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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: RabbitJockey on July 26, 2006, 07:25:08 pm
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i was pissing with my car all this week, messing with fueling and stuff, and the boost gets out of hand when i have the fueling jacked up even a tad, so in order to free my waste gate i loosened it alot and ran down the road getting up to 15-17 psi with the stuck waste gate and around stock fueling, but it didn't do anything, and i really wound it out (the wastegate adjustment i mean), before i came in for the night i ran it back in. but tomorrow before i leave for work should i turn up my fueling so that i get up to 23 or more pounds of boost and then loosen the waste gate and hope it frees it? any suggestions are plenty welcome. thanks!
ps.. be careful when doing this on a hot motor
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the wastegate really bugs me
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If the boost worries you, just control the LDA line from your intake, no pressure means no extra fuel, which means NA to Eco economy with your foot in control.
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I was wondering if spraying some lube into the wastegate (remove the boost pressure hose and stick the fine nozzle in there) would help it loosen up. The only thing I would be worried about is that most lube is flammable (WD-40 etc...) The extra boost would probably help push the lube down into the shaft, and then the valve seat of the wastegate.
My only concern with this is the igniting of the lube when the turbo reaches high temperatures. Anyone know the flash point for lubes?
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I stuck an air line (mine was just a foot pump, but proper air would obviously be great) on the metal actuator pipe, and just pumped it several times luckily it freed of pretty easy and you could hear it clicking open when you pumped the air, I guess it its more stubbornly stuck you could try a bit of lubrication and/or heat....
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i'm gonna try shooting some lubricant in the boost hose and then driving it with the fuel turned up and boost getting up into the 20s and this will give it time to soak in, and if that doesn't work i'm just gonna shoot the air compressor down in the there+lube, and if that doesn't work i'll pull the down pipe off and get to work
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yea that kkk setup,they can stick,yea try the lube and air thing,and actuate it a bunch of times
still jackin with that huh?
wd or pb blaster,or liq. wrench may do the trick
if ya just throw some juice down there,and drive it and it still dont work,try it again with the external air source just sittin there
hey how about not fixing it,and just throwing in head studs instead? lol
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hey how about not fixing it,and just throwing in head studs instead? lol
Yeah thats my vote :twisted: But if you want to fix it take off the downpipe and get a 5mm allen wrench and remove the wastegate and give it a good clean.
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shot a bunch of lubricants into the actuator, and drive around, didn't seem to do anything, tomorrow i'll try shooting air into it with the air compressor and if that doesn't do it then i'll just pull the dp and do what 935 said.
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so does the waste gate open towards the exhaust side, or does open towards the intake side?
got the dp off, i can't get an allen wrench into the waste gate though
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i honestly can't see getting the waste gate off with out taking the exhaust housing off, the one allen bolt is all hidden behind the intake side of the turbo, this *** blows, i got it all apart and *** the air compressor down in it and it didn't do jack ***, and i don't really think i can get the waste gate off
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ok i got that mofo freed now, i'll be back on later when i have it all back together and i'll write what all i did
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ok so when ever i solve problems i had questions about, i always like to write what i did, even though most of it has already been said by everyone that has helped me, but i liked to post as a reference for anyone with similar problems in the future.
1. so, i took all the intake hosing off, to make room and stuffs
2. then i took off the steel line that goes from the turbo intake side, to the waste gate actuator on the back of the turbo.
3. then i took the fitting that adapts the steel lines threads to the wastegate actuators, um input hole
4. then i took my penetrant and sprayed that ish down inside of the actuator and left it settle and stuff made sure it had a good bit in there.
5. i highly suggest letting it soak for a while just like this, or even filling it a lot and then driving it with it in for a couple days(what i did) but if you do drive with it, add more after driving with it in.
6. so i pulled the down pipe off, i honestly don't know why i did this, i think it was because shooting the air compressor in the actuator wasn't doing anything for it and i thought i could get to the valve by taking it off (which you definetly cannot), but i am putting this here just in case it could help, which i highly doubt that it did anything other than add more work for me. anyways i pulled the down pipe off and shot penetrating oil down at the valve, again i dunno if i really needed to this, but i did it anyway.
7. so now that I've got everything all lubed up, i took the adjustment on the back of the actuator, you need a 10 mm deep well socket and a 3 mm allen wrench, then just loosing the 10 mm lock nut up till it's about even with the end of the adjustment screw, then wind the screw in with the allen wrench in the whole way, and you'll know when it's in the whole way cause it will get hard to turn and the spring will be making noise, i guess unwinding it and then making it tight again will probably help get it loose.
8. i got the air compressor again and started shooting air into the actuator, and then i heard this big "tink" noise, and it's very obvious when wastegate opens.
9. now that the wastegate is freed, spray more lube into the actuator and then just keep opening and closing it with the air compressor, this should help to lube it, well i suppose anyway haha)
10. ok so you've fixed the problem, so it's time to put all your ish back together, and fix any studs or bolts you snapped haha. and w/e you destroyed when you take it apart. i put teflon on the fittings for the actuator and stuff.
11. ok, then once i had it all together, i adjusted the wastegate screw out till it got really loose and i could just move with my fingers, then i turn it in till i could feel it just touched the spring, then i ran the lock nut and took her for a cruise and had 10-12 psi, just like stock. yay, now i can safely add fuel with out worrying about boost pressure.
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please don't harass my dumb instructions haha
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I pull the downpipe off just so theres more room to get my arms back there for getting those 5mm allens that hold the wastegate down, but these days I just pull the whole turbo off and get them rebuilt...
