the inside of this engine looks brand new, like it was just refreshed.
The #1 rod let go.
I'm preaty much going to have to replace the entire bottom end.
Crank
Balance shaft
Balance shaft pully
rods/ pistons
dan
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Perhaps the same crank inspection hole with the quick release rods as this guy ?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4g7_bHlQhd8
Ya, I've seen that vid.
Only problem is the VW isnt supose to hve that hole eh?
:x
dan
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In my air-cooled days I drove a Beetle with an impromptu crank inspection hole for a couple hundred km... you could actually watch the piston go up and down and everything. Finally just for laughs I drove it to my favorite VW shop and asked if they had any Crazy Glue... when he asked why I took him outside and started her up... "it started making a funny noise a week ago".
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Did the rod let go at the big end? I have seen a patch welded on the crankcase below the water jacket on such an event, mind you not on a VW but an ancient Brit machine and it worked too.
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Well I've not got it tore down far enough yet to see how bad it really is so I'll have to report on that later.
You are correct however, repairing blocks really isnt that hard.
Lock-N-Stitch lock comes to mind. Good stuff right there.
http://www.locknstitch.com/
dan