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Engine Specific Info and Questions => Non VW Group Diesel => Topic started by: scopefrfd on October 28, 2006, 08:55:46 pm
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Does anyone know if vw made a metal headgasket for the 2.4 6 cylinder diesel engines. I'm rebuilding a D24T and I'd like to get a metal HG if possible
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I don't think so, maybe the Volvo guys know
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I think the metal one was designed as a service replacement part because so many of the lesser ones blew out...
Hard to find, but it does exist.
You might be able to get some info here... http://lists.subtend.net/mailman/listinfo/d24
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Volvo does have a steel head gasket. I understand it is only available from Volvo dealers and costs over $200. I can be peeled to get the correct thickness. It is reputed to last longer than the others and can be reused. :D
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$200 is a crazy price for a MLS HG.....that's like when vw use to charge over $125 for a G60 MLS HG....then Reinz sold the same exact HG for $40 aftermarket. If it was $100 I'd buy one...but I picked up a Reinz volvo HG for $40. They're good for 150K, so I went that route.
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Total seal rings installed...ported and polished head is done....just waiting for the tranny mainshaft seals to come in and I think it may be in a week or so.
I found a really nice heat exchanger that I'm going to use as an intercooler. It's a water to air unit...the sucker has to weigh atleast 20lbs and it has a copper heat exchanger.
Need to change the intake do a standard D24 style. If anyone wants to post pics I can send pics of the engine and the progress.
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PM sent...
What did you do for a headgasket?
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I went with the stock Reinz HG....I know the metal HG is an upgrade but I've personnally never have had trouble with the Reinz fiber HG. I only plan on running 20psi of boost so it should be ok. The price the dealer charges for the metal HG is quite frankly robbery, over $170 difference in price. I took the money saved on the HG and bought total seal rings.
Just put new nozzles in and pop tested them...all around 155bar. Going to set the timing at 1.00mm. I want to put the whole engine in complete so I'm going to time out the pump while it's on the engine stand.
Going to re-seal the pump this week...the pump did not leak but I don't want to take the chance of seal failure once it's in.
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i have a volvo td :^( rwd and more potential wheee
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Well the pump is resealed...while I was in there I removed the intermediate spring and shimmed the governor so it puts a light preload on the main spring. hat'll give me some more fuel up top in the rpm band.
I also adjusted the star wheel...I was able to turn it down 3 full turns. I rotated the aneroid pin so it will be able to give more fuel and removed the plastic stop/bushing so the pin will have more total travel.
I've emailed some pics out...hopefully they'll get posted
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(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b126/SVOlvo/scopefrd_d24/DSC05361.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b126/SVOlvo/scopefrd_d24/DSC05356.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b126/SVOlvo/scopefrd_d24/DSC05354.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b126/SVOlvo/scopefrd_d24/DSC05352.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b126/SVOlvo/scopefrd_d24/DSC05351.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b126/SVOlvo/scopefrd_d24/DSC05346.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b126/SVOlvo/scopefrd_d24/DSC05340.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b126/SVOlvo/scopefrd_d24/DSC05338.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b126/SVOlvo/scopefrd_d24/DSC05317.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b126/SVOlvo/scopefrd_d24/DSC05273.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b126/SVOlvo/scopefrd_d24/DSC05269.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b126/SVOlvo/scopefrd_d24/DSC05259.jpg)
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thanks for posting the pics
...engine is in the car..should be running hopefully by the end of the weekend. I just need to figure out the wiring harness as some a**hole stole my laptop computer bag with my laptop, camera, and volvo green shop manuals.
If anyone has the volvo D24T shop manuals for sale please email me.
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This may help with the wiring:
http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/2157/1425/1600/g11.jpg
More excerpts from the greenbook here:
http://volvoturbodiesel.blogspot.com/
Thanks Ross, and too bad you beat me on the greenbooks lot :P
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That is just beautiful. Nice work.
If you don't mind, would you share with us where you got your parts? and thereabouts how much this rebuild cost?
Thank you very much. Good luck.
-Eli
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Well, it's running...the engine started right up in 20F weather...let the engine warm-up and did the 1st retorque. I have to say there is virtually no blow-by pressure coming out of the valve cover. I think the total seal rings are doing there job.
