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General Information => Troubleshooting => Topic started by: somolovitch3 on January 01, 2007, 06:28:53 pm
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'81 Caddy with 168428 miles showing
NOT even close to 35% need for to pass
Ideas?
Help?!
***zofelepantness!!!!!!!!!
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retard the engine and get it REAL hot for the test (30 mins highway driving)... also back out the fuel screw to decrease the idle rpm... try to get it bang on 800rpm. it should pass no problem. it should idle really rough, but who cares? turn it back up when you're done. :D
hmmm thinking about this again... i know that retarding a gasser engine will give lower nox emissions... but as for diesel opacity would it be better to have advanced timing or retarded? I would think that advanced would give additional time to burn the fuel... anyone else have any input???
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Bloody holidazes!
Am having comp/timing/injectors tested come Wed the 3rd
Was thinking advance timing a few .mm (well, more than a few?)
Thing goes through oil at 50mpq
Rebuild time?
Anyone have mo-mo to be rebuilt/throw in while rebuild goes on?
rino***z!!!!
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Back the fuel screw out,and lean it out as much as possible.You should be able to clear it right up.
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Reroute the blowby away form the intake? :twisted:
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anyone have any experience with using synthetic oil to reduce smoking from blow by?
I have been reading up on it and the higher flash point should reduce the amount that gets burnt......maybe?
I need to aircare my IDI this week to make it more saleable so I can start driving the 'new' TDI thats waiting in the driveway. If it fails I think I'll change the TDI oil and put the old synthetic into the IDI, see if it makes a difference. There is only a couple weeks driving on the oil according to the reciepts that came with new car.
I think rather than back out fuel I would try disconnecting LDA.
Advance or retard timing to reduce smoke? I had someone with HID headlights tailgating me tonight, providing my own emmisions analysis lab. It seemed it may have smoked less with the cold start out, but I didnt get enough time to really decide before the other driver found a chance to change lanes and get away from that smoky car that kept speeding up and slowing down :D Dont you just love how those headlights make the smoke show up?
Any other tips?
BTW: 50 MPQ oil consumption...thats way up there, it may not be possible to get that to pass.
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50 miles per quart??? wtf...
still doable.. put synthetic it, and yes it won't burn like dino oil. advance it to around 1.05 and back the fuel out... make sure it idles real rough... im tellin ya... you will think it is going to vibrate to death type idle :lol: like my old diesel jetta. and it will pass no problem. how do they test diesels over there? actually bringing it up to speed? that sucks... here is just smoke visiblity test at IDLE 8).
so disconnecting the LDA would be a really good idea then. also put in some fuel conditioner too that always helps power service makes a good one that i like.
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In BC, Greater Vancouver area, aircare is tested basically as follows: visual check for a cat, test of gas cap, test of newer cars for fault codes related to emissions, then a run on a chassis dynometer to simulate some kind of 'normal drive' including idle, stop and start and highway speed cruise. Diesels are just checked for opacity, maximum score allowed is 30%. They will do an idle only emissions test if your vehicle wont work on their dyno for some reason like too low or too much tire.
I'll try mine as is with cold start pulled, if it doesnt make it I'll try oil change to synthetic and reduced fuel. thanks for tips.
somolovitch3 is the guy with 50 MPQ oil use, mine isn that bad, but bad enough at 2l/1000km.
somolovitch3: any updates?
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emission test in belgium is at max rpm (till the feul cut jump in), so this is a big problem when you did the governermod because it will rev your engine death. they keep a couple seconds this max rpm, a sensor in the exhaust measure the smoke in the emision.
people who never drive the car in max rpm got problems to pass the emision test becouse the exhaust is full of black and it comes out when the guy for the test pull out max rpm.
Some guys put a other feul in the dieseltank (the thing you can use for warm up the house). they drive the dieseltank till its almost empty, they put 10l in the tank, go to the technical control, once passed they fill up the tank with diesel becouse if you drive to much km's with this stuff you will have a pump failure.
Greetz, Benjamin (sorry for bad english)
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(the thing you can use for warm up the house).
you mean kerosene? (AKA parafin oil in the UK?)
That full RPM pull you described.....under load on a dyno or just free revving? Sounds more like a way to remove older vehicles from the road by breaking them than a good way to test emissions!
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@LeeG: its free revving :x not on a kind of dyno or something. the gearbox is in neutral, and the pedal to the metal for a couple seconds after the feul cut jump in.
gassers are tested on idle in belgium but thats another thing.
Greetz, Benjamin
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Well, plan A didnt work. Took it to aircare without touching anything and it failed by 5%. Drove around the block, disconnected the LDA and pulled cold start and tried it again, only failed by 3%. Boohoo. Guess I'll try an oil change on w/e and see what that does.
(http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/1/300374431.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4419415)
click to view larger
I thought the LDA disconnected would get me through looking at that one spike just after accelerating to 90kph.
This car is for sale BTW. Someone buy it and save me the hassle. Then I can drive my TDI.
http://vancouver.craigslist.org/car/256807563.html
discount for existing vwdiesel board members!
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Since I live in Utah, the way it is done here is to "dyno" it at 30% and at wot under "Load".
Not to sure if running "K-Juice" would work...So far the shop has informed me that I am one tooth off :evil: on the basic timing and have not done the injector or compression tests. :twisted:
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8) BTW :twisted: lda disconnected BIG TIME!!!
1.6 N/A :oops:
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Got the compression test result today: :cry:
cyl 1: 380 psi
cyl 2: 330 psi
cyl 3: 330 psi
cyl 4: 425 psi
Any one have a short block? BTW what does a 1.6 engine weigh?
