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For Sale/Looking For => Parts for Sale/Wanted => Topic started by: VDub_Fun on December 20, 2006, 11:53:59 am
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I need a TDi-M injection Pump. I got a complete TDi-M swap only to put the motor in the car and find out that the Injection Pump is toast. If anyone has a mechanical TDi pump Please let me know I am in desperiate need of one.
Contact me via PM, E-Mail: [email protected], or E-Mail: [email protected]
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how toast is it? can't you just buy a rebuild kit for it? maybe you just need a new feed pump and new rotor.
is the pump sucking any fuel? maybe theres too much air in it.
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Pump is totally toast. Pump is full of diesel on the low pressure side, nothing on the high pressure side. Pump will not suck fuel from low to high, or from the tank for that matter. Yes I did crank the engine, killed off 2 batteries and one starter. I have primmed the pump many times. Pump was completely dry when I obtained it. If there is some trick that I am missing about priming up the pump please let me know.
Thanks
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Crack the injection lines to bleed air pressure? I've heard that sometimes the air in the injection lines can be pressurized enough by the pump to prevent proper priming. Loosening the lines at the injector then turning it over should prevent that.
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Tryed that several times, nothing, not a drip of diesel from the high pressure side.
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Usually I use a little fuel pump (the electric kind for carburetors) to push the fuel through the pump. When I get volume out of the return line I reconnect the feed and it usually fires right up.
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I havent tryed that one yet. Well if I can find a little in line pump, I think Ill give it a go, if that doesnt get fuel to the high pressure side, then I think nothing will
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unless you stick a vacuum pump on the diesel return hose to get fuel flowing out of the pump, your car probably will not fire. i've had a return hose go on me, and just by changing it for a brand new hose, that little bit of air made the car take about a full minute of cranking just to start up! :shock:
me and andy2 did a ghetto pump bleed :lol: ... he slowly fed the pump fuel (10w30... :lol:) while i cranked it over (he fed the pump directly). i can honestly say that the pump took a LOT of fuel... man that vacuum pump would have saved about 20-30 minutes!!! If you take off the main line going to the pump and pour diesel in it, and you crank it over, does the fuel get sucked into the pump? if so its dry. (remember to have the injectors cracked at this point)
I still think that your pump still has air in it, unless you've actually bled it with a vacuum pump. the car should still at least run half assed with a bad pump.
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Just a wild thought... but is the fuel shutoff solenoid working properly?
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Yup shut off seloid is working , hear a click when the key is turned to accessory, and when trying to start.
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unless you stick a vacuum pump on the diesel return hose to get fuel flowing out of the pump, your car probably will not fire. i've had a return hose go on me, and just by changing it for a brand new hose, that little bit of air made the car take about a full minute of cranking just to start up! :shock:
me and andy2 did a ghetto pump bleed :lol: ... he slowly fed the pump fuel (10w30... :lol:) while i cranked it over (he fed the pump directly). i can honestly say that the pump took a LOT of fuel... man that vacuum pump would have saved about 20-30 minutes!!! If you take off the main line going to the pump and pour diesel in it, and you crank it over, does the fuel get sucked into the pump? if so its dry. (remember to have the injectors cracked at this point)
I still think that your pump still has air in it, unless you've actually bled it with a vacuum pump. the car should still at least run half assed with a bad pump.
I filled up the pump directly from the feed. Filled it up untill diesel spilled a little bit, conntected the feed hose to filter, filled the feed hose to the pump, cranked engine. Nothing no movement of fuel. Removed the line, pump is still full, no movement of fuel what so ever, no air bubbles in feed line. Injectors were left with the lines off, no fule in lines.
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If your inj pump is no good then you should take it to a fuel shop where it could be looked at. It could just have stuck transfer pump blades from sitting for a while with old gummed up fuel.It may just need to come apart to be cleaned then reasembled and tested for less $$$$ than a new pump if no major internal parts are required :wink:.
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The reason I ask about the movement of the plunger is that you could have a broken plunger. If the plunger is moving, then you can assume that the high pressure side is okay. I have heard of stop solenoids still clicking and yet not allowing fuel to pass. Really can't see how that could be the case, but might be worth removing the solenoid plunger altogether just to eliminate it as a possibility. You can always dump the clutch to shut it off if you do get it running. Often times if a pump is stored dry, the vanes of the vane pump will stick. It is only centrifugal motion (and gravity to a slight extent) that keeps the vanes against the sides of the pump housing. If the vanes stick, then the low pressure pump will not function at all.
Andrew
I think that the vanes are stuck personally, or the plunger is broken as you have said. Ive primed up alot of diesel pumps in the past and never had this issue before.
As for taking it to a shop to have is dissasembled and cleaned/inspected no one around my immediate area has any clue on mechanical TDI pumps, let alone the electronic ones (Myself included. I only have a very very ruff idea of what is what , and what does what). The 2 shops that are semi local to me dont even have the equipment to test the TDi electronic pumps. I have been in contact with Kelch Repair Services in Ohio, and they are going to build me a Mechanical TDi pump. I have already sent down a electronic TDi pump, just waiting for it to get there so they can build the pump. Hopefully all goes well, and I get a correctly working mechincal TDi pump.
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isn't the mechanical tdi pump just a modded 1.6 with a tdi cam plate, bigger head, and some other parts??? correct me if i am wrong... if thats so then pretty much any diesel shop should be able to crack open the pump and play around with it :)
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When I phone the semi local shops up and explained to them that it was basically a modded 1.6L Injection pump they said not to even bring it.
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What about Giles? He's a lot closer than Ohio!
I'll bet he knows his way around that thing!
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I actually contacted Giles, he said that if I gave him an electronic pump and a mechanical (1.6 or 1.9) that he "should" be able to figure it out. For that reason I sent off my electronic one to Ohio since they have done many mechaical TDi pumps, and I need a quick turn around so that I can finally have my car back.
So far this has been the swap from hell. 1st motor I got was totally blown apart internally, I found out this after I got all the maintance items done on it was was changing the oil pan gasket because the one on the motor didnt look to heathly and I had a new one anyways. I was told this was a good strong running motor! Dropped the pan and found large chuncks of pistion rings, and head material, got a second one, installed some maintance items, and swapped everything from the blown motor to this one, went to put the new clutch and flywheel on that I had, and found out the new flywheel wasnt compatable with my pressure plate, same with the old one both were single pin, pressure plate was double pin. Installed the motor, hooked everything up, and the IP turns out to be bad.
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Hopefully you made that first seller own up to his BS! :shock: :x :evil:
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Oh I made the seller own up to it, he was the one that provied the second motor to me, too bad he wont make good on the mechanical injection pump. The second one is in far better shape, both externally and internally. The second motor has about 100 000kms on it, according to the cluster that went with the motor. Internally it checks out and does appear to have about 100 000kms on it. The first motor has a VNT17 turbo on it that I will not be running due to doubting how good it is, I will have to dissasemble it an make sure every thing is in check. There is very little shaft play as there should be since there is no oil in the bearings, fins on the exhaust and intake look good, but for peace of mind I will dissasemble it and inspect it, same goes the with injectors. As for the injectors I will just be keeping the bodies and having the nozzles changed out, even though the nozzles in the injectors are supposed to be the .216's
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Once I get my car up and running, I will make a detailed post in the TDi part of this site detailing everything that went right and everything that went totally wrong and the costs for everything.
I just want to thank everyone that has replied for their help :)