VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: jtanguay on October 03, 2006, 09:32:27 pm
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Would love to see a conversion kit to switch to the newer style TDI filters like these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-Beetle-Jetta-Passat-Golf-Diesel-Oil-Filter-lot-of-4_W0QQitemZ180034664122QQihZ008QQcategoryZ33661QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting
I know the newer style engines use cartridge style filters like these, and are easily accessible by unscrewing a cap and lifting them out of the motor (no oil is lost btw) makes it good for synthetic filter changes!
would probably be really expensive to implement, but just curious...
How can this be fitted to my 1.6 :lol: :
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-TDI-1-9-ALH-Oil-Filter-Bracket-and-Cooler-NEW_W0QQitemZ200033874550QQihZ010QQcategoryZ46095QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting
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looks like it could work... would be such an awesome upgrade...!!!
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you have my approval to pioneer it. :D
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Out of curiousity... what are the benefits of going with the TDI setup? Do you suspect a filtration problem with the "old" style filter?
The IDI filter is quite a bit bigger than the normal oil filters for gas cars of the same years and interestingly enough is now the standard part for all 1.8T's with the north-south engine (Audi A4 / Passat, etc). I believe they did this after the "sludging" incidents. That tells me that VW/Audi still trust that filter....
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I concur, I'd like to know the bennifit.
I have not witnessed a VW diesel oil filter plugged with soot. I suppose there are some out there that have never been changed, but the oil would probably be as thick as tar from soot contamination. I doubt the filter is able to trap much soot. Yes, the filter element is black, but its not successfully removeing the majority of the soot. The soot particles are too small.
It is the job of the oil to suspend and break down the soot particles so they don't adveresly affect the engine.
There were a lot of folks on Fred's page that were running a bypass filter that would remove soot. As I recall, it was a sepperate system that used a roll of toilet paper to do the filtering. You might want to visit Fred's TDi page and see if these filters are still being used.
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the benefits my friends, is for quick and easy filter changes while running synthetic motor oil :twisted: no more quick and dirty filter changes, and having to add a qt of oil while doing it! after changing my girlfriend's filter on her 03 grand am (I had to force her to use synthetic... women...) I was in love with the filter cartridge. Just unscrew the cap, pull out (be careful not to drop any dirt in there) and replace with a good new one. Didn't lose much oil if any... just that which was stuck to the actual filter media, and a little bit is kept in the center of the cartrige, but much much less loss than with our filters.
Now... if its going to be a pain to install, then forget it. I was just wondering how easy it would be to retrofit this style system.
Another benefit could be the placement of the oil cooler. It looks as if it would be quite easy to install a remote oil cooler with thermostatic valves.
Best of both worlds, you get the fast warmups when cold, plus it cools your oil when you're having fun :twisted:
Does anyone have a pic of the oil filter mount on a 1.6TD by chance??? The listing says it will fit an ALH motor, so I'm guessing it wont fit. Will the filter housing from an AHU work??? :)
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I guess I'm not convinced it is safe to run extended drain intervals on the IDI motors, unless you used one of those TP bypass filters to take the soot out. There were some strong supporters for those filters on the TDi page a while back.
Is there anyone who has had an oil analysis done on a 1.6TD running the crappy fuel we get over here, and had acceptable levels of soot contamination after a couple of thousand miles?
Maybe when we get the low sulfer diesel fuel, our soot levels will drop too.
I guess the choice is dribbling sooty oil over top of your radiator support, or dropping the mess out the bottom as it is now.
The existing 1.6td oil filter fixture on the block has the same oil cooler that the TDi one does, and it will also accept a therostatically cotrolled remote cooler as well. The TDi one might also make things a little too cosy betwwen the block and the radiator fan shrowd on the MK1 chassis.
Given the choice of changing synthetic oil regularly around 3K miles, or running longer and have to do a rebuild earlier is an individal choice. Having done a few full rebuilds, I'll dump my synthetic at 3K instead.
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well with the recent change to ultra low sulphur diesel, it is hard to make my car smoke anymore. It will still make smoke, but not nearly as bad as before. Still need to get my pump seals fixed though.. it leaks pretty bad.
