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Engine Specific Info and Questions => Non VW Group Diesel => Topic started by: Turbinepowered on August 30, 2006, 04:52:59 pm
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Pulling away from the dieselizing crowd for a moment.
I think I might not put the Audi I5 diesel I have in the Syncro. No, I crave something a little less rare.
D24 owners, and I know you're out there, I need to know: How big is your engine?
Not the displacement, but physical external measurements. How long, wide, tall is that block? What's your bolt pattern?
What's the stick on the oil starvation issues in the head? Gasket failures and timing belt problems? Any fixes for these that you've come across?
I like the D24's torque @RPM value; If it fit I could regear the transmission and cruise at a lower RPM to save fuel. I'm not looking for a heavy hauler or a speed demon (Yet), but I do drive a wagon that's all wheel drive and i do use it to haul things in.
I imagine I would need an adapter plate to mate the engine and the trans together, but that doesn't bother me. I just need to know, before I go any further, "Will it physically fit?"
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Hi, total lenght from front crank pulley to where the bell housing bolts onto the block is 27".
Bellhousing bolt pattern is the same as Audi.
Motor mounts are 10.5 " from clutch side of block compared to 6.25" on Audi. (driverside)
Oil pan is bigger, has wide bag near clutch end.
Flywheel is heavier, will take same size clutch plate as Audi, pilot bearing in crankshaft is bigger than Audi, but you could install a different bearing.
For the rest, the width and height are the same as Audi.
This engine has the same issues with headgaskets and oiling systems as the Audi diesels, but overall a good engine IMHO.
You could probably weld 2 oil pans together to make it fit in the Audi, but I think you will have a problem with the total lenght.
The turbo engine has lots of power but the N/A is slow.
Hope this was helpful.
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So the bolt pattern is the same as the Audi I5 diesel? Sweeet, means it'll bolt right up.
I need to go out and measure how much total space I have in that engine bay; It's a Quantum Syncro and with the 5-cylinder in there I have a good amount of room up front...
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It's a Quantum Syncro and with the 5-cylinder in there I have a good amount of room up front...
I put a 5 banger TD into a syncro, there is VERY little room left behind the front valence, you will have to cut and rebuild the front valence farther out if you want to use the D24, the front bumper will likely have to be altered as well.
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I went out and measured... I need about an inch and a half's worth of sheet metal work out of it.
I'm fairly certain I can do the modifications needed, I know some good welders and have access to wonderful things like sheet metal and brakes.
Probably going to need to modify a hood, too. Anyone have an idea where I can get a second hood, or should I start going junkyard crawling?
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Okay, next big question, bound to start some kind of discussion:
What's the best service manual for these engines? Haynes? Bentley? Someone I don't know of yet?
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AFAIK Bently does not make a manual that covers the D24.
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Hi, here are some pictures that I have made from the Audi 5 TD and the Volvo 2.4 NA side by side, so you can compare actual size and differences between the two. ( The tranny is for a Vanagon Syncro and is different from your car tranny)
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/itzdshtz/th_DSCF2043.jpg) (http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/itzdshtz/DSCF2043.jpg)
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/itzdshtz/th_DSCF2047.jpg) (http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/itzdshtz/DSCF2047.jpg)
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/itzdshtz/th_DSCF2046.jpg) (http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/itzdshtz/DSCF2046.jpg)
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/itzdshtz/th_DSCF2042.jpg) (http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/itzdshtz/DSCF2042.jpg)
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/itzdshtz/th_DSCF2045.jpg) (http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/itzdshtz/DSCF2045.jpg)
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/itzdshtz/th_DSCF2044.jpg) (http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/itzdshtz/DSCF2044.jpg)
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Hmmmmmm... looks marvelous from here!
Is that a D24, D24TD, or D24TIC engine there? (Doh! Didn't read the post, stupid. NA. Durrrrrrr~)
Looking to get rid of it? I'm (I will be?) in the market soon...