I had to delete the volvo 740 gas oil to air cooler as it was a real pain getting it in there and mounted properly. I'm going back to the vw unit. I have a larger oil/water oil cooler from and audi S4 and the volvo air/oil unit. I'm installing an oil temp gauge..if the original oil cooler can't do the job...I'll upgrade to the larger audi unit..if that doesn't keep the oil temps in check..then I'll switch over to the volvo air to oil unit. I also installed a 80C/176F thermostat so that should help keep the oil temps from rising excessively.
Hopefully it'll be on the road in a week or so.
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hi Eli
I have a couple of wholesale accounts...I build primarily vw/audi engines as a hobby. The total seal rings are fairly pricey...when rebuilding a D24t....you're better off buying parts for a vw 4 cyl diesel ..where the parts are the same. Such as, rod bearings, oil pump, front and rear main seals, rings, valve guides, valves etc.
The D24t specific parts..just shop around as there are huge price differences if you take the time. I haven't added all the prices up yet but I will say it costs alot more to rebuild a D24t than a 1.6td..may 3'xs as much. just the price of an oil pump will make you faint.
"IRoll
That is just beautiful. Nice work.
If you don't mind, would you share with us where you got your parts? and thereabouts how much this rebuild cost?
Thank you very much. Good luck.
-Eli"
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Hey,
Believe it or not, I have an brand new oil pump, and my head is rebuilt already. I am now just looking at the bottom half. I have been shopping around. It seems reasonable, I just wanted to compare with you seeing as you've just done it. here are some prices I've found.
Pistons: 98.44 each, 590.64 total.
Full gasket sets (top and bottom, not including head gasket, but i think the seals are included.): 108.14
Rod bearing set: 39.36
Main bearing set: 81.95
Water pump: 30.49
Total of: 850.58 (Already have head gasket+bolts)
Most of this stuff is from Volvopartsdirect.com
How do these prices sound to you? I've never bought any of this stuff before.
Do you think I need anything else?
I took the bock out yesterday, and have begun tearing it down. What did you use to unbolt the rear main bearing? The bolts are too close to the edge of the engine to get a socket or a box wrench on, and an open end wrench just wasn't cutting it.
I don't mean to hijack your thread, us D24 guys have gotta stick together :wink:
Thanks for your help, and good luck with getting yours on the road.
-E
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Hey guys,
I got the rear main bearing off, the thing in the way was the rear seal. My oil pan gasket was stuck on, so I couldn't tell that was the rear seal, and that it in fact came off until I got the gasket off. Duh... Should have checked my green books. Anyway, that's out of the way.
Thanks for listening
-E
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Make sure you buy the 1-piece rubber valve cover gaskets....the cork multi piece always leak after a short time.
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Where can I get one of those? All I have found are the cork ones.
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Either from the dealer, or many import part places. The 1 piece gaskets last quite awhile, just make sure the studs are fully seated, as they tend to enjoy backing out when you remove the VC bolts.
The total seals are an excellent choice, and the blowby should decrease as the engine breaks in.
Here is an inline 6 video (merc) to get you guys excited about tuning your D24T's!
http://media.putfile.com/Mercedes-Benz-W124-E300-TurboDiesel-
Is there any interest in rebuilding or modified D24T injection pumps? Anywhere from stock rebuilds to extensive modifications :idea:
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Thanks, I'll check 'em out.
Can't we use the same pump mods as the vw guys use on their 1.6's? ( http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=645 ) I deffinatly want to do those. As for rebuilding them... I just bought a rebuilt pump off of Ebay. Sorry if I outbid any of you guys. :oops: I have a few others lying around, I think I'd be willing to give a rebuild a shot once I got my car in good shape.
As for the vid, I couldn't get it to play... maybe its me? But thats Benz anyway man! Check this out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FR0faI8nzSM
Not that great a vid, its just nice to know there are other people out there doing this too :wink:
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Hows the progress Scopefrfd?
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Since this is the happening D24 thread right now, a question!
Are the head bolts on the D24T engine the same as the head bolts on a later (M...F? the TD version) 1.6? What I'm getting at is, could you replace the bolts with the studs and use the same style studs as you would use for the 1.6?
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sure, but Racware will sell you a set made for the D24.
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Probably cost an arm and a leg, too. No prices on the site and all that.
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About $270 US with fast shipping
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Since this thread is already up.
I couldn't find wrist pin bushings for my rebuild anywhere. So I ordered two sets(8) for a 1985 jetta turbo diesel. I sent them right to my machine shop(they're checking all my clearances), he calls me up today and says they're not right. Whats the deal?
