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General Information => General => Topic started by: 935racer on August 14, 2006, 02:11:44 pm
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I would like to add a quick note for everyone here, the new mandated low sulphur fuel can be harmful to your injection pump! Please use diesel fuel additive to every tank, or about an oz of two stroke oil, this will add some lubricity to the new diesel fuel, which is lacking due to the process in which the fuel is made. Also bio diesel blends are a great way to help counter this, just keep up on your fuel filter replacements as bio tends to have more water in the fuel than standard diesel.
Just a heads up for everyone. :D
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Is this in Canada only or does this affect the US?
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Canada and the USA. You should start seeing stickers on pumps stating wether it is low sulphur or not. I know up here in Canada we are supposed to be all low sulphur for october of this year.
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yeah this *** is pure bs, they should make 2 different grades of diesel fuel, one for cars with injector pumps and one for cars with out. theres gonna be alot of people sitting along the road with pumps that took a poop...
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Down here in KC you see 2 stickers... LOW sulfur fuel (15ppm..actually its 500ppm...I had it wrong) and ULTRA LOW sulfur fuel (not for use in Pre '07 cars)
Im runnin Veg. F it
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Yeah I know it might be obvious for some of us, but theres a lot of people who don't know and will be needing to get their pump rebuilt which is big $, I am just using a little bit of two stroke oil, it works great :D
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so in other words, bad idea to goto chevron and get low sulphur diesel...fvuk, shoulda known!! good thing this is the only time :oops:
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I'll be sure to burn some more SVO to teep the lubricity up.
I also look forward to seeing some more cool diesel cars on the road.
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Any additives worth looking out for? How about cetane boosters?
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hey guys, would one tank of this stuff hurt anything? i saw the sign but wasn't sure if it would do anything... what about off road diesel, harmful to pumps or not?
Thanks
TJ
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This really makes me want to start making my own biodiesel... :P
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Any additives worth looking out for? How about cetane boosters?
Most of the cetane boosters also include lubricity boosters, which is what you really need if you're not running a biodiesel blend with the ULSD. Actually, what I've noticed on the pumps recently is a warning saying that the fuel should NOT be used in cars newer than 2007. I guess we haven't gotten the ULSD yet yere. I almost never buy diesel anyway, but occasionally I can't make it to the biodiesel place at the right time...
Zeke
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Any additives worth looking out for? How about cetane boosters?
Most of the cetane boosters also include lubricity boosters, which is what you really need if you're not running a biodiesel blend with the ULSD. Actually, what I've noticed on the pumps recently is a warning saying that the fuel should NOT be used in cars newer than 2007. I guess we haven't gotten the ULSD yet yere. I almost never buy diesel anyway, but occasionally I can't make it to the biodiesel place at the right time...
Zeke
I just saw that today when I filled up at a hess station today. I dont understand what that means. It said that it's unlawful and that it may cause engine damage? Can someone clarify this?
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If you put low sulpher diesel in a car that requires Ultra low sulpher diesel it will wreck the emissions equipment, it can't wreck the engine itself.
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I get a phone call everyday now for 1.9 AAZ pumps here at work, they are leaking on just about every car running around Ottawa now...
I had four decent cores that I tried out and all leaked with this new stuff, nasty. Hold onto your cores!
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Hmm. That may explain why Giles said he got 5 pumps in last week for overhauls and performance builds when he usually only gets a trickle.
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If you put low sulpher diesel in a car that requires Ultra low sulpher diesel it will wreck the emissions equipment, it can't wreck the engine itself.
So where do you fuel up if you've got a 07 or newer vehicle?
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So I guess the bottom line is that we should be using an additive at every fillup? I was using Stanadyne but just switched to Power Sevice. I have a 97 Golf TD with 358K and have been having no problems so far...)knock on wood...).
Jim
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I just decided to try Diesel Aid, seems to be working pretty good, my car always has full potential (unlike other times when it feels unusually gutless). I bought it at a local Western Star/Sterling shop. on little 8oz bottle treats 240ish gallons, and i put in 1/4 into a what? 12 gallon tank? :lol:
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Basically, it looks like we'll be going through the same issue with diesel's in the next few years that gas engines went through with leaded and unleaded gas back in the 70's. Two types of fuel -- the old stuff kills the catalytic converters on the new ones, and the new stuff destroyes the engines on the old ones...... :roll: And all of us driving old diesels will keep a can of lubricity booster in the trunk, just like everyone used to have a can of lead substitute in their car for years (I still have a truck that doesn't take unleaded gas, but I'm changing it to electric drive soon).
