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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: monst on September 23, 2021, 02:21:57 pm
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Hello,
So it is the new style seal and flange on the crank currently. see pic.... 91 jetta 1.6 NA
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/mZ0AAOSwyrBffavn/s-l300.jpg)
I have a new seal but not the whole flange.....
I was figuring on just doing the crank seal.....(talking motor side)
There was alot of leaking going on..... motor has 300k on it..... Have
had the vehicle since 140K.... clutch was fine.... just sadly contaminated by
oil leak........... which I am figuring was the crank seal........(motor oil all over the place)
Will be replacing all seals on tranny side..... input... and pushrod.... axle seals... inner and outer...
thoughts?
thanks monst
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I believe the new style of seal does a better job, reduces the tendency to fail, and reduces the tendency to wear a groove into the crankshaft. I think it's a good way to go.
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ok...
so on this motor, I have a new style that has been on there since 140k (bolt-on flange with seal).
I am going to pull the seal out of this flange and replace it...with this seal, I purchased @
https://www.partsplaceinc.com/vw-rear-main-seal-1141.html
Is this doable?
meaning that this seal I purchased can be swapped out with the old seal in the bolt-on flange?
You mentioned something regarding the old style seal had a tendancy to wear a groove in the crank.
Does this apply in this case?
thanks, Monst...
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The old style plate with separate seal allowed you to replace only the seal. The new style (that you picture at the start of this thread) does not. If you have the new style, the seal is integral to the plate and the entire plate with seal should be replaced. If you currently have the new style plate/seal, then I don't think that seal you got is going to work. The old style seals (like what you got) work alright, but they do have more of a tendency to wear a groove into the crank.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXyLd0V-pLI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXyLd0V-pLI)
Above is a link to a video where a seal is replaced on an A2/A3
I would upload a picture of mine.... but... I don't see an option when I post to do that..(there used to be one,, I think???)
The above link looks like my seal and flange set up....
Here is the Felpro equivalent: (called my local guy parts guy)(this would be considered old style?)
https://www.carparts.com/rear-main-seal/felpro/fpbs40427 (https://www.carparts.com/rear-main-seal/felpro/fpbs40427)
this parts place inc link
https://www.partsplaceinc.com/vw-rear-main-seal-1141.html (https://www.partsplaceinc.com/vw-rear-main-seal-1141.html)
would this be the cross ref for the felpro:FPBS40427??????
The integrated seal and flange technically looks the same? but the new style seal is teflon? and clearly is not removable? looks bonded?
(asking cuz I can't tell from pics)
*** So I got a pretty bad rear seal leak...... 300K....on creature..
I would like to think that if I replace the seal I should be ok...... but, Is there a possibility that
there is something else causing this leak into the clutch area?
The leak is clearly engine oil...... not tranny gear oil.......
Monst
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I feel a bit confused by this whole topic. In the initial post you say you have the new style with a picture. The picture you posted is a new style of seal that is integral with the plate and bonded to it. You say you have that style but you say your car is a '91. '91 would have come stock with the old style seal that is not integral to the flange. If you don't know which style you have then why did you post that you have the new style in the first post in this thread?
The pressure plate to crankshaft bolts can also leak. There is also an oil galley plug that could potentially leak. Oil can also leak into the bell housing from above at the cylinder head or at the valve cover while not being obvious.
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That's a good point.
The vacuum pump seal can leak and since the engine is tilted back it will run down the block
behind the clutch.
I was wonder much of the same stuff as Andrew.
Almost posted the same questions yesterday.
Why the new style on a '91?
Do you have a picture of the actual one from your car?
You'll have to find a picture hosting site like flicker or something.
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Apologies for the confusion... "my bad"
lighting issues in the shop.......Tired eyes.....
It is old style I pulled the seal today........ Crank looks ok... no grooves...
so highlighting.... the other mentioned potential leak spots.
****The pressure plate to crankshaft bolts can also leak.
***** There is also an oil galley plug that could potentially leak.
***** Oil can also leak into the bell housing from above at the cylinder head or at the valve cover while not being obvious.
**** the eacuum pump seal can leak
I was wondering....... There may have been some leaking through pressure plate bolts.....
(Is this common?????????
CUZ........ the crank had a weird looking black oil spot on it.
(even though the whole place in there looked like a big black smear)
..(very directional) almost like emanating outward from a bolt..(sooty looking squirt out)
I DID purchase new bolts...... with lock tite.on them.... Is this good enough... of should I put addition protection on the threads...
(and if so,,, what would that be?)
The oil galley plug....???? Not sure where this would be.....
I see a freeze out plug... If someone could describe the location of the oil galley plug, thanks!...
the vacuum pump seal???
Is it an O-ring? I might be able to get it from my large collection of o-rings?
On vw... the Vacuum pump runs what?? heat and defrost vents? Haven't ever had to mess with it.... Just wondering...
thanks, MOnst
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It is an o-ring.
If you see oil on the block behind the pump that could be it.
Not common for the crank to pressure plate bolt to seep.
I think the lock tite helps seal them.
Vacuum pump runs the brake booster too
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Just one bolt holding the pump in?
Sorta like a Ignition distributor is held in?
Yeah, I will just pull it...... makes sense.
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The pressure plate to crankshaft bolts do not typically leak as long as someone does not reuse them. The loctite/sealant that comes on the new ones is sufficient. If one of them does leak, then the centrifugal force will cause it to leak outward which seems to be what you describe.
The oil galley plug on the back of the block is a small plug (12mm?) near the larger "freeze plug" (it's really just a large oil plug) that is at the end of the intermediate shaft bore.
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Thanks, LD....