I, along with others, would agree that 10'000km oil change interval on a decent synthetic motor oil is possible. oil filter changes should be mandatory at 5000km though. this 'mod' would just make it easier to change the filter, and that is all. Oh and not to mention that the newer filters are a bit less expensive, larger overall, and contain newer technology to filter the oil for less soot in the oil. :)
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what about this setup??
i recommend watching their videos,it seems impressive
http://www.fs2500.com/
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what about this setup??
i recommend watching their videos,it seems impressive
http://www.fs2500.com/
thats funny they are just down the road from me. I might have to look into it
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I'm sold. I need this!!! Could probably get 25'000km out of an oil change :)
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theres a guy on ebay selling the kit for $499. but for a cummins diesel engine.
I wonder if there would be any kits to connect it up to our vehicles? I guess it couldn't be that hard to swap in..
so yea theres guys with big rigs getting 60'000km oil change intervals with good oil samples... wtf??? that means our dinky diesel engines could get about... 100'000km+!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! $499 is nothing compared to the savings, and reduced engine wear.
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wait... ok I found it here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Filtration-Solutions-FS-2500-bypass-filter-system_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33661QQihZ008QQitemZ180034961052QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
$190 USD for just the filter. oil lines etc we can find those for ourselves. This is one mean setup... I'm buying one asap.
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Get a oil cooler adapter plate (for a real oil cooler, not the stock TD one) and hook up the lines, should be easy to make work
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my dad was wonderin how to fit one up on his 03 tdi golf
is there taps on the filter pad(i know,i know,its a carteridge)
i could use one too with my soot blower
hey that dude that lives nearby the fs 2500,,check em out+let us know.......... :wink:
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if you can get them cheaper than $190 a piece, we want some!
I messaged the guy on ebay selling the cummins kit. I asked him where his hoses splice into (I was thinking it splices into a sensor or something... I would be very skeptical about splicing into say.... my turbo oil feed line?)
I'd say splice into an oil sensor on the head, and get a tee fitting to keep the sensor there.
forgot to add. yes it comes with taps on top... all you need is your own oil lines etc.
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Here's one that gives you a few options on dumping it in the pan, drain plug, or valve cover. found it on the TDi page.
http://www.oilguard.com/Auto.php?PHPSESSID=856016b27ad6e52806a862bc8b9018ef
This is not the TP element type
Glad to see we have reached an understanding on soot suspension.
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so this website says to use the oil sender port, and use a T to reconnect the oil pres sender. Pretty cool!
I like the idea of re-introducing the oil into the pan, although the valve cover isn't a bad idea. Anyone know where we can get a T to hook into the oil pres sender???
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Bypass filtration does work,and can greatly extend oil change intervals.You can pick up better and cheaper units out there,just shop around.Some can even be made to use a roll of toilet paper as a filter (new of course :lol: ).
They need to be plumbed into anywhere you have oil pressure.It can be at the filter,cyl head,whereever there is oil pressure,it doesn't matter.
Iit is very low flow,they use an inline restrictor,so oil can be returned anywhere.The valve cover makes the most sense,as it's easy,and very little chance of leaks,unlike the oil pan.
To make these things work,you need to use a very good quality synthetic oil which supports long drain intervals.You still need to change filters (both the main oil filter,and the bypass),at normal recommended intervals.You have to add makeup oil for the filters,and anything lost between changes.You need to do oil sampling,to see when the oil starts to breakdown,or if it is getting contaminated\dilluted.If you stick to the routine,they work.
For most people,it's way to much work,and too much money to put on a regular everyday car.You also must drive a lot of mileage to make it pay off.That is why you usually only see these systems used on big long haul trucks.There is too much oil contamination on vehicles used for short trips and stop and go driving.
By the time you add up your costs,for the filter kit,all the plumbing,etc,the filters,makeup oil,the original cost of extended drain synthetic,etc, it will be more cost effective to just do a regular oil change at the recommended interval.Why reinvent the wheel ?
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well my main reason for wanting it, is because of the black soot in my oil wreaking havoc on my engine parts. Synthetic can last 25'000km or so on a gas vehicle, and about 10'000km on a diesel (I wouldn't go further on a diesel because of soot contamination)
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If your using a good synthetic,and changing at 10,000 Km,then you have nothing to worry about.Just because the oil is black,does not mean it's wreaking havoc on your engine.
Do some oil sampling,at the 8000 Km mark or so,they will tell you exactly when you need to change it,and just how dirty it is.