Definitely bigger, yeah, and are those the engine mounts all the way on the back? That big chunk of metal in the bottom right corner, in the fifth picture? Hopefully not, that would certainly not match up and be in the way of steering components...
And that is one clean Audi I5, just want you to know that.
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Thanks.
It shows the motor mount and oil pan in the 5th picture, it is rather large and I don't think it will fit in your car. You could take two oil pans from a gasser engine, cut it and weld the two of them back together so that you get a longer pan. You also have to use the oil pickup tube from the gasser.
The cooling fan that is in picture 2 comes off and is in the same place that your front motor mount fits.
I have a turbo charger and exhaust manifold from a D24TD that I would like to install on this engine together with oil squirters etc when I rebuild it in the future.
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Where is the oil pump on the Volvo engine?
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The oil pump is mounted on the crankshaft end right behind the pulley.
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So what manual would you recommend, Itz? For the D24, that is.
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Hi, try to get a Volvo manual, they seem to be a bit better than the Audi one. They list piston weights, valve seat insert sizes etc.
You could also buy the Bentley Audi 5000 manual, it is the same engine minus one cylinder. All the specs are the same as the D24.
Look at this website for some examples of the Volvo manual :http://volvoturbodiesel.blogspot.com/
Herman
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You could also buy the Bentley Audi 5000 manual, it is the same engine minus one cylinder. All the specs are the same as the D24.
I have an audi 5K bently manual if you are interested.
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Which, the one up until '84 or post '84? I have both. Also Audi 5k gasser Haynes.
I've been gathering manuals for a while. ;p
I'll look into those Volvo manuals.
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It's the up to 84' issue.
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Ther Volvo green manuals are great. There may also be a bentley manual for the LT transporter( a big European VW) which shares the same D24T engine.
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So does the D24 have all the same mounting bosses in the block as the Audi engine? I am picking up a D24T soon, not sure why or what to do with it yet but curious...maybe a Mazda B2200 D24T or something crazy like that. I have plenty of Audi quattros to swap into and two 2.0L 5 cyl turbo diesels also...
Greg
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The motor mount bosses are moved forward about 4" on each side, the nice thing is that the starter motor bolts up to the block. It should be easy to make an adapter to another transmission or you could use the Volvo manual overdrive trans and connect it to a separate transfercase.
It would make a nice swap into a Toyota, Nissan or Mazda pickup.
I just love to roam around junkyards and look for VW, Audi or Mitsubishi diesels. When I see one that is reasonable in price I usually buy it and rebuild it whenever I have time.
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So the motor mounts are 4" forward of the Audi mount bosses, or the Audi bosses are 4" forward of the Volvo mount bosses?
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The Volvo motor mount bosses on the block are about 10" from the clutch end of the motor on the driver side and about 12" from the clutch end on the passenger side compared to 6" (both sides) on the Audi.
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http://www.expoze.se/grfx/ext/MOV00205.mpg
Film with Volvo D24 TIC, fuelinjectionpump built by me.
Nice??
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Cool!
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Cool, what turbo do you use and how much boost ? What did you do to the injection pump?
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put d24t in a jeep!! worth the effort!
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Folks,
The Audi engine is tilted over to the passenger side for a lower profile.
Does the Volve D24 tilt at the same angle, or does the bolt pattern on the block have it sitting straight up?
Thanks in advance,
Mark
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The D24 is likewise tilted onto its side, same angle.
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D24 is staright up, D24T has ganngsta lean to the passenger side.
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Deezul ryan, did you use a Volvo tranny in your Jeep or did you use an adapter?
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D24 is staright up, D24T has ganngsta lean to the passenger side.
You sure? I was looking at a 240 diesel with the D24 in it about a month ago, and it had the same side-tilt as the Audi engine did... at least, I believe it did. Would make sense, seeing as how the 2.4 and the 2.0 (And the 1.6, for that matter) are all the same height. Maybe how the engine was laid out made it look flopped over?