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We went though all this back in the early 90's, with the switch to low sulpher diesel. The lack of lubricity killed a few borderline pumps, mostly stanadyne and CAV rotaries. Seal shrinkage caused some leaks. The refiners added lubricity additives and the issue was mostly forgotten. Armed with this experience I would hope that the refiners would take the necessary steps to deal with the lubricity issue this time around.
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I use power service. Good stuff! Makes my car a bit accel a bit faster by boosting the cetane too.
I'm wondering about notching my gas tank filler neck for a little hose.. so I can hook up a little spray pump (the stuff stinks...) to spray before I pump the diesel. Hook up a washer pump... 1 pulse would probably do it right? :)
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It would make much more sense to have Biodiesel or a blend instead of the ULSD crap; it would solve BOTH problems! :roll: (lubricity and lower emissions) :D
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IN THEORY, the ultra low sulfur fuel should have enough lubricity - they have to meet a lubricity specification. If it doesn't meet that specification, then the station owes you an injection pump. But I don't think lubricity is the problem here...
I think what you all are seeing is seal shrinkage, due to there being less aromatics in the fuel. The issue is, those aromatics caused your seals to swell back in the day, and then crush themselves. When the aromatics go away, the seals shrink... but they're crushed, so now they don't seal. This is also the source of all of the "oh noes, biodiesel made my injection pump leak" stuff.
Fully rebuild your pump, go on with life, and don't touch low sulfur fuel once this happens.
Or, if you're really worried about it, use the old-school Cummins trick back from 1993. Automatic transmission fluid. Not sure how much to use, though. Don't go overboard, as you don't want to make it high sulfur - you're trying to bring it back to 500 ppm, from 15 ppm, not 5000 ppm from 500. ;)
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The low sulphur fuel DOES NOT have enough lubricity, one of my local fuel injection shops has been playing around with the new low sulphur fuel for a while now, the process they use to make the low sulphur fuel decreases the lubricity drastically.
ATF will work, 2 stroke oil works much better, as it is designed to MIX with fuel.
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How much 2 stroke oil should be added per liter?
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run it on straight 2 stroke oil, it's cheaper
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1 OZ to 10 gallons.
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I'm wondering about notching my gas tank filler neck for a little hose.. so I can hook up a little spray pump (the stuff stinks...) to spray before I pump the diesel. Hook up a washer pump... 1 pulse would probably do it right? :)
It stinks worse than diesel? Diesel smells bad enough. I'm used to B100, and I had to fill up a car with gasoline this week -- didn't realize what a stinky process that is. You get spoiled using biodiesel all the time. Although, most people think that biodiesel is what smells funny.
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Here's some good reading on the low sulfer diesel. Might be slightly Biased though
http://www.chevron.com/products/prodserv/fuels/diesel/
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I generally make a "slurry" 3L of canola oil mixed with 2L of your choice of aditive shaken well, then divied into smaller car-portable containers. It's been keeping my 12mm pump ticking nicely (it regularily sees beyond 4000rpm ;) )
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Sounds like that would work well. :)
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I generally make a "slurry" 3L of canola oil mixed with 2L of your choice of aditive shaken well, then divied into smaller car-portable containers. It's been keeping my 12mm pump ticking nicely (it regularily sees beyond 4000rpm ;) )
can that be used with a car still running diesel?
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Seems to be fine in my car, even in the winter, I run straight pump diesl, noconversion stuff for "vegetable oil". It is such a low percentage that you put in it is really only a lubricity additive. I'm not putting in more than 250ml/tank as an additive. (on occassion I do put a whole 3L jusg in on a whim when it goes on sale for less than the price of diesel here, but generally no more, and only that amount in the summer). I have had no coking isues etc, you just can't go overboared and decide to throw in 25L and see what happens on cold starts ;)
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the new diesel is supposedly getting lubricity and other additives, as i've read in diesel power magazine, but we can only hope....
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This is what i use everytime i fill up at the pump
http://www.ezoil.com/dieselaid.html
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I've been using AMSOIL's diesel modifier since I had Giles redo my pump. AMSOIL just overhauled their product and updated it's formula to work with Bio-diesel as well. Works great and isn't that expensive. Retails for $6.65 US.
http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/adf.aspx