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Well, plan A didnt work. Took it to aircare without touching anything and it failed by 5%. Drove around the block, disconnected the LDA and pulled cold start and tried it again, only failed by 3%. Boohoo. Guess I'll try an oil change on w/e and see what that does.
(http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/1/300374431.jpg) (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4419415)
click to view larger
I thought the LDA disconnected would get me through looking at that one spike just after accelerating to 90kph.
This car is for sale BTW. Someone buy it and save me the hassle. Then I can drive my TDI.
http://vancouver.craigslist.org/car/256807563.html
discount for existing vwdiesel board members!
Back out the fuel screw,it will drop bigtime.
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I'm having a similar problem, I failed the opacity test here in CT, but I think it's lower than 35%. I put together an in-tank science experiment of biodiesel and kerosene, based on another post that recommended kero for emissions and my own experience with bio giving less smoke. I also backed off the fuel screw a bit (not the one on top, but the one on the back of the IP) Anyway, it was much worse, like 70% opacity! Since then (last month) I've been running different blends of fuel, now at b10 or so, and it still smokes a foul cloud. Oh yeah, I'm in the high oil consumption crowd as well, about a quart every 100 miles, but much better on a fresh oil change. This was all after a vw diesel shop reset the timing for me. I'm looking at doing a quickie rering, although I'm not sure what the head is looking like.
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pretty much as mentioned before... you NEED to back out your fuel screw!!! do it until your car idles like CRAP lol... it will be shaking to death.. but at least you will pass!!!
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Hope to get the truck back, well today, Haven't heard from shop about injectors yet. Might delay things a bit.-------like Bentlys ordered on Dec 8th that won't ship untill Feb 7th! Sorry about that last part :oops:
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Maybe get truck back Tues. With rebuilt injectors/pump-timing set 1.02.
Cheaper to get block and set it up w/ new pistons or open up this engine and re-ring ?/ rebuid ?/ .......?
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cheapest quick fix would be just to re-ring the motor. best long lasting (very long lasting actually) fix is to bore/hone & new pistons & rings. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ though.... pistons alone are $320 from myke_w on this forum. which is a pretty good deal.
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I am doing a ring job right now on a 1.6 TD. Considered an oversize piston and rebore but the price is a bit large. Who is this mike guy? That price almost seems reasonable if it for a set of 4. One thing that I have noticed is that all the replacement valves, gaskets, rings and bearings are coming with holographic logos presumably to indicate quality so that the buyer has some assurance that these are not just cheap knockoffs cranked out of some Asian or South American sweatshop.
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yea those asians are notorious for reverse-engineering products and mass producing them with little quality control... i doubt that they can produce kollbenschmidt quality pistons though :) although i'm beginning to think if there was enough demand for it, they might just try :shock:
myke_w is his username on the forum here do a search in the vendors section. i will be buying my pistons from him when i get the motor all honed and bored. its for the set of 4 with 4 rings and circlips.
http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=5957
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well, here is an update on my situation: I was buying oil and on a whim decided to buy a bottle of a oil additive touted to reduce smoke from oil consumption. I'm not normally drawn to chemical solutions for mechanical problems, but the reason I was going to switch to synthetic was to get a higher flash point and hopefully less oil burn. So I figured $6 invested in the interest of science....
Stuff is thicky, gooey and sticky (drips turn into streamers and fly in the wind like chainsaw bar oil). I did notice a reduction in smoke over the next couple days. In for a penny and all that, I decided to retest the car for aircare........and it passed. New reading was 18/30 as compared to 33/30 in above posts. Nothing else changed, same fuel, no adjustments. The car might have been more completly warmed up as I tested it after my morning commute. Last week I tested at lunch time after driving around a bit.
Brand I bought was Bardahl. I didnt get the one that promissed to swell seals to stop leaks, as I don't have leaks and dont want to have them.
YMMV
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bardahl is some good stuff. problem with the gooeyness is that it thickens up your oil (not so great in the winter time)
since you're selling your car it doesn't really matter, but the car should be warmed up longer than normal since the oil is thicker now.
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oh yeah, the oil change is still planned, I didnt intend to leave that stuff in there.
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you can leave the bardahl in there or maybe not depending on how cold it is :lol: ... it won't hurt anything. i hate people who cut up additives... yes some of them are worthless but some are actually pretty good.
wynn's oil stop leak worked good in my older diesel in the summer time. yep no oil burning/leaking. it just increases the viscosity of the oil! that basically means being more gentle on the motor before it has a chance to start up. most of the additives will actually 'stick' to metal surfaces in case anyone is worried about low oil flow at start up.
winter came around and i switched to synthetic... oil didn't burn and seemed as though no oil leaking.
if all you're after is to help an old diesel motor live longer, then why spend $$$ on a rebuild when all you need is to add a good additive? you can easily squeeze another 5 years with some additives :)
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:twisted: Update: Got truck back Wed Jan 10 (spent $1142 on Injectors/IP rebuild/Pump timing to 1.02mm/Valve-Crank-Pump timig/you name it)
Went to emissons PASSED 30% power at 8.6% ,FAILED WOT at 46.9 %.
Went to county where they gave me a waiver do to improvement and the fact that I spent more than $750. Who-raw, WE is RAW.
Put some Bardal StopLeak/NoSmoke in on Thus. We will see.
Thanks for all the help! :P (Even the hijerkers helped!) :roll: