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General Information => Troubleshooting => Topic started by: burn_your_money on June 22, 2006, 05:01:02 pm
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I just bought a 92 TD (not eco diesel) and I was told that the engine had ranaway on the highway. The owner was able to stall the car so excessive damge to the engine is unlikely right?
What are the reasons for the runaway engine? There's bad rings, bad turbo seals, bad valves and crankcase blowby that I can think of. Anything else? How can I test to see what actually happened to the engine?
If I do a compression test I need new heatsheilds right?
Any help is apprecaited.
I haven't tried starting the engine myself for fear of it taking off and crashing into my house. It is a 5 speed though.
Thanks
Tyler
Here's a picture of the engine for what it's worth
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/burnyourmoney/299a485b.jpg)
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It is doubtful, but if the previous owner adjusted the fuel screw too high or set the lever assembly incorrectly they could cause the engine to run away. If the fuel is set too high then it can cause the engine to hang or run away even though it seems fine at first. And yes, you will need new heat sheilds if you do a compression test.
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What exactly is the lever assmebly?
Can I use my mk1 diesel bentley (it has TD) for reference? I lost my mk2 one somewhere.
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By lever assembly I was referring to the linkage that the throttle cable is connected to. It has the nut on top which tightens it down onto the splined shaft going into the injection pump. If it were off a tooth or two it could cause some bad things to happen. It isn't all that likely as most people would be terrified to take the pump apart but it isn't out of the realm of possabilities. Your MK1 bentley would be good for most of the engine specs and whatnot but there were some smaller differences on the mk2's which might trip you up.
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Any where it can get fuel or oil. My 97 Passat TDI was filled with twice the amount of oil due to a faulty oil pump thing (right) at the dealer. My son picked it up and had enough sence to pull over and leave it in 5th gear tilled it killed the engine. It was the excess oil that it was using for fuel. Dealer came right away and took care of it.
When I worked on BIG trucks, GMC-Peterbuilt dealer, we had to leave them in highgear so if they started up in the middle of the night hope fully the tranny in high gear and the air brakes locked would stop it. Some air brakes leak down and we had a truck run throuht a wall in the shop. they left it in a lower gear.
Leaky turbo, supercharger and other things could allow it to run.. Now before you think I am crazy, I can not prove how they start by them selves but they do. Guess it leakes in a cylinder on the compression stroke.
Richard
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what about the cam shield? is it still there,and some yoyo didnt take it out? just pop the oil filler cap and make sure you CANT see the cam,because of the shield ,it may be tired,do the comp check and stuff,but a leakdown test is better :idea: everyone pulls off the inlet pipe to the turbo,see all the oil,and go dude my turbo is shot..no it is not,its the crankcase fumes oiling stuffup nice for you,i mean the turbo can go,but you will probably have a smoker(blue)heh in our shop when we pull in a "smoker" we say: hey look, there s nothin wrong its just havin a marlboro!!
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I just went out and started the car. It took alot of cranking but I beleive that was due to excessive air in the fuel lines. It ran like crap for the first couple of minutes then it idled right at 900 with the cold start lever pulled out. When I pushed it in the idle dropped to 700 and it ran quite rough. It probably wasn't heated up enough.
From the engine bay I heard either a grinding or a rattling noise. I tried to disconnect the accesory belts to see if it was the AC or PS but I couldn't get the bolts lose so they are soaking right now.
The exhaust was pretty blue so I'm guessing it's burning oil from somewhere.
Any advice on what I should do next?
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as far as i know it could be the turbo oil seal also leaking oil in
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I thought about that so I removed the hose that connects the turbo from the intake and started up the car. The only differance was there was about 10X more white smoke coming out of the tailpipe and it actually smelt like diesel, instead of just smelling terrible.
I can also hear that the timing is off a bit (clacking), could this be causing the white smoke?