I swear I was looking -down- at the glow-plugs when I was futzing around with them, rather than across at them...
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the bellhousings are clocked diffferent, maybe the d24 is more leaned for the long runner intake to clear the hood? but if you use the wrong bellhousing your shifter ends up way out of line.
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So it's a bell-housing pattern shift, and not a pattern shift on the engine block? That would make sense, I suppose.
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that and the engine mount arms, I think mybe the turbo fouls d24 arms
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I'm no expert, but I do believe the D24(featured in the 200 series Volvo's) and the D24T(700 series) both lean approximately the same amount.
As for motor mounts, I've got a D24T is a 200 series Volvo. I am pretty sure they use different mounts for the 200s and 700s, So I must have the 200 kind. I've just got it to run (rebuild the engine) so I haven't gotten it out and driven it yet, but if the D24T can foul these mounts, I will make it happen. Just give me a few months.:wink:
Just go for the stock Volvo tranny (M46: 4spd with electric overdrive Or the M47: 5spd, a little more rare) I think that would be the simplest way to go.
-E
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Deezul ryan, did you use a Volvo tranny in your Jeep or did you use an adapter?
i used jeep tranny (ax5) that is actually a toyota trans,jeep slave cyl,jeep clutch and pilot bearing .volvo/vw flywheel bellhousing pressure plate throwout bearing and the fork that operates the throwout bearing. i made an adapter to go from the volvo bellhousing to the jeep/toyota trans
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Thanks Deezul ryan, I would like to do such a conversion in the future.
I will have to gather some more parts.
Herman
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I have a 240 and 740 with the D24 and D24T engines and the D24 engines are at different angles. I think the engine in the 740 is more upright. Does anyone have any really good pics of the 940 with the Tic intercooler setup? I would really like to see how the intercooler is mounted.
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Hey Scopefrfd,
Hows the D24T runnin'?
This is the best I've got:
(http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z290/EliMailey/d24intercooledturbo.jpg?t=1182386356)
(http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z290/EliMailey/d24tic.jpg?t=1182386395)
(http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z290/EliMailey/d24ticpic.jpg?t=1182386426)
Hope this helps, let us know how you run it. I would like to get my IC in here sometime.
Good luck
-E
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My buddy in germany picked up the Tic intercooler setup for me . So far I've received all the hoses and hard tubing. Looking closely at the D24t I was having a hard time visuallizing how it would fit. The was no way you good use the gas turbo radiator spacers that put the rad closer to the engine..not enough room between the rad and rad fan. Even with my 940 elec setup there's only an inch or two of space.
I was seriously considering going to a water to air IC..I even test fitted a setup using the N/A D24 intake manifold. I'm still undecided..I'm waiting for the factory intercooler to arrive..I didn't get the Tic intake manifold..so I have make something custom. I picked up a N/A intake from a LT truck... it looks like the d24 N/A intake except it's slightly smaller ...lower profile. Hopefully it'll work.
The car in general is running great...I'm not crazy about it being an automatic, even though the tranny matches the engine really well...I just love sticks.
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I have a 240 and 740 with the D24 and D24T engines and the D24 engines are at different angles. I think the engine in the 740 is more upright. Does anyone have any really good pics of the 940 with the Tic intercooler setup? I would really like to see how the intercooler is mounted.
I think all of the 200's had the engines tilted a little, even the gassers. Most of the 700's had them more upright. (gas or diesel) At least that's what I can remember from dealership days.... although I was more a VW fan and didn't pay much attention to the old Volvos. :P
Brendan
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Hi IROLL,
the volvo 740td is running great....I just converted the a/c to 134 and recharged. I removed the original front electric a/c fan that sits in front of the a/c condenser..I need the space for the water to air intercooler radiator. Since I'm running the electric 2 spd fan from a 940. A problem is volvo's relay uses grounds for switching the fans on. No problem with the main high speed fan switch..I use a regular vw coolant switch 190F approx. My problem was switching on the low speed fan when I use the a/c. It seems I can use the ground switch of the high pressure side...pressure rises with increased temps in the a/c, so when the refrigerant starts to get hot and I start to lose a little efficiency the switch grounds and the low speed fan comes on. It actually works much better than I thought and it only stays on when it's needed rather than most cars which run continous.
