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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: jtanguay on January 12, 2007, 11:15:01 am
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Wow this thing weighs a lot!!! the top portion is solid aluminum. there are two ports for each in/out, making it easier to install, but will need to be plugged once i decide on what goes where.
the filter looks/feels like some sort of mesh fiber. would be neat to tear it apart as an experiment, but i want to test it out on my car first 8)
simply can't wait to install it!!! at $23 for a new filter & gasket, its much cheaper than buying premium oil that my car deserves... (but i am the one deserving of it, since it will last a lot longer...)
I have a question though... is there any way i can go about not dropping the pan and installing a bung to attach the return hose to??? is splicing into the turbo return line (getting a tee fitting) a bad idea???
thanks
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Can you do me a favor? Once you install the filter, each day can you record your mileage and put 1 drop of oil on a white sheet of paper. I want to see how many kms it takes for the oil to get clean.
How often do you need to change the FS filter?
You've decided against tapping the VC?
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Can you do me a favor? Once you install the filter, each day can you record your mileage and put 1 drop of oil on a white sheet of paper. I want to see how many kms it takes for the oil to get clean.
- it takes approximately 15 minutes to filter all the oil. (on big trucks) so i'm guessing it would take about 10 minutes. maybe 2-5 km's should do it.
i have just changed my oil so what i can do is take a sample of before (the oil is still actually clean... sorta... even after driving it a few times) and i will take samples of afterwards :)
How often do you need to change the FS filter?
- i think on the site it said somewhere around every 10'000km. with a dinky little diesel 20'000km shouldn't be a bad estimate at all... and the main filter should be changed at around 60-100'000km
You've decided against tapping the VC?
- well i haven't quite decided against tapping the vc as of yet... as it would probably be the easiest solution (who likes dropping the oil pan??? gotta drain the oil... etc) but i was just wondering if there were reasons not to go this route.[/i]
at $300 cdn (plus 20 bucks because customs.....) i think the bypass filter will have payed for itself in less than 3 years. and the benefit of less wear and tear is an added bonus. thats also assuming that i use very high grade oil in my car too...
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Where will you fit it?? The stinker is huge! What, 11 inches tall?
I'd love to see some pics.
Coming from the Ford Powerstroke community, I 100% stand by the FS2500. It beats out even the Amsoil bypass.
Though, for fun, check this out. They've been around for 60+ years and apparently it works great if you install it right- http://autorepair.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?site=http://www.wefilterit.com/frantz.htm
The filter element? 2-ply 500 sheet rolls of good ole' Toilet Paper. Commercial-style non-septic best in all likelyhood...
If you shell out for the price of some Schaeffer's oil, Supreme 7000 being what we use, then you'll be able to keep the same oil for 15,000 miles with a bypass. Mobil1 claims 15k, but their detergent pack breaks down kinda fast. Schaeffer's is a company that tailors to big-rig OTR's, so they know what they are doing when it comes to diesel. Not to mention the Moly additive. For the security it offers the engine, I'd say its a good price for the drain period.
What full-flow filter do you use?
For a great discussion of filters and some good info- http://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2474&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Yeah, its a Tercel site. But most of the people there are pretty knowledgable about all this.
If you would do us the honor, I think it'd be great to get your 2 cents on the FS2500, if you are willing, once you've used it for a while.
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once i get this thing installed i will definitely post my results!
i'm actually considering moving the battery to the back of my car (and also rigging up a marine battery with an isolator and a battery boost toggle switch for those really cold mornings...) this would allow me to put the bypass filter in a good area where i can easily change it :)
problem is that the aluminum top piece stays mounted to the body, and the lower portion is removed to change the filter etc. oil spills anyone?? :lol:
for the oil filter i'll only use the genuine bosch filter... i'm currently looking for a remote oil filter kit though.. i hate how the filter is on an angle.. just spills all over the place when trying to change it!
and for oil.. i think i may use amsoil, but not too sure yet. i basically want to put the bypass filter on... and forget it.. but i will definitely send samples to find out how good the oil is and if the TBN number drops. another good thing about the filter is that it holds a certain percentage of water, which will help reduce the likelyhood of acid formation :)
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So what is the difference between these bypass filters and the ones that used to come on cars and trucks in the 50s and 60s? They fit TP size filters, but I never took anyone seriously on the suggestion that TP be used as a filter?
AIR, those old filters were called bypass filters because they filtered when there was extra oil pressure bypassing the main oil gallery. They went out of fashion in early 60s in favour of spin on 'full flow' filters that were easier to change and filtered all the oil all the time.
