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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: wolfsburgnut on December 08, 2006, 08:14:43 pm
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I was using Valvoline oil (15W-40 CI-4 rated I think) up until a couple of months ago until my local altrom dealer convinced me to try Liqui-Moly High Tech Touring 15W-40. Its got the VW rating 502 I think, and I immediately noticed a huge difference in startup oil pressure (for the better) and oil consumption (about a liter every 6000 kms). However I noticed the API rating on it is only for CF!!! What the heck? I got some Liqui-Moly MoS2 10w40 semi synthetic for my car today, and again noticed it was only rated for CF.
I was wondering what kinds of oil other people use in their cars and if anybody has experience with the Liqui-Moly. I highly recommend it, even though its 26 bucks for 5 L of the High Tech and 36 bucks for 5L of the MoS2! :shock:
Peter
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isn't CF rated for turbo diesels???
the original rating for 1.6TD's was CD wasn't it?
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i never had any problems with that oil. we even use it at work :)
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I use liqui moly on my corrado...havent got the diesel running yet but will be using it aswell....i like the oil....
first when i changed to it in the corrado i noticed it ran smoother and quieter!! it could have only been the new oil....but i have had no problems with it!!!!
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5w 40 shell rotella t full synthetic
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Tech2000 full synthetic 10w30 (wal-mart oil). 20$ for 4.4L. Very happy with cold starts so far :D
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I am trying a blend this go around, 0w-40 Mobil 1 and Walmart 15w-40 about a 50/50... seems fine
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5w 40 shell rotella t full synthetic
Pretty much what I run, 0W40 shell rotella T SB full synthetic. Great stuff, no complaints so far
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ufa polar plus 0w30 (rebranded esso xd3 synthetic) for ~22 a 5L jug
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5w 40 shell rotella t full synthetic
Pretty much what I run, 0W40 shell rotella T SB full synthetic. Great stuff, no complaints so far
Same here....runs great
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i notice a difference in how it runs with the sythetic seems looser, the turbo seems to like it too
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I was using Rotella 15w-40 for a while, but I noticed my oil consumption was pretty bad (1 qt 500 miles approx). I tried Delo 400 15w-40 and now it's a lot better, down to 1/2 qt every 1200 miles. Cold starts seem to be ok.
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i notice a difference in how it runs with the sythetic seems looser, the turbo seems to like it too
I run the Rotella synthetic also. I know synthetic is better for the turbo
because synthetic takes heat a lot better, and is less likely to coke up. I
used to run it in my circle track car when I raced. Had one hot day where my
water temp was a continuous 260 or above, as the gauge only went that
high. We were sure the cylinders and pistons were going to be scored, but
they only had polished marks on them. That's when I lost all doubt that
synthetic was way better.
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I use Amsoil Series 3000 Synthetic 5W-30 Heavy-Duty Diesel Oil (HDD)
(https://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/images/hdd_qt_300pxh.jpg)
Here are the ratings
• API CI-4+, CF, CF-2, SL • ACEA A3/B3, E2, E3, E5 • Global DHD-1 • JASO DH-1 • Mack EO-N Premium Plus ’03 • DDC Power Guard 93K214 • Caterpillar ECF-1 • Cummins CES 20071, 20072, 20076, 20077, 20078 • Volvo VDS-2, VDS-3 • MB 228.1, 228.3, 229.1 • MAN 3275 • MTU Type 1 • MIL-PRF-2104G
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I did use Delo 400 15w40, but went to Rotella T 15w40. I'm hesitant to use synthetic oil since it has had dino oil in it forever.
Any responses about me hesitant about changing over to synthetic appreciated. :D
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There are no compatability issues. Just if you have any leaking seals or gaskets, they will leak more with synthetic.
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i heard that pure synthetics will not mix with dino... anyone have any info on that??? not that i'm gonna dish out mega bucks to buy pure... :wink:
just remember that full synthetic isn't the same as 100% synthetic... damn marketing schemes!!! :x
i think one of the main reasons that synthetics leak more, is because of the added detergency of the oil. it really does clean your engine! and seals too....
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I did some searching and found:
Statement #1 is true.
i heard that pure synthetics will not mix with dino... anyone have any info on that??? not that i'm gonna dish out mega bucks to buy pure... :wink:
Statement #2 is true.
i think one of the main reasons that synthetics leak more, is because of the added detergency of the oil. it really does clean your engine! and seals too....
"Mixing Mineral and Synthetic oils - the new hotness
That's the thing with progress - stuff becomes out-of-date. Fortunately for you, dear reader, the web is a great place to keep things up-to-date, so here's the current thinking on the subject of mixing mineral and synthetic oils. This information is based on the answer to a technical question posed on the Shell Oil website.
