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General Information => Troubleshooting => Topic started by: Genious on December 07, 2006, 06:51:30 pm
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Hi all!! This is my first time posting on this board. I have a 1.6L TD that I have installed in my 88 Suzuki Samurai. When I did the install I decided that (for right now) I didn't need a heater. So when I did the install, I just ran a hose from the end of the head to the middle intake on the water pump housing. Now I am having some cooling issued and was wondering if having that much recirculation of the hot coolant from the head might be some of my problem. To test this I want to cut off the hose to see if my cooling improves, but I don't want to damage the head in my little test.
So I guess my direct question is....Can I totally cutoff this return line, or if I can't cut it off totally, how much could I safely restrict it?
TIA, Jim
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I'm pretty sure you can completely block it off. I beleive that when the heater is turned off on a stock car that coolant fow from the end of the head is completely restricted. Have someone verify that first though...
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Thanks for the reply. If I get some more feedback saying the same thing I will cut it off tomorrow and monitor the head temps with my IR thermometer.
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If I remeber I'll pop the hood on my car and just have a look, it's tucked away for the night right now though
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Thanks man. I am checking through any online refrences I can find about the VW heating system/FSM/Bently. I am even searching the Samurai manuals, because most guys do have their heaters hooked up to the stock Samurai system. If I can find that the Samuri controlls also completely cut off the flow when it is not heating, then I will fell alot more confident capping off both ends. (Until I decide I need heat :roll: )
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On a Golf/Jetta I/II/III setup, the coolant is circulating through the heater core constantly and heating is controlled by dampers. You should NOT clamp the line from the end of the head to the middle port on the water pump!
Peter
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wolfsburgnut, if it isn't completely cut off, what is the smallest passage that you think it goes through? If I can't cut it off completely, I would want to at least restrict it as much as it is when the heater isn't being used.
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i dont know too much on this subject, but i will share some of my findings.
when i ran my heater on to cool my motor in the summer (fan not working... bad thermoswitch), i switched back to a/c, and it took a really really long time to become cool... about 3-4 minutes. this tells me that the coolant hose was blocked, and my a/c was working hard to cool off my heater core & the liquid inside it.
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I was just looking through the Bently manual and it LOOKS like the thermostat is long enough that when it pops open to allow the raqdiator coolant to flow, it also partially blocks the top recirulating flow. If this is the case I really need to get a new thermostat.
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I don't have it in right now. I have been taking it in and out with other changes to see what makes a difference in the cooling ability.
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yeah i think you all forgot about the hose that foes from the front of head directly to the waterpump.
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I didn't forget about the front hose, I just am worried that if I use it exclusively to move coolant through the head I might create a hot area in the head or block because of improper flow if I cut off the flow from the end of the head.
I wil be getting a new t-stat to replace my present one. Maybe it is bad along with my other hose routing problem.
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Sorry, I am interested in the hose that goes from the end of the head to the heater core. I am just trying to determine if it needs some level of flow or can be completely eliminated until I choose to reinstall my heater.
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To sum up in English:
lol... as if we were speaking anything else? :wink: :lol:
one of my pet peeves is when people say stuff like "explain that in english." rather than saying something like... "i'm a complete knob...?!"
many thanks to libbypapa for help that everyone SHOULD[/u] understand...
i did a cooling system flush with the thermostat out... thats okay right? :oops:
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danke schön!
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ah man... lol well at least i know for next time :) thanks!
i was just jokingly referring to the english bit... no offense to anyone at all. again its just my pet peeve, but i thought it was funny the way you explained it.
lol if anyone was ranting it was me... :oops:
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Got two freeze plugs today and as soon as my new 80C thermostat arrives I will drain and install it and the plugs. I should be able to let y'all know the results by next Sunday.
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I thought about that, but two things moved me to go with the slightly cooler t-stat. 1) I live in FL and like to keep things cooler to start off. 2) I have this engine in a Suzuki Samurai, which has all the areodynamics of a brick. And at Highway speeds I quickly build some serious heat. In the future a intercoller will help this but for now I will have to live with slightly higher EGTs. In the future, if I can get this thing performing as well as I would like it to I will start tweeking the efficency side of it. Right now I am just trying to get the function and performance I need.
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After I get my little girl runing right I will definately try the warmer t-stat.
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Got the new t-stat installed tonight and blocked off the heater portion of my cooling system. While I let her idle tonight she never went above 188F. Tomorrow I drive her to work. 25m one way with about 15 of that being highway. Well see how she does!
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definitly keep us posted
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First, THANKS for all of your help and input!
Well the new stat is in. I went to work with her a couple times now, and my coolant temps now stay right around 190F and only go up to 202F while I am running at 60-65mph. My oil temps were still in the 230 range, so I did some more searching through the board here and I figured out that my timing was too retarded. I now have it set to about 1.00mm. After setting the new timing, I took her on a short trip and my EGTs were down across the board and at highway speeds I was only getting the oil tems to around 215-220F. I will try a little more advance later today and see if I can finally be happy with my little Frankenstein. :o
Jim
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i've set my timing to around 1.06mm and i'm liking it... a lot :) cold starting has never been easier. no hiccups, and it will actually start with the cold start pushed all the way in without too much trouble.
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I have a problem, every time it gets down to about -10F or colder my rabbit gets hotter than in the summer. When I start the car the temp needle slowly goes up untill it's about two notches from redline and then it goes back down to normal and stays there. I have a stock gauge so there's no numbers on it. If it's colder out it takes longer to cool back down and if it's much warmer it doesn't overheat at all. I put cardboard in front of the radiator and it only gets to hot if I work it hard, like uphill or drive in a few inches of snow. I think I have a 185F t-stat. When I got the car there wasn't a t-stat in it, I don't remember if I ran it or not. Does the t-stat think it's too cold to open?
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I have a problem, every time it gets down to about -10F or colder my rabbit gets hotter than in the summer. When I start the car the temp needle slowly goes up untill it's about two notches from redline and then it goes back down to normal and stays there. I have a stock gauge so there's no numbers on it. If it's colder out it takes longer to cool back down and if it's much warmer it doesn't overheat at all. I put cardboard in front of the radiator and it only gets to hot if I work it hard, like uphill or drive in a few inches of snow. I think I have a 185F t-stat. When I got the car there wasn't a t-stat in it, I don't remember if I ran it or not. Does the t-stat think it's too cold to open?
hmmm i'd say just go with an oem thermostat and ditch the cardboard over rad trick. my car has no problems keeping up temp WITH the blower on max. basically when your temps are dropping, thats when the thermoswitch on the rad fan is kicking on and it is sucking air from around the cardboard... kind of counter-productive.
(seems as though no matter how fast i drive, it doesn't cool down... this oem thermostat rules!!!)