Does anyone know where I could get some D24T wrist pin bushings? Or something that would work? I'm kinda at the end of my rope. Might even call the volvo dealer...
Thanks guys.
-E
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Ask them to double check, those are the bushings that I have used on my 5 cyl TD, they were exactly the same as the old ones that came out.
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I just compared the part numbers between the Volvo and the 1.6 TD bushing and they have the same number, 068 105 431.(see Altrom)
They will have to drill the top oil hole after they have pressed the bushing into the rod, the split in the bushing has to go side ways, not up or down.
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Hey thanks a lot Itzdshtz,
I don't know why they didn't fit. I trust my machinist, he knows what hes talking about, maybe I ordered the wrong ones?
I called the Volvo Dealer, they no longer stock them in the country :? ...
Good news though, my machinist found some that will fit, he said their out in Chicago. They'll be here in a few days, and I can start reassembly. Whoop!
-E
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on the headbolts...I've personally have never had trouble with the oem bolts and I've run 25 psi+ on the 1.9tdi's. It's probably cheaper to buy 2 sets of ARP bolts as opposed to raceware. I plan on limiting boost to 20 psi and fuel it accordingly.
I've haven't had time to really work on the volvo. I've installed a EGT and some oil temp and pressure gauges. My wastegate has gone bad and I need to replace it...the blow off valve opens at 18psi...so I haven't been able to go full throttle. I also have to replace the glow plug relay it won't power down. I found a new one on ebay "cheap" in volvo terms.
I will say this D24t is a super strong engine..the turbo spools right up and it hits 18 psi very quickly. I was able to get my hands on an actual D24tic factory intercooler some of the parts have come in from germany..when it all arrives I'll put that in. It looks like I'm going to have to use a D24 n/a intake as I wasn't able to get the tic intake manifold.
So far at part throttle I've only been able to hit about 900-1000F EGT pre-turbo...and the oil takes forever to warm up, according to the gauge.
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maybe a faulty thermostat??? low EGT's hmmm... time to increase the fuel? :twisted:
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the low EGT's is caused by the inoperable wastegate...the more fuel the more boost...so part throttle the engine is already making 18psi..which is a real positive considering how big the turbo is...I do have a tic intercooler on the way. Once it arrives I'll work on replacing the faulty wastegate.
I did put in a lower temp thermostat a 80c/176F and it's definitely keeping the oil temps down in check. Engine warms up quickly so I do not think it's faulty.
The D24T is a very detuned engine...more so than a 1.6td.
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Is the D24 n/a intake better then the D24T intake? I have often wondered about this. The n/a intake has longer tubes running to the head(I'm sure there's a name for them), but is this to its advantage? or disadvantage.
Also, I've heard that the intake manifold is a bad setup because all the air comes in at one end, thus the cylinders at the other end wouldn't be getting as much air. Would it be advantageous to cut/weld the inlet hole in the center of the manifold? Or does this even matter cause its a turbo and its all pressurized?
I don't have any experience when it gets down to this little nitty gritty stuff.
And Congratulations Scopefrfd, I got mine running/inspected as well. Do you know what sort of mileage your getting? My odometer isn't working properly, so I don't know what I am getting yet.
Thanks alot.
-E
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The D24 intake in my opinion is a better intake than the D24T. It has a larger plenum and longer and larger runners. I think all the cylinders would fill the same since the intake would be under pressure.
Another great upgrade for the D24T is an electric cooling fan setup from a 940. I finally hooked up mine and it runs great. The only drawback is the volvo fan relay is triggered by ground/neg switching. So I could only use the high speed switch for the radiator cooling. I wanted to use the low speed fan position when the a/c comes on but I can't as the a/c clutch gets a +/positive signal when it's switched on.
I'm sure I've gained a few ponies and hopefully my mpg will improve. Next up will be the intercooler.
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Just use a relay with the plus signal. Use the negative to ground out the relay. Works perfect.In other words your plus signal opens a ground that supplies a negative signal by using a relay. Instead of having the relay turn power on it turns on a ground with a plus signal. Hope that helps.
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Just use a relay with the plus signal. Use the negative to ground out the relay. Works perfect.In other words your plus signal opens a ground that supplies a negative signal by using a relay. Instead of having the relay turn power on it turns on a ground with a plus signal. Hope that helps.
yea same idea as installing a remote starter where the remote starter requires negative signals and you've only positive :D
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I used the factory harness and relay from the volvo. I like to keep everything oem is possible. It's alot easier to get parts if something fails.