I have some of those olds filter housings in a shed from my old '52 chev pickup....think they are worth $200? :wink:
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the older ones are probably not worth $200. the fs2500 system is really heavy duty. i would never put TP or anything like it inside the filter. the filters come with rubber gaskets to seal better inside the housing. maybe i'll take some pics later.
having both full flow and bypass is a great idea. that basically makes the full flow filter a safety filter, ensuring that metal shavings and big particles are kept out of the engine. the bypass filter just goes further by keeping the smaller damaging particles to a minimum, but not completely eliminating them. (if it was full flow, then it would completely eliminate them)
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Things like the TP filter work off of a sheer volume of filter media. It passes the oil from the top of the roll to the bottom. Over 4 inches of solid filtration. Its sound and easy, simply because it has so bloody much media. And just like a bypass of today, they only filter a small portion of the oil at a time. You can't really pass much through toilet paper at a time.
I can't imagine any septic-safe TP would be good as its designed to break down. I've been told by a few people who use it (I asked around after they mentioned it at the other forum) that "John Wayne" TP works best. By that they meant the no-comfort, rough but tough commercial stuff. Go to 99% of public restrooms. Thats the stuff. The added advantage of it is that its not poofed or fluffed, like, for instance, Charmin. More density of the filtering media.
I'd really recommend Schaeffer's Oil. They are a hair above Amsoil in quality and they beat them on price in some cases. Its harder to get ahold of their stuff, but its well worth it. I use Supreme 7000 in my cars, diesel and gas. 7000 is a blended oil, but it still beats the crap out of every other oil I've seen it go up against. I saw a surface-film strength test conducted and even participated. It make stuff like Rotella T Full Synthetic, Mobil 1 Full Syn, Valvoline Full Syn, and even Royal Purple look pathetic. We picked up a crate of 6, 1 gallon containers for $90. $15 a gallon isn't too shabby for something I've seen test so well.
Another thing with Schaeffer's, since they do tailor to the OTR crowd, usually you can only get bulk. 6 gallons for instance. No big deal, considering you can just hang onto it until the next change, which, with it, will be a long way off.
You should check out their website. They have a huge line of lubricants, and some specialty cleaners and fuel treatments along with that. A lot of it tailors to diesel, but gas stuff can be found, and Supreme 7000 and Supreme 9000 are both compatible with both, 9000 being the full Synthetic.
I've not heard the greatest things about the Bosch filters... Definitly heard less bad about them than FRAM, no question there. Best I've heard of, and use, is the Purolater PureONE line. Best full-flow filters available. They are like a mini-bypass filter. They clean much smaller particles than other filters. The question with that, however, is whether they will restrict themselves from mega-filtration or not. I've never seen/heard of it happening, but thats with a 3-5000 miles filter change interval. I know my car loves the thing.
Just checked their application guide. Doesn't look like they have them for the 1.6IDI or TD. I know they don't have one for the 1Z TDI, but have yet to check the others. Though, I do know there are plenty of other filters that will fit. They just don't have near the bypass valve pressure. Here's their Purolator standard filter. http://www.pureoil.com/smartlink/?partnum=L30257
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(http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/1059/pc310002pt3.jpg)
(http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/6022/pc310001bj0.jpg)
Pretty awesome product!
Thing I like about the filter design is that it catches only the largest particles on the outside, and going inward gets tighter and tighter. this design allows the filter to have excellent flow rates and not become plugged up quickly.
some guys use these filters on transmissions and hydraulics. hydraulics i think you would benefit the most because of moisture removal.
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Is the top piece much different then a normal oil filter mount? How does it restrict the oil flow?
Typrus do you have the link to Schaeffer's Oil's website?
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there is no restrictor! I believe the only restriction in the bypass system would be the actual filter itself. I may install an extra oil pressure gauge to monitor pressure drops etc... i can only imagine the bypass filter 'stealing' 5 psi of oil pressure... definitely more in the upper rpm ranges though
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So basically I could buy the bowl and have my friend make me the top part for a fraction of the cost.
I find it very strange that there is no restrictor though
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This might be of interest to you
http://www.gulfcoastfilters.com/INSTRUCTIONS_FOR_O-2.pdf
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http://www.schaefferoil.com/
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So basically I could buy the bowl and have my friend make me the top part for a fraction of the cost.