There is no scientific data to support the idea that mixing mineral and synthetic oils will damage your engine. When switching from a mineral oil to a synthetic, or vice versa, you will potentially leave a small amount of residual oil in the engine. That's perfectly okay because synthetic oil and mineral-based motor oil are, for the most part, compatible with each other. (The exception is pure synetics. Polyglycols don't mix with normal mineral oils.)
There is also no problem with switching back and forth between synthetic and mineral based oils. In fact, people who are "in the know" and who operate engines in areas where temperature fluctuations can be especially extreme, switch from mineral oil to synthetic oil for the colder months. They then switch back to mineral oil during the warmer months.
There was a time, years ago, when switching between synthetic oils and mineral oils was not recommended if you had used one product or the other for a long period of time. People experienced problems with seals leaking and high oil consumption but changes in additive chemistry and seal material have taken care of those issues. And that's an important caveat. New seal technology is great, but if you're still driving around in a car from the 80's with its original seals, then this argument becomes a bit of a moot point - your seals are still going to be subject to the old leakage problems no matter what newfangled additives the oil companies are putting in their products."
Also: pay particular attention to the last bit
VW / Audi sludge problems
While the the 1.8T engines in Audi A4's, Audi TT, VW Passat, Jetta, Golf, New Bettle, are all very prone to sludge build-up, Audi/VW does not have an extended warranty for them from the factory. The factory warranty is 4 year/50,000 miles but it can be extended if purchased.
Although Audi/VW now has 10,000 mile service intervals, oil changes can be done between "services", and should be done if the vehicle is driven in heavy traffic, offroad, and non-highway use. Also, Audi/ VW will only warrant an engine if the customer has proof of all their oil changes. As of 2004 I belive all 1.8T engines must use synthetic oil.
So if you own one of these sludge-prone engines, what can you do? Obviously, Volkswagen Audi Group (VAG) recommends that you use only VW/AUDI recommended oil which at the time of writing is Castrol Syntec 5W-40. You should also keep up on your oil changes, making them more frequent if you drive hard or haul a lot of cargo. The most important thing for the VW or Audi owner is this: if the oil light comes on and beeps the high pitch beep that most everyone ignores, pull over and shut the engine down immediately. Many VAG engines can be saved by this procedure. Have the vehicled towed to a VAG dealer. Their standard procedure is to inspect the cam bearings; if they're not scored, the oil pan will be removed and cleaned out and all the crankcase breather hoses and the oil pickup tube will be replaced. They'll do an oil pressure test with a mechanical gauge, and hopefully will also replace the turbo lines. Finally, the turbo will be checked for bearing free-play. The VAG turbos run really hot even with proper oil and coolant supply - that's why you need a good quality synthetic in them. "
I realize this is for the gas engines, but why would you want to take a chance in a Diesel when the conditions are the same or worse?
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One thing I noticed when I was doing research into oil is that Liqui-Moly and other European oils are ACEA rated first and API second. Even though the API rating is a little old, the ACEA rating on the bottle is the latest one. At the local Altrom store they tell me stories about TDI guys that have various and assorted engine noises that cant be explained, oil pressure problems etc, and they switch to Liqui-Moly or another ACEA rated oil and the problems disappear.... it seems that the API rating is not all that it is cracked up to be. In fact the general consensus out there is that the ACEA rating system is a lot tougher and their tests geared towards diesels and specifically turbo diesels.
Peter
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I agree with the 1.8T engine sludge problems,i has a 2001 in yesterday with a top end rattle,removed the rocker cover :shock: black death had set in, VW changed the oil last time,12,000 miles prevoius,and the car had full dealer history,this tells me the oil needs changing more often,the car has done 101,000 miles.My cars get oil and filters every 3000 miles MAX,no engine problems in my family.
I cured the rattle by draining the sump and adding 50% parafin to 50% 20w50 oil and leave it to tick over for 15 mins,you wouldnt believe the crap parafin mix removes,drain again,fill with 20w50 and run for 5 mins,then new filter and 10w40 semi synthetic oil,job done,also give the owner a roasting about having 'too many services'
Bert
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I use 15/50 Mistic JT8 in all of my equiment, and 95 dodge diesel, and 83 vw diesel.
However I use different oil in 04 TDI golf. I get the oil and filter from the VW dealership.
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the main problem with the 1.8T engine I believe, is that people drive them hard, which they were meant for, but do not allow the turbo to cool down. this is very significant in the creation of sludge.
i'm sure that not all 1.8T motors have this problem... only certain people :)