Someone posted some really nice pics of the d24tic engine....thanks! What I noticed is the tic rad looks to be much narrower than the a/c d24t's we have here in North America. Looking really closely at the d24t rad I cannot see how the intercooler piping can get by. Here in the northeast I think the factory rad we have in the volvo is probably a little overkill. My electric high speed setting really doesn't seem to run that much...with the a/c on..the low speed fan is enough to keep the coolant temps in check. If I'm not running the a/c and I come off the highway into city traffic it usually never runs for more than a minute...very powerful fan.
I was going to go h20 to air but I had to use a d24 intake and have the piping enter the intake from the firewall side of the d24 intake. I mocked it all up and it all fit...but the D24 intake is much taller than a d24t and I didn't like how close it came to the hood.
My latest idea to get this thing intercooled is to go h20 to air IC again...but this time my buddy in germany sent me a d24 intake but it's a smaller intake..sort of in between the d24 and d24t. I mocked it up and it looks like it will work if I remove the factory airbox and use a K&N air filter. I'm going to try and fit it this week sometime...need to match port the intake to the ported head.
I also added the factory 740 turbo boost gauge in the instrument cluster...I calibrated it with my vdo boost gauge. I had 3 boost gauges and 1 maxed out at 18psi, one at 20 psi, and the last at 22psi... the 22psi gauge is the one I installed along with the factory voltmeter. finally all the pods are used up. I have a egt gauge mounted just right of the ignition...to me out of all the gauges that's the one I really watch. Non-intercooled and at 20+psi going up a hill I can get a little over 1200F.
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Hey!!
Just found this site and was glad to hear others talking about the 24D.
I have a 88 Ranger short box that I installed a 24D in. It has the 4 speed volvo trans with electric overdrive. The truck was totaly dismanteled and frame sandblasted,painted. All new body panels where needed, new brakes,lines, power steering box, power brake booster, etc,etc and I made the front end flip ahead.
The engine was totaly rebilt including boring and the fuel system. I added a turbo and intercooler ( limited the boost to 16Lb).
I am geared a little slow but still getting close to 40 mi/gal imp.
I do not have the interior complete yet, but am work n on it.
I do not drive the truck in the winter time so have toyed with the idea of installing a 1.9turbo in a ranger.
If anyone has any new info on adapting to a ranger trans, I would love to hear it.
Happy Dieseling !!
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FYI: I'm not sure how stout the D24T motor is, but my dad had the 6cyl NA D24 (Audi/VW diesel motor) in a 1984 Volvo wagon. It was a complete heap of ***. He rebuilt the motor twice in a 1 year span (new pistons and all). Each time he rebuilt it, it got serious blowby wihtin months.
If you're considering the swap nonetheless, then try to find GAMBIT (user name) from Knoxville TN on tndubs.com. He's doing the 6 cyl Turbo diesel (from a 740 TD)swap into a Quantum Syncro wagon. He's measured it all up and it will work, but as noted by others in this thread, you'll have to do some cutting up front. I'm not sure how far along he is, or if he's still doing it, but that was his plan 2 months ago. He might be able to lend some advice if you're still into this.
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Nah, going the five cylinder route, 116hp TDI imported through an importer. But thanks for the tip!
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Nah, going the five cylinder route, 116hp TDI imported through an importer. But thanks for the tip!
If you're not too shy, please let us know how much it costs for the motor. I'm entertaining the idea of doing the same swap (5 cyl TD into a Quantum Syncro). I've got a lead on a motor, and about 5 leads on cars.
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Importer I'm talking to says it ranges from 1600 to 2000 for the 116hp units. Price goes up as horsepower increases.