I find it very strange that there is no restrictor though
hmmm it only makes sense that there should be a pressure regulator to keep the motor safe from oil pressure starvation... i will check some things out and get back. perhaps there is a restrictor built into one of the lines... hmmm
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You have an oil pressure gauge right? You want to make sure your pressure doesn't fall too far
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You have an oil pressure gauge right? You want to make sure your pressure doesn't fall too far
yea i bought a sunpro gauge from princess auto.. i believe it was something like $5... i may just buy two. one for the pressure from the filter and one from the head. or should i put the second one at the actual bypass filter oil exit to measure how much pressure is running through it???
i also had the idea of restricting flow by adding a smaller diameter line before the bypass filter... that should add some safety, but i still need to get a hold of the company and see what they say.
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I'm pretty sure that the single small entry hole is the restrictor. Full-flow filters have a large number of holes, whereas it looks like the mount for the FS2500 has a single smallish hole.
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I'm pretty sure that the single small entry hole is the restrictor. Full-flow filters have a large number of holes, whereas it looks like the mount for the FS2500 has a single smallish hole.
the entry/exit hole looks similar to 3/8" which is pretty free-flowing.. but definitely not as free flowing as a full flow filter..
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Your filter is designed for a 6.2l engine or something like that right? Under 250 HP? If its like the others I've read about it filters 2 quarts per minute. That'll be like 1/6 of your oil every minute. Since our engines are so small I think you should restrict it down to 1/8 hole to get the same relative flow rate.
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Maybe. You should try to contact them for their thoughts though.
I've been thinking about one of these for my Terc and for my moms TDI (If I could somehow find room!) and if there could be some procedure found to prevent any issues, that'd be fantastic.
I'm sure if they get enough small-engine buyers they'll come up with a smaller design. Until then, improvisation!
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well thats another reason that i was drawn to the fs 2500 filter. it would probably last around 50'000km or more due to the fact it was designed for huge engines. I wouldn't even stop there actually... i might get a bunch of pressure gauges and install them on the filter to monitor pressures to see if/when the fs 2500 gets plugged up.
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Yea prevent anything from going bad......
I'm going to buy this FS2500 Filter and run full 0W40 Full Synthetic Rotella T motor Oil, this is a really sick filter, I believe I can run the filter if I relocated the Battery. I need to do more research on this, but I will post pics of new developments as the winter starts to disappear......
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well thats another reason that i was drawn to the fs 2500 filter. it would probably last around 50'000km or more due to the fact it was designed for huge engines. I wouldn't even stop there actually... i might get a bunch of pressure gauges and install them on the filter to monitor pressures to see if/when the fs 2500 gets plugged up.
You will be able to tell when it gets to the point of no more filtering by just feeling it. It will be cold because of no oil circulating through it.
I had a friend that kept his bypass filter on until it did that. It took a little over a year on his cummins.
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well thats another reason that i was drawn to the fs 2500 filter. it would probably last around 50'000km or more due to the fact it was designed for huge engines. I wouldn't even stop there actually... i might get a bunch of pressure gauges and install them on the filter to monitor pressures to see if/when the fs 2500 gets plugged up.
You will be able to tell when it gets to the point of no more filtering by just feeling it. It will be cold because of no oil circulating through it.
I had a friend that kept his bypass filter on until it did that. It took a little over a year on his cummins.
Good to hear that it took a little over a year on a cummins! I'm going to be running amsoil diesel grade oil in my car with the FS2500. after hearing trucks using it and achieving 400'000 miles under the same oil... but at the same time you must factor in that the oil in the filter housing must be changed as well... so eventually the oil does get changed... but way less expensive :)
oh and still no word from filtration solutions!!! the wait continues...
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still waiting?
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hehe yes... need some good warm(er) weather... i'll probably end up ripping the oil pan off one of my parts cars and weld on a bung, then sand and paint it :)
that and i have to move the battery to the back... fun fun fun ;) i still can't wait to install the filter...!!!
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what happened with the flow rate etc?
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what happened with the flow rate etc?
i'm just going to downsize the in port... it should work fine :)
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well as i've been waiting for my TDI rebuild to complete, i've stumbled across a very ingenious idea for the oil return to the pan.
https://www.amsoil.com/bypassfilters/vw_beetle_1998/index.aspx
for the 1.9TDI the oil drain plug was hollowed out to receive the oil return from the bypass filter. very neat!!! i may just try that route for the time being on my 1.6 as the TDI seems to be taking forever :(
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is there anything made thats not 11" long and 5" in diameter? a bypass filter kit for smaller non mack truck engines?
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the amsoil bypass filters aren't as huge as the fs-2500 filters, and supposedly work just as good (the new ones, not the older ones...)
I will relocate my battery to the trunk if i need to. clean oil is worth it.