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I pull the downpipe off just so theres more room to get my arms back there for getting those 5mm allens that hold the wastegate down, but these days I just pull the whole turbo off and get them rebuilt...
how do you get the waste gate off? it looked like a major pita for me to do it, but like you said, a rebuild never hurt a turbo haha, mine seems to be in good shape, although the compressor side has some damage to the wheel(and probably the inside of the housing, knows) but i just noticed shaft play for the first time perviously it was solid, but i could feel just barely move up and down, it also seems a tiny bit stick, like it will spin freely, but if i spin it, it will decelerate pretty quick, probably a little gunked up, but i've never felt any other turbo to know how much it should spin after i do that, so maybe i will order one of those rebuild kits from the one member on here down the road, and put a k26 compressor side on my turbo haha.
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I have done the k26 compressor side, its alright, nothin special though, I would likely just rebuild the stock one, Get one of jakes rebuild kits and than take it to a turbo rebuild shop, don't do it yourself unless you have a balancer accurate to a thousandth of a gram, while sometimes you can get away without a balance its rare, and a turbo shop knows the stuff that needs to be address plus they usually polish the shaft and stuff.
Do it once, do it right.
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but first i gotta beat this turbo to all hell, you know to make sure it really needs a rebuild, so i have money well spent haha.
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also, i gotta thank everyone like 935 racer and um fspgtd, malone, hill folk, and like loads of people on this forum, you guys put alot of time into writing stuff up and taking all the pictures, i seems like you guys don't get enough appreciation, but i gotta say it definetly helps when you guys post up info and how tos and suggestions and all that goodness.
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Hey no worries bro, diesel love forever 8)
Ps I am pretty sure we all like hearing compliments, so thankyou, its nice to get credit sometimes especially for some people like me, I am terribly dyslexic, and it takes me forever to type! But I love the diesel community and if I wasnt so busy I would just answer peoples questions all day.
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haha i love dieseling too, always cool talking to the guy at the pump with the power strokes and cummins, and talking about what makes them run good and all that, and then there are the guys that are always curious about my car wondering if it's a diesel, and then when i tell them my mileage they wanna buy it haha
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sob, it got stuck again :^(
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man,it must be pretty crusty to keep hangin like that, it needs to be worked :roll:
or ya know its a pita takin it apart to clean and stuff(thumbdown) :wink:
ya may have to end up doin it though
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i know, i'll try lubing+ air compressor one more time, and really really get at it, then drive it alot after wards, and hopefully that will do it, if that doesn't free it i will have to bite the damn bullet
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sorry to bring this back from the grave..
today i lost boost. before i will reach 1.3/1.4 bar at redline but now i only have 0.5 at redline and very slow build...
could the WG be stucked open with the adjustment bolt all the way in?
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if it's jammed enough, but since you had high boost and now you don't i would suspect and exhaust leak
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actually theres no way of telling, it could be an exhaust or intake leak
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all i do was replace a valve cover seal and readjuste all the hoses and to make sure wg adjustment was tight i uncrew it a bit and then toque it all the way in like it was before.
no leaks on i.c. tubing, did the broomstick and bolt trick on the blow off valve and i see no pressure.
today morning i would hit 1 bar and then it would drop a little.i usually was doing more than 1 bar ... :roll:
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thats where having an exhaust pressure gauge would be nice... andy2 has one :)
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Correction two :twisted:
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any way to look at without major work?
were are the spots that potencialy could leak?
if there was a exhaust leak wouldnt the exhaust sound louder? :idea:
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you might not hear the louder exhaust over the engine... i nearly wake up my family when starting my motor :lol:
my exhaust downpipe used to leak on be badly... couldn't notice it at first, but when i went to wipe the inside of the windshield one day it became all black... :shock: no wonder i was feeling 'light headed' on long trips!!!!!!!!!!! :lol:
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the flexpipe on mydownpipe was completely in half and i couldn't tell except for the gurgling when i let off and the soot on my windsheild. im gonna die from black lung like the old steam locomotive conductors did from the coal soot hahah, ive fixed it due to the annoying clean my soot tinted windsheild before driving routine
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solved...
it was the intercooler.
one of the sides didnt hold up... :roll:
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solved...
it was the intercooler.
one of the sides didnt hold up... :roll:
hahahahaha oh man.... don't ya just love easy fixes??? makes you feel a bit dumbfounded when you realize how simple the problem really is...
i didn't even know you had an intercooler... :lol:
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daimler chrisler front mount.
tryed to fixed it but lets see if it holds... :roll:
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the flexpipe on mydownpipe was completely in half and i couldn't tell except for the gurgling when i let off and the soot on my windsheild. im gonna die from black lung like the old steam locomotive conductors did from the coal soot hahah, ive fixed it due to the annoying clean my soot tinted windsheild before driving routine
me too,i cut out my raintray
the windshield fogs up if i go thru a puddle when its raining from the steam comin off the engine
i can smell diesel smoke when i floor it at low rpms and let it smoke bad
im planning on making a duct to the heater inlet plumbed from a hole in the left inner fender well,between the fender+door gap
someone said it may not be a good idea to get air from the fender well area (yucky brake dust),i agree
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hahah or leave it!! i actually like the smell now, just the damn mess, everything in my car was covered, my numbers on my tach and speedo are blacker and i had to pull my dash out for some soldering and all the what was white plastic was covered in soot!! i should get some pics of the multiple layers of soot on my windsheild!! my friends always enjoyed drawing obscene objects in the soot on the side windows. nothing better than going out to your car later and notice you have been driving around town with penises drawn on the rear windows :oops:
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crappy picture but you can see the i.c. end coming out...
(http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/3431/icgtd12qh.jpg)