The inside of the turbo was covered in oil, it literally ran out of the house when I removed it. Not piles but more then I was expecting
Here's a couple of pictures
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/burnyourmoney/95d694e1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/burnyourmoney/1af85d5c.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/burnyourmoney/8faa92ae.jpg)
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I had a look at the air filter today and it looked brand new so I didn't bother replacing it. I will set up the catch can next and see what happens, I'll have to get the stupid belts back on first so I don't overheat it. AC and PS, what a waste of an invention, those will be getting swapped out
Starting the car was actually pretty easy, but I will replace the glows before the cold winter sets in.
The oil return line is not the one that connects to the pan correct? And I would just remove it and run some gs through it, then let it dry out before re-intalling?
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Go ahead and remove your power steering, you'll regret it. Ask me how I know.
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hey next time leave the cold start lever out longer,if ya push it in too soon,itll run rough etc,like ya said,so wait a little longer before pushing it in......
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Go ahead and remove your power steering, you'll regret it. Ask me how I know.
I'd like to know how.
Currently I'm not driving this car as I just bought it. I am trying to decide if it's worth fixing the engine or if I should just part it out.
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I talked to the guy I bought the car off of and he said that he had brought it to the shop and they confirmed that the rings were bad so I decided to part it out. I stripped the engine down so if anyone needs anything just ask. I'll make an official FS post later on in the week
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Ontario
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I know how because I have an A2 Jetta that myself and my father ran without power steering for 2 years. I just now put the power steering back together. The steering on the A2's is very difficult w/out power steering. For the small amount of power it requires to run the pump, it is DEFINITLEY worth it.
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My pump is shot and I don't feel like buying a new one. I might swap the whole rack over, but I doubt it. If I hate it too much I'll get a pump
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The steering on the A2's is very difficult w/out power steering.
Interesting. Was this with a disconnected power steering rack, or the manual rack? If it was the manual rack, do you remember if that A2 was running wide tires or something? I have manual steering in my Fox, which I bet is at least as heavy as an A2 Jetta, and there doesn't seem to be too much steering effort with 175 wide tires (as long as I keep them at 35psi ;) ).
I want to trade in the Fox for an A2, but don't want PS...
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i myself would prefer to not have power steering. One more thing to break, and it robs engine HP :(
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I just prefer to feel what my car is doing. If I want to float in a bubble down the road, I'd buy a Camry. :roll:
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Another thing to hate about A2 power steering is that the pump is down there in the muck zone just above the road, the belts get trashed fast if you drive on dirty roads. I am just used to the sound of my belt screaming when I park now. But having the belt start slipping as your diving for the apex of a hairpin isnt something you get used to. :shock:
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I'm having some oil issues on my 1.6 TD as well. It seems to use WAY more oil than it should and it blows bluish smoke if the car has idled for a while or when accelerating briskly (not black smoke).
Engine seems to run fine (PO claims it was rebuilt 40k miles ago), has good power, but I haven't been able to do a compression test just yet.
One thing I noticed is that it doesn't have the circular vent / separator at the top of the valve cover like the one in the photo on the first page. Could more fumes than normal be making their way in through the turbo through there?
There's just a hose going from the valve cover to the intake (pre-turbo)...
What's the function of this device? Is it a filter or does it separate fumes / droplets as well? I'll need to get one.
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Thanks! Is that a stealership only item? Do they "wear out" or get clogged or could I snag a used one somewhere?
The gas digifant engines had them on there as well. I wonder if they're the same...
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:?: Do Quantae/Audi get runaway? or is it confined to the transverse group? :?:
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:?: Do Quantae/Audi get runaway? or is it confined to the transverse group? :?:
I would think that the engine orientation wouldn't matter. However, if they have a better-designed intake manifold, then they might be less likely to runaway. In fact (it's been a long time since I've seen a 1.5D intake manifold), but I believe the 1.5D manifold is a different style than the 1.6D. I think they made some changes to the 1.6D manifold to make it a little less likely to runaway.
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Moved to troubleshooting. IDI engine is for power enhancement related discussion only.